如何一眼辨識別人戴哪款勞力士？看「 錶圈 」是最大關鍵

如何一眼辨識別人戴哪款勞力士？看「 錶圈 」是最大關鍵

儘管全世界有無數A貨勞力士，但是從遠處判斷勞力士手錶相對簡單，也就是注意手錶最突出的元素之一：錶圈，將透明錶面固定在錶殼上並環繞錶盤的那一圈，它在Rolex的專業錶款中傳遞了美學和功能性。

1926 年，Hans Wilsdorf 創立的公司推出了蠔式腕錶，這是第一款防水腕錶，配備專利旋入式錶圈、底蓋和上鏈錶冠，從而保護了賦予腕錶生命的機芯。今天，表圈的存在不像過去那樣只是單一保護手錶內部功能，如今錶殼的封密性有其他的技術協助達成。

勞力士 裝飾有幾種不同類型的表圈。有些已停產，例如舊款Day-Date的樹皮表圈（Bark，其名稱來自其質地，類似樹皮），或是和以莫爾紋絲綢繪製的波浪為靈感的莫爾紋表圈 ( Moiré Bezel ) 。 以下是現在仍在生產和使用的所有表圈。這樣您就可以了解它們，並從遠處知道您是否看對了世界上最強大的製表品牌。

1.以錶圈材質區分

鋁金屬

鋁圈邊框自 1950 年代開始使用，當時它們是為了取代了電木，這種合成樹脂內部嵌入了半徑數字，重量較輕、相對耐用且易於成型，缺點是很脆弱具有放射性。相對之下，鋁對於日常使用來說足夠堅固，並且可以很容易地模製、塗色和替換，不會有甚麼後遺症。缺點是很容易磨傷，且在陽光、海水和汗水條件中會變色。所以現在幾乎看不到鋁圈Rolex存在。

陶瓷材料

勞力士 Sea-Dweller 腕錶(15.800 €)

勞力士運動錶使用最多的錶圈材質 。它們自 2005 年開始使用，在這一年，這個皇冠標章品牌推出了Cerachrom材料（陶土與鉻金屬燒製），首度使用在GMT-Master II ref 116718LN，這是一款帶有黑色錶圈的金錶。

由於高科技陶瓷非常堅硬，因此防刮、抗腐蝕，並能保持數十年不變。它可以拋光以發光，儘管它的生產成本比鋁高，而且如果手錶從相當高的地方跌落，它會破裂。Cerachrom 錶圈目前使用在Submariner、Sea-Dweller、Daytona和Yacht-Master 等系列中。

不銹鋼

勞力士 Milgauss （7,900 歐元）

雖然它會刮傷，但**不會像陶瓷一樣破裂。**Milgauss 款錶圈就是不銹鋼材質。

2.以表圈裝飾區分

光滑的

Rolex 蠔式恆動Perpetual 41 腕錶(5.600 €)

這楊的形式不是該品牌最典型特徵，但使用在更傳統的扁平或圓頂表圈。它是一片沒有裝飾的拋光金屬，主要是不鏽鋼、金和鉑金款式。例如，Oyster Perpetual上的圓頂表圈，其他類似的還有Air-King、Day-Date、Datejust、Explorer和Milgauss。

寶石鑲嵌

勞力士 Cosmograph Daytona Rainbow

另一種平滑錶圈裝飾主要是寶石鑲嵌，尤其是鑽石和各種彩色寶石。就像C羅擁有一支的Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Rainbow，此外其它看得到的類似錶圈裝飾還出現在 31毫米和 36 毫米Datejust，以及 36 和 40 毫米的Day-Dates。

三角刻

Datejust 36 (11.400 €)

最初，這種設計是為了實用，容蠔式外圈的三角坑紋具備實際用途，有助將外圈旋緊固定在錶殼上，確保腕錶的防水性能。而底蓋的坑紋設計亦見基於相同的考量，並以特定的勞力士工具旋緊於錶殼位置。及後，三角坑紋成為一項美學設計元素，更是真正的勞力士特徵。華人喜歡稱這種錶圈為狼牙刻或狼牙圈。近年三角坑紋常用於金質錶圈，就像今年出的Datejust 36，少數例外如Sky-Dweller使用蠔式鋼。

3.以錶圈的功能區分

計時選轉功能

Rolex Submariner (7.700 €)

