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Gilt trip: Goossens and the golden legacy
In 1957, Robert Goossens, a young Parisian goldsmith with an atelier in the Marais, was stunned to be summoned to meet with Gabrielle Chanel. They had only known each other peripherally until that point: Goossens had been contracted by Maison Degorce to make couture jewels for Chanel since 1953, and he had also worked in ateliers producing jewels and objects for Cartier. Goossens had a knack for translating the fantasy of fashion jewels into fine goldsmithing – and vice versa – and it was surely this spark of creativity that caught the eye of Chanel. In that meeting, she asked Goossens to work with her on both her personal jewels and the jewellery for the maison. Together, they developed a rich, romantic signature style: gilt metal, studded with coloured glass or pâte de verre, and the mingling of real and faux stones. They also broke the traditional rules of jewellery making, prioritising beauty and craftsmanship over intrinsic value, and creating a new genre of couture jewels, poised between precious jewellery, fashion and art.
Goossens Talisman Cabochon earrings, £125 each
The new Goossens boutique in Burlington Gardens, London W1
Since 1978, that genre has been perpetuated and enriched by Patrick Goossens, the late founder’s son, the director of heritage and savoir-faire at the Paris maison. While the atelier – now part of Chanel’s Paraffection stable of métiers d’arts workshops – still creates couture and catwalk pieces for other fashion houses, the focus has shifted in recent years towards expanding its own in-house lines of jewels and homeware. “We’re leveraging our rich heritage to create our own line as a tribute to my father,” says Goossens, from his home in Normandy. “We are at the frontier between costume jewellery and fine jewellery. We present an entirely original value proposition, jewels made by artist-goldsmiths, in gold-plated metal and semi-precious stones or glass, that are heirlooms to be passed down through generations.”
We’re leveraging our rich heritage to create our own line as a tribute to my father”
As part of this expansion, Goossens opened an interior-design store in the Rue Cambon late last year, and is poised to open the doors of its first London boutique, on Burlington Gardens, this month. The minimal, white and marble space will house Goossens’ spring/summer ’21 collection, which expands the house’s Talisman collection with an enticing treasury of jewelled pieces inspired by poppies. There are hoop earrings clustered all around with lush blossoms, a cuff bracelet engraved with flowers, a Merovingian-inspired rock-crystal-studded medallion, and the brand’s signature stackable necklaces and bracelets. Interestingly, the price of a Goossens piece is significantly less than most of the jewels you’ll find at Mayfair’s neighbouring stores – rings range from £190 to £590, while a Cabochon two-pendant earring costs £249.
Goossens gold-plated brass and tinted rock crystal Cabochons bracelets, £380 each. Gold-plated brass and rock crystal Mini Cabochons stacking rings, £200 each. Gold-plated brass and tinted rock crystal Cabochons squared ring, £225. Oval Cabochons ring, £225 Goossens Talisman Poppy Flower hoop earrings in gold-plated brass, £445
Alongside Goossens’ own creations, the maison will also present its collaboration with artist-jeweller Harumi Klossowska de Rola, with whom the brand has been working for the past three years. A like-minded free spirit, and the daughter of artist Balthus, Klossowska de Rola likes to cross boundaries, mix disciplines and challenge preconceptions of what jewels should be. Her first Goossens x Harumi collection took the world of plants as a theme. The current collection, her second, focuses on the animal world. Specifically she has drawn on two creatures: the serpent – a symbol of regeneration and a Klossowska de Rola favourite – and the lion, Chanel’s birth sign and a fascination of Goossens and Klossowska de Rola. A sculpted lion-head ring in 24-carat gilded brass is given a pearl-scattered mane, while slithering snakes are twisted into heart-shaped hoop earrings. It’s a collection that weaves together Goossens’ unique relationship with the storied Paris fashion house, as well as developing the narrative to incorporate a new creative vision. “Harumi has a strong and unique point of view, she understands so well the universe of Chanel,” says Goossens. “And both of us are inspired by our fathers.”
