Gold Vermeil Jewelry Decoded: What Is It, How To Care For It, & More
When shopping for accessories like a pair of gold hoops or a diamond tennis bracelet, it’s easy to get lost in the jewelry vernacular. You’ll come across product descriptions that read “14k yellow gold” or “gold plated,” but what does this actually mean? A reoccurring, and often confusing, term you may have noticed, too, is gold vermeil jewelry. Is it gold? What is vermeil? Before you fret over these questions, TZR asked several jewelry industry experts, who work directly with this material, for answers. They break down the composition of gold vermeil and offer tips and tricks to buying, and wearing, this type of jewelry.
According to Edge of Ember founder Lynette Ong, gold vermeil is defined as having a sterling silver base with a layer of gold applied onto it that is at least 2.5 microns (0.0025 mm) in thickness. The gold has to be at least 10k, or 41.7% pure gold, (the k stands for karat, a measure of the purity of gold). A higher karat means a higher percentage of gold, so a 24k gold piece of jewelry signifies 100% pure gold. However, this is very rarely used in jewelry manufacturing due to how soft this unadulterated precious material is. Most brands opt for 14k gold (58.3% pure gold) that gives the jewelry a soft, lustrous hue.
For jewelers, one of the pros of creating a gold vermeil piece rather than gold-plated jewelry, which typically has a 0.5 micron gold sheet layered over a base metal like brass, copper, or nickel, is its durability. “The porousness of brass makes it difficult to keep pristine in that way,” KHIRY founder Jameel Mohammed tells TZR. “Ultimately, all plated jewelry will fade over time. That’s why I transitioned to silver [after experimenting with gold-plated brass samples]. It felt less prone to the kind of diffuse that can come with plated jewelry.”
Ong says you can expect to spend anywhere from $50 for a low-tier gold vermeil ring to $350 for a gold vermeil necklace while Mohammed adds pricing depends on how durable and unique you want your piece to be. “Long story short, there’s not a single price. It’s about where in the market that brand is aiming to be perceived,” Mohammed states. “If you are looking to support smaller businesses, you should think about the fact that their costs are probably higher for the same thing, relative to like larger companies that have greater economies of scale.” (For reference, KHIRY’s gold vermeil pieces range from $215 for a stacking ring to $675 for a medallion necklace.)
In addition to gold vermeil and gold-plated pieces, there’s also the term gold-filled. The difference between the latter and gold-plated jewelry boils down to technique. In gold-filled jewelry, a solid layer of gold is mechanically bonded to a base metal, typically brass. (A gold sheet or wire wraps around the core base metal while heat is used to fuse the gold layer and the underlying core together.) “Because it is produced in this bonded way, the gold cannot rub off, so it has the benefits of solid gold jewelry, but at a fraction of the cost,” Ong shares. “However, gold-filled jewelry has some limitations in the way it can be manufactured. It cannot be cast or poured into a mold as it’s only available in [gold] sheets or wire.” When comparing gold-filled jewelry to gold vermeil then, gold-filled pieces will likely be more durable than gold vermeil, due to manufacturing processes.
Finally, there is solid gold, which is always a top option, as it can be worn every day and is immune to discoloration or tarnishing. There is one catch: don’t confuse it with pure gold. Pure gold has to be 24k in weight while solid gold can be made up of the least pure, yet most durable, 10k kind. What the term solid gold signifies is that the piece contains no other metal to serve as the base for the jewelry piece.
Overall, gold vermeil wins for its durability and affordability. It’s important to treat this type of jewelry with care, too, like you would with luxe jewelry. As a general rule of thumb, avoid showering or exercising with gold vermeil jewelry. Store pieces individually and out of the sunlight. Beauty products, too, like hand sanitizer, perfumes, creams, and hairsprays can cause tarnish. (The sterling silver base in gold vermeil oxidizes when exposed to air, humidity, sweat, or chemicals, hence the discoloration seeping through over time.)
If the tarnishing has already happened though, there are ways to alleviate the damage. “Light tarnishing can be lifted by cleaning your jewelry with a soft polishing cloth,” Ong says. “And if dirt is beginning to build up on your pieces and you need something a little stronger, use a silver polish solution.” As a final solution, you can always replate your beloved gold vermeil piece (KHIRY offers this service in-house on an ad hoc basis.)
