Watch Spotting Dave Chappelle Wearing The Apple Watch Black Unity Limited Edition

Watch Spotting Dave Chappelle Wearing The Apple Watch Black Unity Limited Edition

According to Apple, that strap is inspired by the Pan-African flag and made from a high-performance material called fluoroelastomer. The pin-and-tuck closure is laser-etched “Truth. Power. Solidarity.” The aluminum case is fashioned from 100 percent recycled aerospace-grade alloy. Even the caseback gets the laser engraved treatment, reading “Black Unity.” There is also a Black Unity watch face available to everyone with the latest watchOS – even if you don’t have the special Black Unity hardware.

手錶、腕錶，是生活的出口！為何執行長喜歡收藏？

「玩錶，能讓我暫時拋開公事，得到休息和調劑」6 年前，麥肯廣告公司執行長張志浩接受《經理人》專訪。愛好收藏錶的他，從一支支的腕錶，學到了許多事 »

現在回想起來，其實我小時候就滿喜歡錶。我還記得國小六年級時，我父親送我一支鐵達時的機械錶，這是我生平第一支錶，我覺得手錶很有趣，想知道錶為什麼會自動運轉，就把錶拆開來看內部的構造，結果把錶弄壞了，我還偷偷拿去錶店修理。但我對錶的興趣，大概那時候就開始種下了。

不過，以前我買錶並沒有想太多，通常覺得好看、好戴就好。一直到了十幾年前，我開始想買好一點的機械錶，但當時我喜歡的萬國錶公司 IWC（International Watch Co）馬克系列手錶，我捨不得買。後來我太太知道了，剛好我公司有一個案子，抽獎贈品就是 IWC 的錶，公司就訂了十幾支，我太太就偷偷打電話給我下面的承辦人，請他下訂單的時候多買一支。等到我生日那天，拿出來做我的生日禮物，讓我覺得很驚喜。

IWC IWC 馬克系列手錶

玩錶的人都知道，有了第一支後，就會踏上不歸路。因為太太送的這支錶，我逐漸發現錶的有趣之處，開始想買第二支、第三支……，隨著了解愈來愈深入，就這樣一步步踏入手錶的世界。

拆錶、爬資料，對錶的欣賞從「外在」轉為「內在」

後來我才知道，機械錶的原理，其實在 200 年前就已經發展出來。像錶迷熟知的陀飛輪、萬年曆、計時碼錶等複雜功能，都是百年前就已經有了。我就覺得機械錶實在很厲害，只用一個發條輪，就產生這麼大的力量，去推動複雜的齒輪結構，並且準確的計時，就會很想知道其中的原理。

我喜歡自己去吸收、去了解手錶的相關知識。我開始玩錶後，就訂了很多雜誌來看，也買了一些鐘錶拍賣公司的目錄來研究。平常我也很喜歡上網搜尋錶的資訊，所以我電腦裡頭網路瀏覽器的「我的最愛」，幾乎都是有關錶的網站。

我也買了一些拆修錶的工具，以前玩錶的時候，我會把便宜的錶拆開來研究。但現在買的錶比較貴，我就不敢拆了，不過我還是會自己清理保養手錶，或是換換錶帶，讓錶看起來有不同的風貌。

平常有空時，我就會用放大鏡來看我的手錶，欣賞這些錶的設計和結構。像我有一支古董錶，每次看到它的指針，我就覺得那個年代的工藝真是沒話說，連指針都是用手工一步步地做出每一個細節，真的非常漂亮。

我以前買錶，喜歡買有複雜功能的錶，因為這樣看起來比較炫。但後來我漸漸「返璞歸真」，更重視錶的內在。例如勞力士（Rolex）的設計 5、60 年都不變，但錶的內部功能則是一直在改進。所以有些人覺得勞力士很「俗」，但其實勞力士每支錶的設計都非常經典，令人百看不膩。

ROLEX ROLEX 手錶工藝與設計

以前我的錶常在轉手，但後來我覺得有些錶雖然有名，但並不符合我個人的需求和興趣，現在我就只鎖定幾個比較喜歡的品牌來研究。

了解每支錶的故事，深挖歷史、發掘興趣

除了去錶店看錶之外，以前我還常在網路上買賣錶，如果有人有興趣，就約在某個地點，然後兩個人交貨、看貨，再去提款機領錢付錢，我常開玩笑說，整個過程好像是在販毒一樣。我還曾跟別人約在桃園交流道交易，不過，後來我覺得網路交易有點麻煩，有時也怕買到狀況不好的錶，後來就很少在網路上買賣錶了。

雖然以前買賣手錶的頻率還滿高的，但現在我要賣錶就愈來愈難決定，因為留下來的錶都已經有感情了，尤其如果是二手錶或古董錶，有的錶就算去找、去等，也不見得買得到，所以每一支買到的錶，其實都是一種緣分。

