Omega 新舊超霸挑選指南：機芯、鍊帶全細節一次分析

]

該來的終究還是來了。自從兩年前 Omega 推出第一款搭載 3861 機芯的限量版 Speedmaster 以來錶界就盛傳超霸即將改款，面對這個可能的變化有人搶在改款前入手末代搭載 1861 機芯的舊版，有人則是想等著看看預期將會升級的新版再做決定，而就在 2021 年的第一個星期二 1 月 5 號，Omega 正式發表了下一代的超霸，所有的猜測和等待到此終於告一段落，接下來就只剩做選擇了。

舊版

截至筆者撰稿當下 Omega 的官網上都還維持著新舊兩版並存的狀態，不過誰也說不準他們會不會明天就突然把舊版下架，而即便目前新舊版都還買得到，但市場上舊版的價錢已經比兩個月前漲了約一成以上，要買的話現在真的是最後的機會了。

舊版

一開始大家預測要改款的根據主要就是 Omega 先行在少數特殊款式中使用了 1861 機芯的升級版 3861，因此比較新舊超霸的癥結點自然也回到了你比較想要哪顆機芯。太複雜的事情這裡不提，基本上兩代機芯的差別就是 3861 改裝了同軸擒縱，並且將防磁性能強化到怪物等級的 15,000 高斯以上；同軸擒縱是 Omega 的鎮店之寶，將它裝進了 1861 這顆活古董裡毫無疑問地是一大加分，問題是不少人想要 1861 圖的就是它橫跨半世紀的經典地位，一旦換掉了作為機芯心臟的擒縱器以後還算不算原汁原味就有待商榷了。防磁性能的確是時下機械錶最需要的機能，15,000 高斯放眼錶界也沒有人能望其項背，不過有些人自恃戴錶習慣很好，對於防磁沒有太放在心上，而且 15,000 高斯那麼強的磁場一般日常生活也沒那麼容易碰到，加碼到這個地步到底還實不實用恐怕也是因人而異了。

新版

機芯之外新版最大的改款就在鍊帶。超霸自從 1957 年問世以來換過好幾種不同的鍊帶樣式，1861 版搭配的是所謂的「龐德式」鍊帶，相對地 3861 版則換裝了另一款超霸早期的設計；3861 版的鍊帶曾經用在兩年前登月 50 週年時推出的全金紀念款上，跟龐德鍊相比雖然同樣是三板的結構，但新版的中間一排較窄，兩側較寬，每節的長度更短，而且從錶頭到錶扣整條錶帶有明顯地逐漸收窄（龐德鍊收窄的幅度沒這麼大）。像這個程度的差異我想除非是書呆子型的錶迷否則應該很少人會在意，不過兩版鍊帶搭配的錶扣就有真的有差了，新版這裡採用的同樣是早期樣式，凸出半截的 Omega logo 以及扣蓋上的條紋如今看來都很復古，哪個好看見仁見智，不過這的確是個有感的差異就是了。

新版

50 週年全金紀念款

除了機芯和鍊帶之外新舊版還有一些很小的不同，比如說錶圈測速計上 90 公里的圓點是打在數字 90 的上面還是旁邊、中央計時秒針是三角針與否，像這些地方也是留給重度玩家去操心就好了，倒是這次改版沒換裝陶瓷錶圈反而還比較令人在意；之前兩年先裝了 3861 機芯的限量款全都配備了陶瓷圈，想不到最後要常態性販售的基本款到頭來卻沒裝，而推測品牌之所以會壓住這個升級不做的理由是為了將定價壓在 20 萬出頭，畢竟舊版 16 萬的定價實在是太便宜了，如果新版一口氣升級到位的話價格可能會衝破 25 萬，這個落差對後進的買家來說被剝奪感太強了，店家恐怕也賣不動，因此最後才會在錶圈這種地方偷點料來守住 20 萬，對品質和和價格來說是個互相妥協的結果。大概是基於同樣的理由，新版這次還砍掉了舊版多送的兩條 NATO 錶帶，兩條錶帶說少不少，市售加起來也有個1萬，對定價是真的會有影響的，好在不是每個人都很在意這點，如果真的想換錶帶的話替代方案多得是。

新版

各方條件加加減減下來新舊版算是各有優劣，價差的部分也是物有所值，不太有虧到賺到的問題，要買哪款真的是存乎一心。偏愛舊版的人可能會怨嘆錯過了年前最好的入手時機，但往好的地方想，新版即便賣到 20 萬都仍然是同級錶款中最划算的選擇，就算現在才入手還是很值得。

新版

The latest launch from Omega costs just £165

]

Omega

Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch has been available for more than 50 years. But while it’s widely known as the timepiece from the 1969 landing on the Moon, what is less remembered is that unlike the metal bracelet used on Earth, the crew of Apollo 11 made use of a Velcro strap.

The reasoning behind this is simple. Metal clasps are not the friend of chunky space gloves, and the considerable adjustability of a Velcro NATO strap would mean the watch could be placed around a spacesuit sleeve as well as a human wrist.

To mark this union of fabric strap and space watch, Omega has announced three new Velcro straps that bear both the watchmaker’s name and the Nasa logo for good measure.

