Introducing The Panerai Submersible Azzurro 42MM Limited Edition

Introducing The Panerai Submersible Azzurro 42MM Limited Edition

I like Panerai’s decision to break out the Submersible line as its own collection. You’ll notice that these are no longer Luminor Submersibles. For one thing, there are enough variations, complications, and limited editions within the Submersible range to justify its existence as a separate pillar of Panerai; and for another, it’s a legitimate tool watch in a way that some other recent Panerai introductions aren’t – the 30-meter-rated Luminor Due models, for example. From what I’ve observed, the Luminor Due has carved out a successful niche while bringing the Panerai aesthetic to a whole new form factor and consumers who wanted a sub-40mm Panerai. In addition to being a legitimate design object in the way that I think the Luminor and the Radiomir are, the Submersible is a tough and ready tool watch for divers, and with the new taxonomy, there’s no mistaking that.

2020, The Watch Year in Review: 10 Dynamic Dive Watches

It goes without saying: 2020 was far from an ideal year for most of us. Looking back, however, it was also a year that brought many noteworthy watch launches despite the huge obstacles posed by the pandemic and its effects on the world economy. As we look ahead hopefully to 2021, it’s time for our annual look back at some of those timepieces, in various popular categories. Today, we showcase 2020’s most interesting dive watches.

Bell & Ross’s BR 03-92, its first divers’ watch fashioned in the familiar, square-shaped “Instrument” case, debuted in a new orange-dialed model that was offered exclusively in Bell & Ross boutiques and e-boutiques. Its squared ergonomic case, made of satin-polished steel, is 42 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 300 meters. Its “circle-in-a-square” design features a 60-minute unidirectional bezel with a luminescent dot at 12 o’clock for orientation. The painted orange dial, with luminous indices and hour markers, represents the color of maritime safety, used for the suits of rescue divers. Inside the case, a soft-iron inner cage protects the movement — the automatic BR-Cal.302, based on the Sellita SW 300.1 — from the effects of magnetic fields. More details and price here.

Bell & Ross BR 03 Diver Orange

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day-Date Desert Edition, limited to 500 pieces, features a new, sandy beige dial inspired by the desert sands of Death Valley, California, where Ernest H. Brooks II, a pioneer of underwater photography, made a famous dive into the underwater chasm known as Devil’s Hole in 1962. Its 43-mm case is made of satin-brushed steel and the dive-scale insert on its unidirectional bezel is made of brown ceramic. The dial’s bold Arabic numerals and markers and blocky syringe hands duplicate those from a classic 1970s model. The 300-meter water-resistant case houses Blancpain’s manufacture Caliber 1315DD, whose notable attributes include a five-day (120-hour) power reserve. Click here for more details.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Desert

The Breitling Superocean Heritage Automatic 42 ’57 Limited Edition II followed up its sold-out, black-dialed predecessor with a dial and a bidirectional rotating bezel in maritime blue ceramic. Remaining from the popular first edition are the rainbow-inspired design elements — color highlights at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock hour markers and graduated, multicolored Super-LumiNova coating on the hour and minute hands in shades of green, blue, indigo, violet, red, and orange. The 42-mm steel case houses the self-winding Breitling Caliber 10, based on the ETA 2892-A2 and amassing a power reserve of 42 hours. The solid caseback is engraved with ‘ONE OF 1,000″ and proceeds from sales of the watch go to charities supporting workers on the frontlines of the battle against COVID-19. More details here.

Breitling Superocean Heritage 57

This year, Britain’s Christopher Ward became the first watchmaker to revive the so-called Super Compressor case, a popular style dormant since the 1970s. For its C65 Super Compressor model, Christopher Ward “reverse engineered” the original design by Ervin Piquerrez to create the barrel-shaped case equipped with the built-in 300-micron-thick compression spring that gives the design its name. Measuring 41 mm in stainless steel, the case has two screw-down crowns on the side — one for winding and setting the time, the other for setting dive times on the inner bezel, which rotates with 120 distinctive clicks. Inside the 150-meter water-resistant case, a Swiss-made Sellita SW200 automatic caliber beats at a brisk 28,800-vph frequency and amasses a power reserve of 38 hours. Click here for more details, history, and photos.

Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor

The Doxa SUB 300 Aqua Lung US Divers bridges the historical design of the SUB 300, introduced in 1967, with an innovative and very contemporary case material and color scheme. The barrel-shaped 42.5-mm case is made of ultra-light, extra-durable forged carbon and has a screw-down for a 300-meter water resistance. The unidirectional rotating bezel sports both an inner 60-minute scale and outer “air dive table” to assist in timing no-decompression dives. Under the box-shaped sapphire crystal, Doxa’s “Sharkhunter Carbon” dial has applied markers for each hour, a white minute ring, a 3 o’clock date window, and a large yellow minute hand. Behind the solid caseback beats the chronometer-certified ETA 2824-2 with a 42-hour power reserve. Find out more by clicking here.

Doxa SUB300 Diver US Navy

Inspired by, and dedicated to, the plight of the Hangang River in South Korea, the Oris Hangang Limited Edition features a 43.5-mm stainless steel case water-resistant to a professional-grade 300 meters. Its unidirectional dive-scale bezel has a green ceramic insert, reflecting the bright, gradient green tones of the dial — colors inspired, Oris says, by the waters at the source of the Hangang, South Korea’s second longest but most important river, which is now threatened by years of neglect and pollution. The back of the watch, which hails from Oris’s Aquis family, has an engraved map depicting the river’s path through South Korea. Behind that caseback, the automatic, Sellita-based Oris 743 offers 38 hours of power, a quick date corrector, and a stop-seconds function. Click here for more.

Oris Hangang Limited Edition

The “Azzurro” in the Panerai Submersible Azzuro – 42 MM refers to the matte blue ceramic ring, with graduated dive scale, which is fitted into the unidirectional ratcheting bezel (“Azzurro” is Italian for “light blue”). Its steel cushion-shaped case has a satin-brushed finish and its 300-meter water resistance is ensured by the familiar (and trademarked) locking crown protector device on the right side of the case as well as by the screw-down steel caseback. Continuing the “Azzurro” theme, evocative of both the ocean and the unofficial color of unified Italy, the lume on the hands and indices glows in a bright green-blue. Powering the watch is the automatic manufacture Caliber P.900, with 23 jewels, a 28,800-vph frequency, and a power reserve of three days in a single barrel. More details and price here.

Panerai Submersible Azzuro – 42MM

What’s “new” about the 2020 Rolex Submariners? As is typical of Rolex, the differences are subtle to the naked eye but oh-so-significant to avid collectors. The case dimensions have been bumped up slightly to 41 mm from the previous models’ 40 mm (just 2 mm smaller than the revamped Sea-Dweller). The Oyster bracelet has been “remodelled” with a patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp and Glidelock extension, which can add or subtract up to 20 mm of bracelet length in 2-mm adjustments. The dateless version of the Submariner is now equipped with a new in-house movement, Caliber 3230, while the Date models (Ref. 126610LV, with mega-popular green bezel pictured) contain the existing Caliber 3235, introduced in the 2017 revamp of the Sea-Dweller and used subsequently in the Yacht-Master. Much more detail and other versions of the watch can be found here.

Rolex Submariner Date

Seiko’s U.S.-exclusive trio of Prospex Ice Diver models take their colorway cues from the colors of natural light reflecting off glacial ice — and by extension from Seiko dive watches’ history as the watch of choice for the Japanese Antarctic Research Expedition team since the 1960s. Their wearers include Yuichiro Miura, the oldest man to scale Mt. Everest in 1970; Naomi Uemura, the first person to complete a solo dog-sled run to the North Pole in 1978; and many others. The 44-mm “Sumo” case is in polished and brushed steel, with a thick screw-down crown at 4 o’clock and a matching steel triple-link bracelet with a diver’s extension. Lume-filled indexes occupy each hour marker except at 3 o’clock, where a date window, is highlighted via a magnifying “Cyclops” lens. Seiko’s automatic Caliber 6R35, with a 70-hour power reserve, ticks behind a solid caseback. Click here to discover more detail and other versions.

