C'est du ball-trap sur cible vivante : quand la chasse en enclos choque, même parmi les chasseurs

“C’est du ball-trap sur cible vivante” : quand la chasse en enclos choque, même parmi les chasseurs

Un sanglier sur un terrain en Sologne (illustration). (ANTOINE LORGNIER / ONLY FRANCE VIA AFP)

C’est une forme de chasse dénoncée par de nombreux chasseurs : les battues à l’intérieur d’enclos grillagés sont pointées du doigt. “Carnage cynégétique” pour les uns, respect du droit de propriété pour les autres… En Sologne, terre privilégiée de ce type de chasse, la question divise.

Raymond Louis porte ce combat contre la chasse en enclos. Cela fait 23 ans que ce chasseur a créé l’association les amis des chemins de Sologne. Il ne supporte plus la multiplication des clôtures qui dénaturent le paysage forestier, selon lui, comme ici, près de La Motte-Beuvron : “Vous voyez, là c’est une clôture de chasse qui fait environ 2,30 mètres de hauteur. On dirait plutôt un camp militaire qu’une propriété de chasse. Il y a un grillage qui monte donc jusqu’à deux mètres, avec quatre fils barbelés, ce n’est quand même pas beau à voir.”

Vous voyez, là, c’est la laie meneuse. Il y a toute la tribu derrière. Tout ça derrière la clôture, on se croirait devant un zoo. Raymond Louis à franceinfo

Il y a plus de 3 000 kilomètres de ces grillages en Sologne. Les membres de l’association y retrouvent régulièrement des biches ou chevreuils morts coincés. Les sangliers non plus ne peuvent pas passer : “C’est donc dans ces miradors qu’il y a le chasseur, c’est vraiment de l’abattage qu’ils font. C’est du ball-trap sur cible vivante.”

Attention : cette image est susceptible de heurter votre sensibilité.

Cliquez ici pour l’afficher. Gibier mort coincé dans des clôtures. (LES AMIS DES CHEMINS DE LA SOLOGNE)

Dans ces propriétés fermées, le gros gibier est quelques fois importé, le plus souvent nourri. Lors des chasses, des rabatteurs dirigent sangliers et cervidés vers les miradors, d’où ils sont abattus, parfois trop massivement aux yeux d’Hubert-Louis Vuitton, président de la fédération départementale des chasseurs du Loir-et-Cher. Il a lui-même participé à ce genre de chasse : “D’un côté, c’est vrai que c’est agréable, on voit beaucoup de gibier. Mais comme il y a beaucoup de gibier, ça tire beaucoup. Quand vous entendez pendant un quart d’heure la pétarade, franchement, même en tant que chasseur, je préfère descendre de mon mirador et rentrer chez moi.”

Ce qui me choque, c’est d’avoir ces quantités de gibier, étalés à droite à gauche, dans le sang. Je m’excuse, mais non, ce n’est pas beau, ce n’est pas la chasse. Hubert-Louis Vuitton à franceinfo

Selon l’association des amis des chemins de Sologne, près de 300 sangliers et cervidés ont été abattus en trois heures il y a quelques semaines dans un domaine du Loiret.

Des chasseurs fortunés, aux nombreux privilèges

Ces pratiques de chasse sont légales. On peut chasser dans ce qu’on appelle un “enclos cynégétique”, une propriété grillagée avec habitation et on y bénéficie même de “privilèges”, comme c’est officiellement indiqué. “Vous pouvez par exemple mettre des céréales pour nourrir les populations de grand gibier. Par ailleurs, les chasseurs ne sont pas soumis aux plans de chasse, ça veut dire que vous pouvez chasser le nombre d’animaux que vous le souhaitez, explique Jean-Noël Rieffel, qui dirige l’Office français de la biodiversité Centre-Val-de-Loire. Enfin, vous n’êtes pas soumis à la période de chasse. Vous pouvez chasser toute l’année.”

Attention : cette image est susceptible de heurter votre sensibilité.

Cliquez ici pour l’afficher. Tableau d’une chasse dans le Loiret fin 2019. (LES AMIS DES CHEMINS DE LA SOLOGNE)

Seule contrainte, ne pas avoir plus d’un ongulé par hectare, mais les moyens de contrôler sont limités. Le député La République en marche (LREM) du Cher François Cormier-Bouligeon a donc rédigé une proposition de loi pour interdire ces chasses en enclos, selon lui essentiellement le fait de quelques riches familles : “Des grandes fortunes françaises sont venues acheter des grandes propriétés en Sologne pour pouvoir y organiser des weekends, entre ‘happy few’, non pas de chasse, mais de carnages cynégétiques. Or moi, je suis naturellement favorable à la chasse, à condition que ce soit la chasse d’animaux sauvages, qui ont la possibilité de s’enfuir.”

