壞天氣、好日子？一只TUDOR帝舵 Pelagos照樣看得清

壞天氣、好日子？一只TUDOR帝舵 Pelagos照樣看得清

人類文明的真正出現，在於夜生活的開始。這並非鼓勵享樂，而是當人們發現了電、有了科技的進步後，將活動時間從白晝延長至黑夜，開啟了無限可能。帝舵（TUDOR）現有Black Shield、Chrono Blue、Ranger與North Flag系列中，強打自製機芯與高辨識度的Pelagos，近期釋出全新視覺形象，再度展現帝舵近10年的專業實力。

無論低光源、惡劣情況下，依然能清楚辨讀時間的TUDOR Pelagos腕表。圖 / TUDOR提供。

雖然Pelagos並非全新系列，但2015年時採用自行研發、耗費更多成本的自製機芯，象徵帝舵自主性、專業表現的又一里程碑。MT5612自動上鍊機芯具備雙向上鍊的自動盤，動力儲存可達70小時、近三天之長。由於具備不受磁性影響、較高階的矽游絲，MT5612也達成了瑞士天文台（COSC）的品質認證。

而有了精準的機芯，穩定可靠的本質，更是信用的加分選項。Tudor Pelagos除了具備500米的強悍防水性能，鈦金屬的表殼與鍊帶更較傳統不鏽鋼重量減少60%，同時42毫米的表面上，小時的刻度以簡潔的三角形、正方形、長方形來區隔，加上夜光塗料，無論低光源、夜間，都能清楚辨讀時間。

簡潔、精準、精密，讓TUDOR Pelagos腕表帶來日常的信任感。圖 / TUDOR提供。

簡單、好使用、好看時間、走時精準，這就是我們對於一只好品質腕表的清楚定義了。

除了黑色表面，TUDOR Pelagos另有藍色表面搭配藍色橡膠表帶的組合。圖 / TUDOR提供。

10隻熱門Tudor手錶入手定價一覽，買帝舵錶新手格價必睇（2020最新價錢）

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10隻熱門Tudor手錶入手定價一覽，買帝舵錶新手格價必睇（2020最新價錢）

10隻熱門Tudor手錶入手定價一覽，買帝舵錶新手格價必睇（2020最新價錢）

Black Bay 筆者客觀地觀察，這幾年見到身邊不少朋友、同行、同事戴Tudor，尤其是Black Bay系列。記得第一枚酒紅色錶圈Black Bay於2012年面世，大受好評，Black Bay自此成為品牌的台柱系列。腕錶復刻自1954年的一款元祖潛水錶，繼承了標誌性的斧頭形指針（又稱雪花針）及圓點時標，復古設計加上親民價位是成功要素之一，另一要素成是它擁有自己風格的潛水錶。而早幾年舊型號的Black Bay，錶盤上的品牌logo是舊時的玫瑰圖案，現役已換成現代的盾牌標誌及搭載自家機芯。 官方售價：$28,400

Black Bay Fifty-Eight 要數近年最受歡迎的Tudor錶，肯定是這枚Black Bay Fifty-Eight，它將Black Bay的復古味發揮得淋漓盡致。啞黑色錶圈上的12時位置重現紅色倒三角，更大改動是錶殼直徑由41mm縮減至39mm，厚度亦大減至11.9mm，一方面更忠於當年元祖潛水錶的神髓，上手感覺亦更貼服舒適。如果還未擁有Black Bay，這枚是不俗的選擇。 官方售價：$27,600

Black Bay P01 又是Tudor另一款叫人另眼相看的作品，腕錶復刻自50多年前品牌為美軍研發的一款潛水軍錶。看腕錶的獨特外殼就知它絕不簡單，它配備昔日元祖錶的專利旋轉外圈鎖定系統，可同時鎖緊雙向旋轉錶圈，潛水時錶圈便不會被外物誤動，確保安全的潛水計時模式。錶面繼續有Tudor標誌性的斧頭針，還有復古迷大愛的微黃圓點時標；最搶眼的地方，是錶殼造型及線條變得更粗獷及突出，猶如軍用級潛水設備，戴上手豪邁有型。 官方售價：$29,900

Pelagos 連績說了好幾枚Black Bay，其實Tudor還有另一款潛水錶Pelagos，有別於Black Bay，Pelagos特意用上較輕的鈦金屬錶殼及鏈帶，再配上昔日Oyster Prince Submariner Ref.9401的正方形時標，帶來非常經典復古的設計。筆者個人特別推介左手版Pelagos LHD，錶冠特別設於錶殼右邊，是品牌於七十年代為法國海軍潛水員而設的錶款，皆因他們左手戴滿潛水儀器，唯有將錶戴在右手。米色夜光方形時標及指針極有味道，復古感覺更為濃烈。 官方售價：$34,400