Modernity notwithstanding, all Goossens jewels are still handmade using the traditional techniques of goldsmithing, including lost-wax casting to capture the intricate sculptural details and three-dimensionality of a piece. The gilded metal is hand-hammered, sometimes patinated and set with semi-precious stones and minerals, particularly rock crystal, which Patrick Goossens describes as a “living material”. The gilded baroque metalwork, and the mix of natural and faux materials, remain defining features and echo Chanel’s audacious code-breaking collaboration with the goldsmith she called her “barbaric Byzantine”.
Top: Goossens gold-plated brass, freshwater pearl and crystal charm, £185. Gold-plated brass clover charm, £140. Gold-plated brass and freshwater pearl charm, £170. Bottom: Goossens Talisman gold-plated brass and enamel clover charm, £170. Talisman gold-plated brass and turquoise medal charm, £185. Talisman gold-plated brass and tinted rock crystal Cabochon charm, £170 Creating the Goossens gold-plated brass Wheat mirror, with its 100 ears of wheat, £14,500
Goossens’ interior objects, including chandeliers hung with huge bespoke cut chunks of rock crystal and mirrors framed in thick gilded wheatsheaves, are also rooted in the Chanel relationship. The story goes that one day Chanel presented Robert Goossens with a rock-crystal globe and asked him to turn it into an object; he modelled and crafted a base of three gilded lions. The lion ball, in three sizes and available in rock crystal, smoky quartz or pyrite, still takes pride of place in the Goossens collection. He also designed Chanel a coffee table with a smoked glass top and a wheatsheaf base.
“Unusually – perhaps uniquely – it is the same artisans in our atelier who make jewels, objects and furniture,” adds Patrick. “Often artisans who have been with Goossens for over 30 years and worked side by side with my father. They can make anything.”
Chanel 13款珍珠耳環推薦！溫柔優雅不僅襯托氣質又很百搭，可以是購買精品的入門款, chanel 珍珠耳環, CHANEL入門款推薦, CHANEL 二手珍珠耳環
每個女生的配飾都少不了耳環，而珍珠耳環更是在近年來成為主流配飾，無論是在韓劇中還是街拍中，都不難發現主角們都搭配了珍珠耳環為自己的穿搭點睛，溫潤的珍珠質感，瞬間襯托溫柔優雅氣質。
為什麼Chanel珍珠耳環歷久不衰？
- 珍珠配件就是可可香奈兒女士最喜歡的裝飾
香奈兒本人對珍珠的喜愛幾乎達到了迷戀的地步，香奈兒曾說過：「沒有珍珠的女人，不能成為女人。」無論白天黑夜、不管運動裝還是優雅的小黑裙，她都不忘戴上一串珍珠項鍊，或者配上一對精緻 典雅的珍珠耳環。
Coco Chanel 女士把珍珠視為身上不可或缺的時髦配件
- 「沒有珍珠的女人，不能成為女人。」
珍珠配件就是可可香奈兒女士最喜歡的裝飾，香奈兒本人對珍珠的喜愛幾乎達到了迷戀的地步，香奈兒曾說過：「沒有珍珠的女人，不能成為女人。」無論白天黑夜、不管運動裝還是優雅的小黑裙，她都不忘戴上一串珍珠項鍊，或者配上ㄧ對精緻 典雅的珍珠耳環。
- 第一個把珍珠這種珍貴的珠寶時尚化
香奈兒女士也是第一個把珍珠這種珍貴的珠寶時尚化，她知道串珠的價值不斐，但她利用人造珍珠創造出大量珍珠項鍊、耳環等裝飾珠寶，讓高貴的珠寶也能普及到一般人可得，因為香奈兒女士覺得，珍珠對她來說是時尚的象徵，她不把珍珠當珠寶，而是時尚的配件配戴，讓珍珠的形象更多元更容易入手；如果你還是擔心一般日常服裝很難駕馭一長串珍珠項鍊，不妨採用簡單的珍珠耳環來點亮一身的穿搭。
- 二手市場上超保值的款式
每一季都會推出新的珍珠耳環的Chanel，其實在網路上也流傳著許多骨董珍珠耳環在販售，原因就是因為CHANEL的珍珠耳環歷久不衰，永遠不退流行，即使2~30年前的設計拿出來還是一樣好看。
哪裡可以入手CHANEL二手的珍珠耳環？
看完這麼多經典好看的香香珍珠耳環，是否也很想要入手一對呢?