有分雙向或單向轉轉，這主要出現在勞力士的專業手錶款式，使用在60分鐘內計時功能，而且在錶盤上顯示分鐘刻度。亦即以當時分針指向錶盤分鐘數為計時起點，再轉動符合錶圈預定分鐘數目，的歸零定點向的分中樹為定點用錶圈上的0刻度即，擋板旋轉，使得倒三角線與錶盤上的分針，活動進行時要判斷持續時間數，就判斷分針對著錶盤上的刻度即可。

Rolex家族中使用這種配置最有名的當屬潛水錶Submariner，可以用來監視潛水時間，特別是水肺潛水時要精確估算氧氣筒剩餘可用時間，而且專業深潛還需要緩步浮出水面，讓身體適應水壓，通常減壓時間約需要15分鐘，因此我們看到Submariner錶圈上只有0至15是有分鐘刻度，設想非常周全 。至於遊艇與帆船運動也是可以使用此功能，主要是計算兩個浮標間航行時間，甚至有救災時間計算的需要。

測速輔助

Cosmograph Daytona (12.500 €)

它用於計時碼錶錶 ( 記錄經過時間的手錶），並允許在一定距離內計算高達每小時分成 400 個單位 (每單位 9秒 )的平均速度，以公里或英里表示，主要是運用在賽車運動上。品牌勞力士而言，它唯一的計時碼表是 Cosmograph Daytona，自 2011 年以來一直使用 Cerachrom 陶瓷表圈。

24小時時區

GMT-Master II (9.200 €)

它標有 24 小時制以表示另一個時區。它可以是可旋轉的（如在GMT-Master型號中）或固定和靜止的（如在Explorer和Explorer II 中）。在 GMT-Master II 的情況下，時針、分針和秒針指示另一時區的參考時間。

Ring Command

Reloj Sky-Dweller, de Rolex (14.100 €)

Ring Command 是品牌專利的設計，機械功能很複雜的錶款才會使用，最早出現於2007年Yacht-Master II上，功能是啟動錶圈與機芯內部結構的機械裝置，所以錶圈旋轉不是用於計時功能，而是透過轉圈搭配錶冠來決定使用到手錶哪個功能，例如日期，本地時間或雙時區等功能，程序複雜就不在此多做解釋，看起來有點難，但對主人來說算是玩錶的樂趣，也可以當成談資。

4.以錶圈顏色辨別款式

彩虹

Rolex Daytona White Gold Rainbow © Alain Costa

它們與邊框在彩虹的顏色鑲滿各色寶石甚至鑽石，顯示這樣的錶非常昂貴，當它在你的手腕上閃亮時，玫瑰金版Cosmograph Daytona錶圈上就沒有刻度，而是36顆寶石，那就不是拿來測速，是測你的口袋深度了。

Pepsi

50年代中期，Rolex 為不鏽鋼材質的GMT-Master ref. 6542以錶圈顏色為區分的兩款錶，一種是酒紅色，一種是使用紅藍雙色膠木，類似百事可樂商標的兩種配色，就被錶迷暱稱為百事可樂，如今材質改成高科技陶瓷。

Coke

GMT-Master款後來也推出紅黑錶圈組合，有百事，當然就有可口可樂了。

Batman

2019 Rolex GMT-Master II EUR 8,500

這個品牌粉絲滿天下，愛亂取別人搞不懂的暱稱也就不奇怪，黑與藍組合錶圈首次出現在2014年的GMT -Master II。.

本文譯自西班牙版GQ

延伸閱讀

Giannis Antetokounmpo Got a New Watch to Go With His Finals MVP Trophy

Welcome to Watches of the Week, where we’ll track the rarest, wildest, and most covetable watches spotted on celebrities.

Over the course of the NBA season, we witnessed Giannis Antetokounmpo take huge strides. Perhaps the most amazing leap of all: from two-time MVP to… legit watch collector. Before this season, Antetokounmpo wore only one watch: the Oyster Perpetual, Rolex’s baseline model. That all changed in the offseason, when he signed his mammoth $228 million extension with the Milwaukee Bucks while wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. Over the course of the season, he assembled even more precious timepieces, including the beloved “Panda”-dial Rolex Daytona, what looks like a blue-bezel Rolex Submariner, and even a blinged-out Rolex “Rainbow”. This is huge progress from a guy who once loaded up on free water bottles! While we certainly wouldn’t have said boo if Antetokounmpo had worn the very fun Rainbow to the city-wide championship celebration in Milwaukee, he clearly had something else in mind with this Sky-Dweller.