Black Bay Bronze 大哥勞力士堅持傳統，主打貴金屬及精鋼。細佬Tudor則勇於嘗試嶄新物料，2016年Tudor大膽造了銅錶Black Bay Bronze，錶殼會隨時間出現綠鏽，再襯上啡色錶圈及錶面，成為當年的市場焦點；錶面設計也跟之前的Black Bay稍有不同，加入了「3-6-9」阿拉伯數字，並非全圓點時標。去年第二代銅錶換上啞面石板灰色錶圈及錶面，與錶殼的青銅色澤極為相襯，加上錶面的漸變色效果，看上去低調型格。 官方售價：$31,100

Black Bay Chrono Dark 買熱門的勞力士運動錶款要乖乖排隊是常識吧，但想不到要買Tudor這枚黑魂Black Bay Chrono Dark也一樣，可見它的搶手程度！腕錶用上啞黑色磨砂錶鋼殼及鋼帶，就連錶圈、錶冠及計時按鈕也完全黑化，上手極冷酷有型。這也是Tudor首次推出限量腕錶，暫時推出 1,181隻，與紐西蘭國家欖球隊 All Blacks 於1884年成立至今的球員數目相同，往後有新球員入隊，腕錶數量亦會相應增加。 官方售價：$45,700

Black Bay Chrono S&G 老實說金鋼錶一向予人有點老成的印象，但在這枚Black Bay Chrono S&G身上，你不會感覺到絲毫老氣。腕錶採傳統計時錶的雙盤佈局，配上黃金錶冠及計時按鈕，黑色錶圈上面刻有金色數字及刻度，這個黑金two-tone配搭相當搶眼。精采之處是配色，啞黑色錶面配上兩個香檳金色小盤，散發陣陣懷舊味道，高貴氣度與復古味平衡得相當不錯。想將腕錶本來的懷舊味變得更濃，必襯棕色仿古皮帶或棕色真皮bund strap（拆卸式軍錶帶）。 官方售價：$43,300

Tudor人氣急升，意想不到的是Tudor這款Black Bay GMT同樣一錶難求，市場不說謊，要買這枚GMT是要乖乖留名排隊的。誰不想手上戴著最新的紅藍雙色錶圈，既然大哥的GMT-Master II遙不可及，不如入手細佬的Black Bay GMT，3萬元又靚又抵，想知多一點Tudor歷史及這枚Black Bay細節，必讀「排隊都要買Tudor？細數Tudor「百事圈」GMT」

North Flag 不少人忽略了這枚North Flag，很是可惜，其實它是品牌的一款重要作品，屬Tudor首款搭載自家機示芯的腕錶，之後品牌更多的腕錶也陸續配備in-house機芯。腕錶除了有一副復古的面孔，6時位置設有動力儲備顯，錶背更破天荒用上藍寶石水晶底蓋，讓大家一睹品牌獲得COSC 認證的機芯。 官方售價：$28,800

Heritage Ranger 於2014年面世的Heritage Ranger，是否有點熟口熟面，腕錶無疑有點像大哥勞力士Explorer，但襯上Tudor自家的玫瑰標誌、箭形時針、紅色秒針，再襯上一條迷彩NATO帶，為腕錶注入潮味，上手又是另一般的感覺。當然，平易近人的錶價亦是另一吸引力。 官方售價：$20,100

Fastrider Black Shield Fastrider Black Shield是Tudor另一計時錶款，雖然今日被Black Bay Chrono搶去不少風頭，但若你始終鐘情三小盤布局的話，大可揀這枚性格之選。腕錶用上黑陶瓷錶殼及錶圈，再襯上鮮豔的計時圈，上手的搶眼其實不輸Black Bay Chrono。 官方售價：$37,800

Heritage Chrono 如果說Black Bay系列是現時Tudor最亮眼的新星，那麼Heritage Chrono絕對是Tudor再受大家注目的幕後功臣，意義舉足輕重。腕錶復刻自Tudor傳奇計時錶Ref.7159 及Ref.7169，於七十年代以獨特的設計及用色走紅，其錶面有如賭場輪盤，亦令它有「Monte Carlo」之匿稱（亞洲錶迷則稱它為「花面貓」），到今日這款古董錶依然受腕錶收藏家歡迎。來到現代，新錶也走出大哥勞力士的影子，不再採用日期放大鏡，傳統鋼帶以外，也可選襯織紋錶帶，令它成為一款既復古又充滿活力的sports watch。 官方售價：$33,900 （Photos from Instagram）

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Review of Tudor North Flag from Baselworld 2015 -

In the past, Tudor had often been overlooked by many collectors, especially since it was often overshadowed by Rolex. However, Tudor has grown tremendously under Davide Cerrato (Tudor’s Head of Marketing and Product Development) with their new design directions and creations int he recent years. With that, Tudor is emerging as a great threat to many brands in the modestly-priced sector. This time round, Tudor tried something bolder and took it a step further by launching the North Flag.