Now that you’re caught up on the ins and outs of gold vermeil jewelry, start adding some pieces into your own collection. You’ll find an assortment of everyday earrings, statement rings, and more ahead.
We only include products that have been independently selected by TZR’s editorial team. However, we may receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.
Local jewelry company handed key to success
It’s a golden opportunity that came straight out of the blue.
It’s a golden opportunity that came straight out of the blue.
Nominees for the upcoming Emmy and Golden Globe awards will be walking the red carpet in handmade necklaces from Winnipeg company Jillian Leigh Jewelry, but exactly how the award show organizers discovered the local brand of gold adornments remains a mystery.
“We still don’t know how they found us, but we’re really glad they did,” says co-founder and jeweler Velia Amador. “It means a lot to us to be able to participate in such a high profile event because it’s going to help us gain some international exposure.”
JOHN WOODS / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS Velia Amador is a self-taught jewelry designer and co-founder of Jillian Leigh.
“And if any of the celebrities loved our pieces and ordered something from us, I think I would die,” says Jillian Sheedy, the business’s other half and a self-professed celebrity enthusiast. Before they were business partners, the women were co-workers at a corporate office. They started Jillian Leigh together in 2018 after Amador — who had been forging jewelry as a hobby for more than a decade — offered to make some custom bracelets for Sheedy’s wedding.
“We decided this might be a good partnership because we really enjoyed working together,” says Amador, who makes the jewelry while Sheedy handles the designs, photography and marketing. “I don’t have any formal training, it’s all just self-taught… I’ve really upped my skill level and challenged myself to learn more so we can execute some of our collections.”
Together, they specialize in delicate, minimal, gold-filled earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings and anklets.
“It has the same properties as solid gold; it’s just a bit more affordable,” says Sheedy, who last year decided to focus on the venture and her photography career full-time.
JOHN WOODS / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS Leigh specializes in delicate, minimal, gold-filled earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings and anklets.
The pair made a name for Jillian Leigh on the local craft-market circuit and have been working to boost their online sales amid the pandemic.
“We actually had an amazing year last year, considering,” Amador says. “We were able to gain momentum through our website… and that momentum has continued throughout this year, with the added bonus that we can actually do markets again.”
The award-show opportunities are expected to take things to the next level.
Amador, who still works 9 to 5, has been busy making 250 of the custom necklaces in her home studio.
JOHN WOODS / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS Leigh’s key necklace will be worn by nominees at the upcoming Emmy Awards and Golden Globes.
Being able to source enough materials and components for their biggest order yet from other small independent businesses has been a challenge. The unisex design features a simple gold key on a long chain.
“They had the idea for the key and then we put our own Jillian Leigh spin on it,” Sheedy says. “The pendant is an old-fashioned skeleton key that’s very on-brand for us and pretty modern-looking.”
Nominees for the Emmys, which air Sept. 19, and Golden Globes, which take place next February, will be adorned with the chains before they walk into the award show venue.
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“I’m so excited to see who is going to be wearing handmade pieces by us — it’s pretty crazy,” Sheedy says. “I never would’ve thought this opportunity would come, especially for a couple of small-town local makers from Winnipeg.”
JOHN WOODS / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS Velia Amador has been hard at work creating 250 of Jillian Leigh’s custom key necklaces for Emmy and Golden Globe nominees.
“It’s really exciting to know that a little piece of us is out there in (Los Angeles),” Amador adds. “To be asked to make them is a pretty big privilege.”
Both entrepreneurs say they will be tuning in to the film and television awards to see their jewelry in action.
Jillian Leigh will also be making a small run of the necklaces for local shoppers to purchase online at jillianleigh.ca. The brand can also be found at local retailers Mad About Style, Made Here For You and Style Bar.
Twitter: @evawasney
Local Permanent Jewelry Brands Offer a Sustainable Spin on Sentimentality
Recently, there has been a trend toward permanent jewelry. Though the word “permanent” can evoke some anxiety, permanent jewelry is nothing to be afraid of. It simply involves a claspless necklace, bracelet, ring or anklet that is custom-fit and welded back together. Three local brands – LINK x LOU, Love Saro and Dainty Permanent Jewelry – weighed in on why this trend came to be and why permanent jewelry is a sustainable option for those looking for a keepsake with longevity. Inspired by jewelers in other cities or simply by pandemic-induced needs for a creative outlet, these three brands offer something unique: jewelry that also provides a personal, intimate experience.