像我有支勞力士的 Daytona 錶，就是在一個難得的機會下到手的。Daytona 是全世界最搶手的錶，有錢也不一定買得到，但有一天我去逛錶店，正好看到有人進來賣了一支給老闆，等那個人離開錶店，我馬上跟老闆說：「老闆，這支給我，我要了。」我後面的人還大呼可惜，說怎麼給你搶走了。像這樣的錶，我就捨不得賣，因為我會覺得和這支錶有緣，這真的是強求不來。

ROLEX ROLEX Daytona 系列手錶

我想，像我們這種愛錶的人，買錶不是因為多有錢，我們是在能力允許的範圍內，去買自己喜歡的錶，而不是只追逐名貴的手錶。當我買了一支錶之後，我就會去看它的機型是什麼，研究這支錶好在哪裡、演進的歷史是什麼？所以我的每個錶都有它的故事，都有它的趣味在裡頭。

手錶，是生活的出口、一種休息與調劑

我覺得錶是拿來戴的，不是像某些有錢人是買來擺好看的，所以我的手錶現在都維持在 11 支，1 支戴在手上，其他的就收在錶盒裡。每天我都會打開錶盒，想一想明天會是什麼心情、明天會有什麼場合，然後選一支適合明天氣氛的錶來戴。

對我來說，手錶就好像是一個生活的出口。我唯一可以讓腦袋不去想公事的時候，就是把自己丟到錶的世界裡頭，無論是看雜誌、上網站，或是欣賞錶、把玩錶，都可以讓我暫時拋開繁瑣的公事，在精神上得到休息和調劑。

在收藏手錶的過程中，我也體會到一件事，就是凡事無須強求。以前我如果看到中意的錶但沒買到，就會捶胸頓足好一陣子，但後來經歷愈來愈豐富，我就不會再因為這樣的事而煩惱、沮喪，因為該來的就會出現，該你的就是你的。

後來我發現，在工作上我也變得比較豁達。比如我們在比稿、搶案子、或是做決策，事前必須全神貫注，投入最大的努力。但如果案子最後沒有拿到，我也會坦然地面對，下一次有機會再努力。如果可以這樣想，就不會讓得失心一直影響自己。

攝影 / 侯俊偉 麥肯廣告公司執行長、前奧美互動行銷公司董事總經理張志浩

你也想瞭解手錶嗎？張志浩的私房推薦

專業手錶資訊網站，首頁有手錶的最新報導，並有討論區可提問和回答有關手錶的問題。網站內還有手錶品牌、手錶相關術語等介紹。

台灣知名古董鐘錶店「王永昌鐘錶」的網站。網站上有店內古董鐘錶或二手錶商品的詳細資訊，也有鐘錶知識的專題介紹。

全球最大鐘錶拍賣公司安帝古倫（Antiquorum）的網站。網站內可查詢古董錶或二手名錶的拍賣資訊、行情、收藏歷史，並可進行線上拍賣。

（口述 / 張志浩，撰文 / 鄭君仲）

Rare Rolex and Patek Philippe watches headline February Gardiner Houlgate auction

Gardiner Houlgate has launched its catalogue for its next watch auction on February 24.

There are 380 lots in the sale, which will be broadcast live as a webcast with an auctioneer calling online bids as they come in.

“During this lock down we are really pleased to present such an interesting mix of modern and vintage timepieces, including some showpieces among the 380 lots,” says David Hare, auctioneer & director at Gardiner Houlgate.

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Headline watches in the sale, described by Gardiner Houlgate, are:

Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Milsub’ Submariner

Fine and Rare Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Milsub’ Submariner stainless steel gentleman’s wristwatch, made for the British Royal Navy, ref. 5513/5517 double reference, circa 1978, serial no. 5339xxx, bi-directional fully calibrated 60-minute recording bezel insert, matt black ‘Swiss – T <25’ dial with luminous markers, Mercedes hands and sweep centre seconds, signed ‘Oyster Perpetual , 600ft=200m Submariner, printed Tritium ‘T’ within a circle, cal. 1520 26 jewel, shouldered screw-down crown, the inner case back with serial number 5339xxx and ‘5513’, the case back with markings polished out, fixed bar lugs with a modern NATO type fabric type band, 39mm

** Purchased several years ago from a family who’s late father was a Royal Navy serviceman. The watch was serviced by Rolex in August 2005 and comes with the Service Guarantee certificate. With a Rolex Oyster outer box and Oyster booklet. The Military issues markings have at some time been polished out of the case

Estimate £60,000-80,000

Rolex Prince Brancard ‘tiger stripe’

Rare and fine Rolex Prince Brancard ‘tiger stripe’ 18ct bicolour flared gentleman’s wristwatch, ref. 971, circa 1933, serial no. 308xx, rectangular two-tone dial signed ‘Rolex Prince Chronometer’, with an Arabic numeral dial over subsidiary constant seconds, blued steel hands, Extra Prima 17 jewel timed 6 position movement with Patent Protective Cap, Hirsch green strap with a gold plated buckle, 43mm x 26mm