We did a short feature on the new Tudor North Flag when it was first launched in Baselworld a few weeks back. The North Flag represents, as mentioned, a huge leap forward in terms of the branding and technological prowess of Tudor. To begin with, the North Flag features the first in-house movement made by Tudor themselves. What is even more amazing is the fact that the movement is chronometer certified. As compared to the use of ETA movements in their previous watches, this bold move by Tudor is certainly changing our perspective towards the brand itself.

Before we continue further, we thought that it will be good to clarify our stand on the use of ETA movements in watches. There is absolutely nothing wrong in using ETA movements: they are reliable, and they are the reason why some watches are able to keep their prices relatively affordable. However, there is always this pre-conceived notion that an in-house movement is definitely better than an ETA movement. Of course, if the in-house movement is well-made, it definitely value-adds to a horological device. But if the watchmaker does a terrible job in producing an in-house movement, we thought that it will definitely be better to stick to the ETA counterparts. So, which side does the North Flag stands? Well, until we (or other collectors) start to utilize this timepiece, there is not many convincing way to tell whether Tudor had made a right move here. But on paper, things certainly does look good at the moment.

Now, back to the watch itself. Our fellow writer, Nick Gould, covered this piece a few weeks back when the North Flag was first unveiled to the public. Like many, there were different takes on this timepiece. Nick thought that the watch looks rather cool. However, some of us thought that it was a little ordinary. Somehow, we were not really excited by how the North Flag looks. Perhaps we were expecting more, after Tudor released some rather good looking timepieces in the past few years (think of the Black Bay, the Ranger, and the Monte Carlo Heritage Chrono). The North Flag, in terms of aesthetics, somehow fell flat a little.

The North Flag features a 40mm stainless steel case, and it comes in either a stainless steel bracelet or a black leather strap with yellow stitching. The watch features two complications: a power reserve indicator and a date display. It is a nice touch, especially since this was their debut in making in-house movements. Legibility, like the Ranger, is very good. The dial is rather clean, and the indices and hands are rather big as well.

We felt the watch is equally comfortable on both the leather strap and the bracelet. However, in terms of aesthetics, we thought the watch looks better in the bracelet somehow. That is probably attributed to the fact that the watch case integrates better with the bracelet, instead of the leather strap. Also, we thought the the bracelet’s quality is rather excellent. It somehow feels quite solid and robust, just like Rolex’s Oyster bracelets.

Now, we are at the main selling point of this timepiece: the movement. The watch is powered by Tudor’s in-house MT5621. The automatic movement is COSC certified, and it features a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. As mention, it also features a power reserve indicator, as well as a date indicator. Another interesting feature would be the use of silicon balance spring, in which it is non-magnetic. We thought that it was a great move by Tudor to include some complications to its first in-house movement. It would definitely have been much more simpler (and cheaper) to create a basic movement that is not COSC-certified. Kudos to Tudor on this aspect.

However, there is a lack of high-end finishing on the watch. This is perhaps attributed to the fact that it is a workhorse movement, and it is there to get the job done without being too fanciful. In fact, it is pretty decent in terms of performance and complications. This goes in line with the price point that Tudor is offering.

In our opinion, the Tudor North Flag represents great value for money. It is an interesting and great attempt for Tudor, especially since it is their first try at making a timepiece with an in-house movement. For budding collectors, this is one of the watches to look out for if you want a Swiss made timepiece that is relatively affordable with an in-house movement. The in-house movement is a great move for Tudor, and it can be a wonderful platform for better things to come. We will certainly be keeping our eyes peeled on their novelties next year.

The leather strap model will retail at US$3,550, while the bracelet model will cost US$3,650.

Specifications from Press Release

TUDOR NORTH FLAG

REFERENCE 91210N

CASE

Type Monobloc middle case, open back with sapphire crystal

and screw-down winding crown

Diameter 40 mm

Material 316L stainless steel, satin finish

Bezel Double bezel in steel and matt black ceramic

Winding crown Screw-down, double waterproofness system

Crystal Scratch-resistant sapphire

Waterproofness 100 metres (330 feet)

BRACELETS

Material: 316L stainless steel, satin finish or black leather with yellow stitching

and yellow leather lining

Clasp Folding clasp and safety catch

DIAL

Colour Black, matt finish

Hour markers White hour markers with white luminescent material, black flange with white

minute markers and yellow marking for the 5-minute intervals

Hands White hour and minute hands with white luminescent material, yellow directdrive

second hand and black power reserve disc with white painted hand

MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT TUDOR MT5621

Calibre: MT5621, Manufacture TUDOR

Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system

Precision: Swiss Chronometer Officially Certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)

Functions Centre hour, minute and seconds hands

Instantaneous date with rapid setting without non-correction range

Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Power reserve indicator via disc

Oscillator Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw

Non-magnetic silicon balance spring

Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)

Total diameter 33.8 mm

Thickness 6.5 mm

No Of Jewels: 28 jewels

Power reserve Approximately 70 hours