LINK x LOU
When LINK x LOU founder and CEO Jordan Louis was “fully considering” flying to New York for a piece of permanent jewelry, she knew she was on to something. She had seen a bracelet on a friend, from “the OG of permanent jewelry,” NYC-based brand Catbird, and couldn’t find anything like it closer to Denver. Working as an esthetician when COVID hit, Louis found her answer when reading a women’s entrepreneurship book. Louis explained, “the book said, ‘when there is a problem and no solution, that’s your business.’ That’s when it hit me. The whole vision of what is now known as LINK x LOU could become, came at that moment”.
She began building her business immediately. Louis explained that her brand is meant for “truly anyone and everyone, but especially for those who value simplicity and sustainability.” She also really wanted to create an experience for her customers, so they come away with not only a new piece of jewelry that they care about but an experience they can remember.
The LINK x LOU “Linking” process works like this: customers select their chain from one of six different options of 14k white or yellow gold. After deciding on a bracelet, anklet, ring or necklace, a trained “Linker” will custom fit the piece. After setting the chain, the Linker then welds the ends of the chain together, creating the permanence of the piece. Louis explained permanent jewelry has “layers of sentimental values. Think modern friendship bracelets, a chain for each child, bridesmaid gifts, a family bonding piece, the list goes on. It’s basically a shinier version of a tattoo for many”.
According to Louis, permanent jewelry is a sustainable practice, offering a longer-lasting option in a world of almost disposable costume jewelry. She uses sustainable jewelry practices and precious metals in an effort to make a minimal impact on the environment. To Louis, this means LINK x LOU produces “forever pieces, not poorly-made, low-quality jewelry that will be thrown out after a few wears.” LINK x LOU pieces are meant to be worn daily, are solid gold – not gold-filled or gold plated – and are inherently non-toxic. These practices prevent LINK x LOU from wasting resources and allows them to contribute to the global focus on sustainability in the jewelry industry. “We are proud to recycle our scrap metals and stand behind a product that is pretty on our wrists and easy on our planet,” Louis explained.
Louis believes the popularity of permanent jewelry is due to the fact that it offers not only a solution to fast fashion jewelry but an impactful, sentimental experience. There is meaning behind every step of the LINK x LOU experience. By creating a custom-fit, claspless piece, the customer is making a series of decisions that apply to them and only them. “Our jewelry doesn’t require removal or any additional upkeep because the intention is for it to last as long as you want it to, unlike traditional jewelry” she explained. “Whether serving as a daily reminder, a gift from a loved one or a friendship bracelet shared with a sibling or family member far away, the sentiment is always there – permanently”.
When asked about the future of the brand, Louis explained that she does have expansion plans – Los Angeles, Chicago, Colorado Springs, Seattle and Oahu are on the list – but her focus remains on who LINK x LOU is as a company. “My hope is that we maintain the reputation of our passion for connecting not only the ends of our pieces to make them permanent, but also our communities, local businesses, and friends and family.”
To work with LINK x LOU, follow the brand on Instagram to make an appointment for a private party or solo session or attend one of their pop-ups.
Love Saro
Boulder-based Love Saro was born, like many brands, out of a need for a creative outlet. When co-founder and designer Sacha Jarmon had come out of her own isolation on a long maternity leave, she was thrown into another shutdown, this time in early 2020. She found herself doing a lot of beadwork late at night after her children went to sleep. Jarmon started photographing her pieces on her artist mother’s marble sculptures and noticed that the jewelry and sculpture paired well together and the idea for Love Saro was born. The brand was a way for Jarmon and her mother to “create and connect, together and in our community, especially at a time when we are needing it and craving that human connection more than ever before” she explained.