Seiko Prospex Ice Diver Blue

The latest watch from maritime-focused Ulysse Nardin represents not only the brand’s most aggressive effort yet in combating marine pollution, but also a true first in the watch industry: the Diver Net features an entire case — middle, back, and bezel insert — constructed from recycled fishing nets recovered from the oceans. The strap is also “upcycled,” made from sea-polluting PET plastic pressed into threads, and the crystal, made from transparent ceramic glass rather than sapphire, also represents an environmentally friendly upgrade, as it uses less energy to produce. Distinguishing this unique version of Ulysse Nardin’s Diver model (still a concept piece, though a commercial version has been teased) are the white-and-gray dial with white “UN” lettering as its background motif, and its numerous details in green. It’s powered by Ulysse Nardin’s Caliber 118, the in-house movement that powers many nautical-themed Ulysse Nardin watches. Click here for more background on the Diver Net’s creation.

November 2020: What’s New In Watches

Hublot has launched two limited editions of 20 pieces each from its iconic Big Bang collection to commemorate Ferrari’s milestone participation in Formula One. To celebrate Ferrari’s 1,000th Grand Prix, a milestone in Formula One’s 70th anniversary year, the Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP comes in white gold or carbon ceramic. An openworked dial gives us a sneak peek at the HUB1243 automatic movement.

The TravelTec model has been around, in various iterations, for 15 years and its triple time-zone complication has become a staple in Carl F Bucherer’s line-up. Wear yours with a rubber strap.

Four new dial colours have been introduced to Carl F Bucherer ’s TravelTec series, with each representing a different season: green for spring, yellow for summer, orange for autumn and blue for winter.

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3 /15 MB&F + L’Epée 1839

TriPod by MB&F + L’Epée 1839 (Photo: Alex Teuscher)

The second “Robocreature”—half robot, half animal—designed by MB&F in collaboration with L’Epée 1839, a Swiss manufacture that specialises in making high-end clocks, the TriPod takes the power of three principle very seriously. The clock’s dial shows the time in three consecutive 12-hour scales and is suspended between three insect-like legs. Is it creepy? Is it cool? Heck, why can’t it be both? “In the same way that H R Giger created his Alien universe, we’re creating our own world of creatures,” says MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser.

4 /15 Franck Muller

Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton by Franck Muller (Photo: Courtesy of Franck Muller)

For the first time, Franck Muller has housed its Revolution 3 triple-axis tourbillon movement in its signature Vanguard case. Known for complex complications, Franck Muller launched the world’s first tri-axial tourbillon in 2004. Designed to reduce the impact of gravity on the watch’s movement regardless of its position, it’s more effective than the classic tourbillon, which only protects the watch when it’s in a vertical position.

5 /15 Panerai

Submersible Azzurro 42 mm PAM01209 by Panerai (Photo: Courtesy of Panerai)

One of the most robust collections Panerai makes today, the Submersible welcomes a new limited edition to its ranks, complete with a black dial and blue ceramic bezel insert. This highly water-resistant dive watch comes with large luminous indexes for added visibility and, as expected, the stainless-steel Submersible Azzurro—Italian for light blue—stays true to the collection’s nautical aesthetic.

6 /15 Ulysse Nardin

Blue Blast by Ulysse Nardin (Photo: Courtesy of Ulysse Nardin)

Available in four different variations, Ulysse Nardin’s latest release comes in a sturdy 45 mm case that houses an openworked automatic tourbillon with three days of power reserve. Powered by the new in-house UN-172 automatic winding movement, Blast is convenient as well as handsome.