其實CHANEL的珍珠耳環在二手市場也非常活耀，因為以前的時尚珠寶做工都非常結實，真材實料，很多好看的款式當年生產完就沒有了啊，所以喜歡復古設計的女孩，不妨可以從精品二手網站裡的物件挑選自己心愛的商品，我們從 Farfetch 的二手網站上蒐集了13 款經典復古不退流行，同時也百搭好配的珍珠耳環，相信擁有一副珍珠耳環，就是晉升小香族群的第一步喔!
CHANEL 金屬復古耳環 NT$23,075 一鍵購入
CHANEL金屬LOGO珍珠耳環 NT$21,511 一鍵購入
CHANEL 馬爾他十字垂墜珍珠耳環 NT$28,160 一鍵購入
珍珠金屬垂墜LOGO耳環 NT$65,420 一鍵購入
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CHANEL 粉紅珍珠垂墜耳環 NT$49,896 一鍵購入
CHANEL 鎖鏈幸運草珍珠耳環 NT$29,333 一鍵購入
CHANEL黑色垂墜珍珠耳環 NT$49,896 一鍵購入
CHANEL 黑色小花珍珠耳環 NT$25,999 一鍵購入
CHANEL珍珠ＬＯＧＯ環狀耳環 NT$57,658 ㄧ鍵購入
CHANEL白色珍珠ＬＯＧＯ垂墜耳環 NT$38,254 ㄧ鍵購入
CHANEL之外，珍珠耳環品牌推薦
1 VALENTINO GARAVANI 2 AMBUSH 3 CHLOÉ 4 ALICAN ICOZ 5 GIVENCHY 6 SIMONE ROCHA 7 BOTTEGA VENETA 8 ALIGHIERI 9 RYAN STORER 10 IMAI
無論是典雅白珍珠、質感灰珍珠還是貴氣的粉珍珠，都能襯托溫柔氣質。而各大名牌的珍珠耳環中，更是融入了包含自己品牌標誌和特色的設計，十分有格調和氣場。無論是重要場合的配戴還是日常穿搭的點睛，珍珠耳環都會讓你增色不少，是首飾盒裡不能缺少的一款。除了CHANEL，Vogue為你盤點出13款精品珍珠耳環，一起來看看哪款才是你的命定款吧！
VALENTINO GARAVANI
V-logo faux-pearl & crystal drop earrings
NT$14,940 這裡買
AMBUSH
Drop pearl earring
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CHLOÉ
Darcey earrings
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ALICAN ICOZ
You and Me Pearl earrings
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GIVENCHY
Crystal-embellished baroque-pearl drop earrings
NT$16,160 這裡買
GIVENCHY
Moonlight Pearl earrings
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CHLOÉ
Baroque pearl-drop & crystal earrings
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SIMONE ROCHA
Mismatched mother-of-pearl drop earrings
NT$13,445 這裡買
VALENTINO
Valentino Garavani Logo Earrings
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BOTTEGA VENETA
Monkey pearl & 18kt gold-plated single earring
NT$18,565 這裡買
ALIGHIERI
The Calliope pearl and 24kt gold-plated earrings
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RYAN STORER
Fiji pearl & 14kt gold-vermeil hoop earrings
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IMAI
Baroque XXL earrings
NT$5,131 這裡買