The 2021 Omega Velcro Nasa straps come in black, white and silver, and can be swapped in for any 20mm strap Omega

Read next The best watches for less than £500 The best watches for less than £500

The Nasa straps cost £165, making them an easily worthwhile investment when paired with the £4,000+ Omega Speedmaster. The 2021 range comes in black, white and silver, and of course can be paired with any watch that will fit the 20mm strap, but if you want to emulate the Buzz Aldrin look (below) then a Moonwatch is the only option.

This is not the first Velcro strap from Omega. For a couple of years a simpler, £140 NATO black version has been available. However, these three new iterations update this design.

Omega

The black version references the original Velcro strap, which was produced by an American company and not Omega at the time, while the white is a nod to the Apollo-era spacesuits. The silver version apparently pays tribute to the shiny suits worn on the pre-Apollo missions: Gemini and Mercury.

It was at the start of its Gemini program in 1961 that Nasa recognised it needed to find a watch that could endure the extreme temperatures and G-forces encountered during space flight. Only four companies – Hamilton, Rolex, Longines and Omega – submitted watches to be tested for suitability.

Read next The latest bizarre anti-Apple Watch looks broken on purpose The latest bizarre anti-Apple Watch looks broken on purpose

The 11 tests attempting to simulate conditions in space and on the Moon itself included the watches being heated for 48 hours at 70°C then 30 minutes at 93°C; accelerated from standstill to 7.25G for five minutes, then 16G for 30 seconds, along three axes; and a vibration test from five to 2,000Hz, along three axes, with acceleration of at least 8.8G. The Omega was the only watch to pass all the tests.

Joseph Bonnie’s Velcro strap is supposedly made to the original 1969 specifications including printed stock numbers Omega

But in all these tests the strap was never a factor despite Velcro only being a relatively recent invention. Patented in 1955 by Swiss electrical engineer George de Mestral, the design was inspired by the burdock seeds that got stuck in both his coat and his dog’s fur.

If you are a stickler for authenticity, however, though the original Velcro straps are no longer manufactured you can get a recreated version from Joseph Bonnie for €65 that is supposedly made to the original specifications and dimensions, even mimicking the stock numbers printed on the upper surface.

Staunch Omega fans though will likely prefer the new, updated branded versions complete with that iconic NASA “meatball”.

Read next Omega’s updated Speedmaster is the latest space-ready Moonwatch Omega’s updated Speedmaster is the latest space-ready Moonwatch

Price: £165 | Omega

Jeremy White is WIRED’s executive editor. He tweets from @jeremywired

Omega Unveils De Ville Trésor Power Reserve Watch

]

While Omega’s sports watch designs typically dominate the conversation surrounding the brand (at least in most Western markets), its extensive dress-oriented side has historically been a breeding ground for classic models. The elegantly minimal De Ville Trésor line carries on this tradition for 2021, blending clean and elemental dress sensibilities with the brand’s modern movement-making prowess. The new Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve is a fine example of this dual expertise, blending both Bauhaus-esque tasteful minimalism and contemporary horological innovation to create a timelessly refined design with enough character to set it apart from competitors.

While on the larger side for a dress watch at 40mm, the 18k yellow-gold case of the Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve remains classically simple in form. The tapering lugs flow gently and seamlessly into the case sides, the sloping smooth bezel is narrow but still carries its own presence, and Omega tops the watch with a vintage-style box sapphire crystal. A fully polished finish helps to highlight the classically dressy character and the case profile measures in at a relatively slender 10.07mm. Water resistance for this case stands at only 30 meters, but this is a design without any sporting aspirations.

Advertising Message

The dial of the Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve carries on the refined minimalist theme with a grainy silver-domed surface. The simple gold stick hands are mirrored by the matching applied indices, and the 3 o’clock printed Omega logo and 9 o’clock dial text counterweight each other handsomely to maintain an elegantly symmetrical look. The recessed subdials at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock are likewise finely balanced, with pared-back printed scales to minimize the intrusion upon the azurage finishing. The 6 o’clock subdial offers a small seconds display, while the 12 o’clock register cleanly and simply marks out the 72-hour power reserve. Dress watches can be made or broken by delicate proportion and detail, and while the two register design gives the De Ville Trésor Power Reserve a unique character, the balance between these elements and the use of negative space maintains a sense of airy refinement and simplicity.

Inside the Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve beats the in-house Calibre 8935 hand-wound movement. Featuring Omega’s signature co-axial escapement and 15,000 Gauss of magnetic resistance, the Calibre 8935 offers a solid array of the brand’s modern innovations. These include twin sequential mainspring barrels, a silicon balance spring, and NIVACHOC shock protection. Certified to Omega’s stringent in-house Master Chronometer standards of accuracy by Swiss government organization METAS, the Calibre 8935 offers a hefty 72-hour power reserve at a 25,200 bph beat rate. Decoration includes Omega’s signature arabesque Geneva waves across the nearly full bridges, with a contrasting balance bridge in 18k Sedna gold. Omega finishes the De Ville Trésor Power Reserve with a clean and classical alligator pattern leather strap in rich slate gray.

With a unique but finely balanced minimal design and a thoroughly modern hand-wound movement, the Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve stands as compelling proof that the brand’s offerings outside the core sporting models are every bit as dramatic and capable as their more popular cousins. The Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve is available now through authorized dealers at an MSRP of $17,500. For more details, please visit the brand’s website.

follow us