7 /15 Rolex

Oyster Perpetual 41 mm by Rolex (Photo: Courtesy of Rolex)

Rolex has reimagined one of its most recognisable collections. The Oyster Perpetual 36 series will now be available with candy pink, yellow, green, coral red and turquoise dials. And for those who aren’t into bright colours, the Swiss watchmaker has introduced a larger 41 mm model with a traditional silver dial. See also: The Rolex Watch That Made Sean Connery

8 /15 Breguet

Tradition Quantième Rétrograde Ref 7597 by Breguet (Photo: Courtesy of Breguet) No 2292 pocket watch by Breguet (Photo: Courtesy of Breguet)

Breguet continues to pay tribute to its exquisite heritage pocket watches with the launch of its Tradition Quantième Rétrograde Ref 7597. The bridges, wheels, escapement and barrel have all been placed on top of the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde’s baseplate, so all of its inner workings can be admired from the dial rather than the caseback. When flipped over, it reveals the watch’s central rotor, which is beautifully shaped like the winding mass found on early pocket watches.

9 /15 Omega

Nekton deploys some of the world’s most advanced deep-diving submersibles (Photo: Courtesy of Omega)

Omega’s new edition of its Seamaster Diver 300M has been released in support of the Nekton foundation, a leading nonprofit association that’s committed to protecting the world’s oceans by accelerating scientific exploration. Available with either an integrated steel bracelet or a black rubber strap, an all-black ceramic dial gives this watch a modern and moody look. Inspect the caseback to see a special engraving that celebrates Omega’s partnership with Nekton. See also: Omega’s 2020 Line-Up Is A Legacy Of Horological Quality And Innovation

10 /15 Tudor

Black Bay P01 by Tudor (Photo: Courtesy of Tudor)

If you’re into vintage watches, look no further than the Black Bay P01. Inspired by a prototype from the 1960s that was designed for the American navy, this timepiece by Tudor celebrates the brand’s maritime heritage. See also: Collector Zoe Abelson Is Proof That Vintage Watches Will Never Go Out Of Style

11 /15 Jaquet Droz

Petite Heure Minute Relief Dragon by Jaquet Droz (Photo: Courtesy of Jaquet Droz)

Jaquet Droz has unveiled an extraordinary interpretation of the Earth Dragon, the fifth element in the 60-year cycle of the traditional Chinese calendar. Limited to eight pieces worldwide, this watch comes with a dial carved from jasper, which was cut, softened and polished by hand. A smaller off-centre dial at 12 o’clock in black onyx features two red gold hands, and perfectly pops against various shades of brown and burgundy.

12 /15 Chopard

Liang Bo wears the Alpine Eagle by Chopard (Photo: Courtesy of Chopard)

Following the Alpine Eagle’s cameo appearance in the popular South Korean drama Crash Landing on You, Chopard has tapped into the influential Asian market and tasked Chinese singer Liang Bo with bringing its most elegant collection to life. One of China’s leading musicians, Bo is hoping to strike a chord with watch collectors everywhere, and has already been photographed wearing his ultra-resistant steel piece. See also: Chopard Watches Steal The Show In “Crash Landing On You”

13 /15 Montblanc

Taron Egerton wears an 1858 Geosphere by Montblanc (Photo: Courtesy of Montblanc)

In a new campaign by Montblanc, What Moves You, Makes You, Golden Globe-winning actor Taron Egerton, who starred in the Elton John biopic Rocketman (2019), is photographed wearing the brand’s1858 Geosphere. “Acting is about play, you know?” Egerton says about his profession. “It’s exactly the same as when you’re a kid and you’re holding an action figure or toy car or a set of cups and pretending to have a tea party. It’s all imagination and you’re performing a part. It’s just a little bit more sophisticated now than it was then.”

14 /15 Audemars Piguet

Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph by Audemars Piguet (Photo: Courtesy of Audemars Piguet)

Audemars Piguet has added to its line of highly engineered ceramic chronographs. Harder than steel, ceramic withstands super-high temperatures, thermal shocks and scratches. Tatler recommends the watchmaker’s fierce Royal Oak Offshore, which now comes in numerous colours that are elevated by Méga Tapisserie dials and robust rubber straps. The classic blue and green models come in stainless steel, but this brown model comes with a distinctive pink gold case that beautifully complements the bezel’s brown ceramic, which is used for the very first time by Audemars Piguet. See also: Hong Kong Professional Golfer Tiffany Chan Dares To Dream Big

15 /15 Patek Philippe

Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref 5303R-001 by Patek Philippe (Photo: Courtesy of Patek Philippe)