David Dow

Giannis Antetokounmpo’s Rolex Sky-Dweller

You know who else wears a Rolex Sky-Dweller that looks a lot like the one on Antetokounmpo’s wrist? Michael Jordan. I’m not saying that’s the reason Giannis wore his, but I’m not not saying that, either. If a watch collector buys a specific Submariner because Steve McQueen wore it, why couldn’t Giannis do the same with MJ?

Kevin Mazur

John Mayer’s Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Many collectors would ride the “Last Train Home” for a watch like this one. A timepiece collection “Shouldn’t Matter but It Does,” especially if you can buy a watch like Mayer’s sporty Patek Aquanaut. Recently, watch enthusiasts with bottomless pockets—like those at the Sun Valley conference—have awakened to the “New Light” of uber-casual luxury watches like the Aquanaut. Long waitlists for Patek models like the Nautilus and Aquanaut are now the norm, causing hopeful buyers to ask their watch dealers, “Why You No Love Me?”

Joe Raedle Courtesy Omega

Jeff Bezos’s Omega Speedmaster

Bezos’s watch choice for space travel could not have been more on the nose. The Omega Speedmaster, famously known as the Moonwatch, is the only watch approved for NASA flight. So, naturally, it was the watch Bezos and crew wore for the first manned flight of the Amazon founder’s private space company, Blue Origin. (In Bezos’s case, a more accurate description for the Moonwatch would be the BarelyPassingtheBoundaryIntoSpaceWatch.) To celebrate the moment, Bezos even got custom straps with the company’s logo on it—just another indulgence he assumes Amazon employees and customers are happy to foot the bill for.

Getty Images

Henry Golding’s Patek Philippe Nautilus

Whether you’re celebrating a new album like John Mayer or promoting your new G.I. Joe movie Snake Eyes, like Henry Golding was doing this week, a sporty Patek Philippe is a great choice. Golding’s elevated Errand Running fit—black pants, black shirt, black sunglasses—is the reason a watch like the Nautilus exists. The list of watches worth almost $30,000 (at retail) that wouldn’t look out of place on Golding’s wrist basically starts and ends with the Nautilus.

Bryan Bedder

M. Night Shyamalan’s Portugieser Chronograph

If you were trapped on a beach where every 30 minutes is the equivalent of an entire year—that’s the premise of Shyamalan’s new movie Old—wouldn’t you want a precise timing instrument? With this IWC Chronograph watch, Shyamalan is always prepared to be plunged into one of his own horrifying plots.

Giannis Antetokounmpo Wore a Rolex Sky-Dweller to the Milwaukee Bucks’ NBA Championship Parade

How do you celebrate a first NBA championship? If you’re Giannis Antetokounmpo, you buy yourself a new watch.

The Milwaukee Bucks superstar showed up to the team’s celebratory parade on Thursday morning with a brand-new piece of wristwear—a Rolex Sky-Dweller. The Finals MVP has shown himself to be something of a watch enthusiast over the past year, and this latest timepiece only adds to that reputation.

Prior to the start of last season, if you saw Giannis wearing a watch, it was most likely be his trusty Oyster Perpetual. Since this past season tipped off, though, the Greek Freak started to branch out a little, with a couple head-turning Rollies—a “Panda”-dial Daytona and a Rainbow Rolex Cosmograph Daytona—and an Audemars Piguet Offshore, just to name a few (h/t GQ). He may only be 26, but he clearly knows what he likes in a timepiece.

For more proof of this, just look at his latest wrist candy. First released in 2012, the Sky Dweller is one of the watchmaker’s most complicated offerings. It has a 9001 caliber movement that features two time zones, a date display, a month indicator and an annual calendar. Giannis’s example, Ref. 326934, comes in white Rolesor, has a black dial and a 42mm case topped with one of the brand’s trademark fluted bezels. With a price tag of $14,800, it’s an elegant timepiece. It also just so happens to be the watch favored by the greatest NBA player of all time, Michael Jordan.

If you’re wondering why Giannis was able to elevate his watch game so dramatically this year, the answer is likely pretty simple: The star forward signed a five-year, $228 million contract extension with Milwaukee last December, days before the season started, a decision that’s paid off nicely for both sides so far. Considering that his newest Rolex costs just one 1,860th of his yearly salary, we wouldn’t be surprised to see Giannis’s collection grow exponentially by the time the Bucks start defending their title this fall.