The Love Saro permanent jewelry process starts with a measurement to determine most comfortable fit for bracelets, necklaces or anklets. Then, the Love Saro team helps customers select design elements including solid 14k and 18k gold and sterling silver chains, precious and semi-precious stone charms and more. The team then microscopically welds the cut chain link back together on the customer with technology that is barely visible to the naked eye and doesn’t touch the skin. It’s a safe, easy process and the end result is a “piece of permanent jewelry, designed for forever wear”, said Jarmon.
For Jarmon, Love Saro pieces are meant to be shared and experienced together. “It is a unique and memorable way to celebrate relationships, milestones and everything in between,” she said. “Because of the shared experience aspect and because you cannot remove it, it is always with you. It’s a special reminder of that shared experience.”
Jarmon is actively working on sourcing more sustainable materials for her stones and chains, but it’s an area that she’s looking forward to building upon. She explained that because the brand is small, it naturally has a small footprint – and it intends to keep it that way. Overall, the attention to high-quality materials and permanence of the jewelry inherently makes Love Saro a sustainable brand.
Jarmon is proud of the growth she’s seen in these first eight months since Love Saro’s official opening. “As we are approaching a semblance of new normalcy as a society and weddings and gatherings are coming back, we would love to be more involved in that space. Our permanent jewelry concept is a perfect way to celebrate intimately with the bridal party, or for guests and really add sparkle to these celebrations with a valuable gift that lasts forever,” explained Jarmon.
To shop Love Saro’s jewelry, make an appointment to stop by the Boulder studio or shop on the website. Love Saro also does private events and can host in its studio or make house calls. For more information on Love Saro’s pop-ups around Colorado, follow the brand on Instagram.
Love Saro is located at 2555 49th St Unit 3, Boulder and is open Sunday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., by appointment only.
Dainty Permanent Jewelry
For Dainty Permanent Jewelry owner Holly Cummings, permanent jewelry can be more sentimental than traditional jewelry because it is a piece that’s meant to be worn for a longer period of time. Cummings also thinks of it as a way to define your own personal style. In fact, that’s what inspired her to create the brand. “I was inspired by Catbird, an amazing jeweler in New York, and Atelier VM in Paris. I’ve always been about simple, yet sophisticated style,” she said.
For Cummings, sustainability is an ever-present value when sourcing her materials and thinking about quality. Dainty Permanent Jewelry only uses lasting materials and high-quality 14k solid gold for permanent bracelets and non-permanent rings. “I didn’t want something that people would want to take off, or wouldn’t continue to make them smile when they see it on their wrist,” she explained. Inherently, permanent jewelry is sustainable, because, as Cummings described, “we are creating a long-lasting, high-quality product that is not worn and discarded after a short period of time.”
In discussing the growth in popularity around permanent jewelry, Cummings believes it’s due to the minimalist jewelry trend. She explained that her products are meant for anyone who wants effortless style every day. “I hope this feeling resonates with anyone who has a busy lifestyle and does not want to have to think about it. It goes wherever you’re going,” she said. As social lives begin to pick up and calendars begin to fill, it might be nice to have one less thing to worry about.
For now, Dainty Permanent Jewelry is only available by private appointment or at local pop-ups around Denver. Wherever your appointment takes place, the process will be the same: customers will select their 14k chain, have it sized custom to their wrist, and with a “quick zap,” it’s permanent until “they don’t want it to be,” explained Cummings.
As a native of Colorado, Cummings looks forward to building out her business on her home turf. Of course, she wants to continue to grow her business but doesn’t want to sacrifice the brand or the mission by expanding nationally. Her explanation is heartfelt, “I want every customer to get the same level of service, and I want to know your story! When you set up an appointment, I’m the one who you’ll be working with and I think that would be difficult to achieve with a significant expansion.” Cummings explained how grateful she is for the support her brand has received and she enjoys meeting “each and every one person who comes to us.”
To schedule private appointments or find out where Dainty Denver will hold their next pop up, follow the brand on Instagram.
After speaking with all three founders, it was interesting to note that not only did the pandemic birth and sustain these brands, the trend toward this type of jewelry grew as well. After a year (plus) filled with uncertainty, it appears many of us are looking for a little permanence in our lives. Permanent jewelry also offers an experience. As a refreshing departure from direct-to-consumer, mindless online shopping, all three of these brands offer house calls and encourage bringing people together to share in an experience.