Estimate £9000-11,000

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner

Rare Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner stainless steel gentleman’s bracelet watch with the 3-6-9 ‘underline’ Explorer dial and pointed crown guard case, ref. 5513, circa 1963, serial no. 1009xxx, underline Swiss black dial with luminous hour baton markers, outer minute track, quarter 3-6-9 Arabic numerals and gilt dial printing ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 200=660ft Submariner‘, Mercedes hands with sweep centre seconds, Oyster case with revolving black calibrated bezel insert, pointed crown guards with screw-down crown, calibre 1530 26 jewel movement, the case inside back stamped ‘5513’ and dated ‘III.63’, jubilee bracelet with a large logo USA folding clasp, case, dial and movement signed, bezel diameter 40mm

Provenance: During the Covid One Lockdown our client found the opportunity to carry out a tidy of house and home. On turning out a small family safe, they found this rare Rolex watch which had been forgotten about and had been there for some 30 – 35 years! The watch was a gift, along with two other items back in the 80’s, from an elderly gentleman and his wife in recognition of kindness to them in their later years

Estimate £70,000-100,000

Tudor Oyster-Prince Submariner

Rare Tudor Oyster-Prince Submariner gentleman’s stainless steel gentleman’s bracelet watch with the underline dial and pointed crown guard case, ref. 7928, circa 1963, serial no. 399xxx, Swiss gloss black dial with gilt text, lume markers and outer minute track, original Mercedes hands, marked ‘200m = 660ft Submariner, cal. 390 17 jewel movement, the inside case back stamped ‘7928’ ‘II.63’, Oyster bracelet, clasp dated ‘1.65’, bezel 40mm diameter

Estimate £6000-10,000

Patek Philippe Grand Complications Split-Seconds Chronograph

Very fine Patek Philippe Grand Complications Split-Seconds Chronograph platinum gentleman’s wristwatch, ref. 5370P-001, black enamel dial with Breguet applied numerals, sapphire crystal and display back (also with solid back), cal. CHR 29-535 PS 34 jewels movement, no. 52528xx/61447xx, Patek Philippe strap with folding platinum clasp, 41mm

Excellent condition with all the presentation boxes and related papers

Estimate £120,000-140,000

Patek Philippe & Co, Genéve Calatrava

Patek Philippe Calatrava stainless steel gentleman’s wristwatch, ref. 96,circa 1940s, signed circular silvered dial with baton markers, outer dot minute markers and sunken subsidiary seconds dial, signed cal.12 18 jewel movement no. 928xxx, signed case no. 639xxx, the inside case back with the Taubert ‘FB’ trademark, modern black leather strap, 31mm

Estimate £4000-8000

IWC Ingenieur SL ‘Crest of Oman with Crown’

International Watch Co (IWC) Schaffhausen Ingenieur SL ‘Crest of Oman with Crown’ automatic stainless steel and 14ct gold gentleman’s bracelet watch, ref. 3506, serial no. 2353xxx, circa 1990s, circular silvered gridline dial, gold and black inset baton markers, minute markers, date aperture, sweep centre seconds and red crest of Oman with Royal Crown at the nine position, gold bezel, screw down crown with quick set date, cal. 3752 21 jewel movement with a gold self-winding rotor, no. 2394xxx, with gilded dust cover, IWC stainless steel and gold bracelet with folding clasp, 34mm

With IWC box, commissioned from IWC by the HRH Sultan Qaboos Bin Said of Oman, one of approximately 1000 produced.

Estimate £2000-3000

Longines C.O.S.D. British Military Paratroopers ‘Tuna Can’

Rare Longines C.O.S.D. British Military Paratroopers ‘Tuna Can’ gentleman’s wristwatch, circa 1940s, silvered dial with applied 12 & 24 hour Arabic numerals, luminous markers within outer tracking, military arrow, signed cal. 12.68N 16 jewel manual wind gilded movement, no. 6900xxx, the case with fixed bars, Company Ordnance Supply Depot issue markings ‘C.O.S.D. 2340’, original crown, brown leather strap, 36mm

Estimate £8000-12,000

Breguet 18ct pocket watch

Rare and fine Breguet 18ct pocket watch, No. 4833, circa 1904, with independent seconds, split second function and five minute repeating activated with two buttons and slide to the case band, stem wind on two spring barrels, gilt jeweled 19 lignes lever movement with compensated balance and hammers striking on gongs, signed and numbered white dial with Roman dial and outer Arabic track, blued steel hands, the cuvette signed and numbered, the case back with engraved monogram, case. 16230, 113.1gm, 51.5mm

** with ‘J et B Rosseels’ box

** With a certificate of Origin supplied by Emmanuel Breguet in December 2017 confirming the watch was sold to Monsieur Legros on the 8th August 1919

** Lucien Alphose Legros (1866-1933) – was the eldest son of Professor Alphonse Legros, a well known artist who emigrated to London. After serving a general engineering apprenticeship and holding several positions, his interest in motor vehicles started in 1904 as a partner in Legros and Knowles, manufacturers of the Iris car. In WWI he worked on the design of tanks and was the President of the Institution of Automobile Engineers in 1911-12 and 1915-17. He died in June 1933 following a street accident

Estimate £20,000-30,000