Ces “grandes fortunes”, visées par ce député, sont souvent de grands patrons, passionnés de chasse : les dirigeants des groupes Bic, de Petit Forestier, le coiffeur Franck Provost… S’ils grillagent leurs forêts, c’est surtout pour éviter les intrusions humaines, expliquent certains. Pour Olivier Dassault, héritier et député, la clôture est avant tout une garantie de gibier : “C’est important aussi lorsque l’on a des invités importants, de pouvoir leur faire passer une bonne journée.”

On n’aime pas inviter des amis et qu’ils n’aient pas la possibilité de lâcher au moins une ou deux balles dans la journée. Olivier Dassault à franceinfo

Olivier Dassault dit organiser des chasses où 30 à 50 ongulés sont abattus. Son voisin, Benjamin Tranchant, président du groupe de casinos, ne voit pas en quoi tuer beaucoup de sangliers, considérés comme nuisibles, serait un problème.

Olivier Dassault, en février 2021. (JEROME JADOT / RADIO FRANCE)

Si ces patrons sont critiqués, c’est surtout parce qu’ils font des envieux, estime le chef d’entreprise : “C’est devenu en fait une lutte des classes. Il y a une question de jalousie. Ces gros tableaux de chasse [tous ces animaux tués], ça les rend dingues. Et puis ça arrange bien tout le personnel, qui éventuellement serait licencié si demain on devait abaisser nos clôtures ou les enlever. C’est nous qui faisons vivre la Sologne. Si on n’était pas là, qu’est-ce qu’elle deviendrait leur Sologne ?”

Au-delà des crispations liées à la chasse et son éthique, ces clôtures posent aussi une question écologique. Pour l’Office français de la biodiversité, ces grillages freinent la circulation des grands animaux, limitent la diversité génétique, accroissent les risques d’épizootie et favorisent piétinement et appauvrissement des sols.

How Jewelers Rose to the Occasion in 2021

They were the talismans we held tight, connecting us to the loved ones we couldn’t see. They were symbols of faith that we would be dressing up for parties soon. They were our only visible flourishes on work-from-home Zoom calls. During a year of disorder and heartache, jewelry delivered more than a few feel-good moments.

The industry swiftly adapted. Auction houses became vibrant e-commerce platforms, and jewelers deepened client relationships by bringing gems directly to their homes. Designers also rose to the occasion, using their gifts to craft relevant work and help those in need.

Aficionados, in turn, shopped. In the early days of the pandemic, Sotheby’s sold a Car­tier Tutti Frutti bracelet for $1.34 million, the most ever paid for a piece of jewelry online. Just months later, Christie’s broke that record with a 28-carat diamond that sold for $2.1 million. That was only the beginning—the shopping spree of 2020 ran the gamut. Some bought whimsical charms and symbolic pendants; ­others invested in gems to put away for the future, deciding that this was the time to finally check items off their wish lists. Together, these were affirmations of the enduring power and significance of jewelry in good times—and bad.

In a year when jewelry could have felt trivial, the industry instead proved mighty. In lieu of our annual Jewelry Awards, T&C salutes those artists and mavericks, not just for surviving 2020 but for reigniting our passion for the truly precious, personal, and lasting. Bravo to all.

Illustration by Marcos Chin

Leader of the Pack

By Erik Maza

Lauren Harwell Godfrey. Ella Sophie

When T&C polled the crew we affectionately call our Jewelry Mafia, one name came up again and again: Lauren Harwell Godfrey. The California designer epitomized the fusion of style and substance by donating profits from her signature black onyx broken heart charm to the NAACP. “While jewelry can seem frivolous, this was a moment it became relevant and actionable,” says T&C contributor Will Kahn. More than $100,000 later, Godfrey says, “This isn’t even close to over yet.”

Harwell Godfrey X Muzo Totem necklace ($105,100), HARWELLGODFREY.COM Chad Johnson and The Commercial

More Action Heroes

By Leena Kim

In a year of instability and upheaval, it was remarkable to see how quickly the industry mobilized to support those in need. Actress (and newly minted jewelry star) Cynthia Erivo channeled her impeccable taste into curating a collection of charms for charity. Nearly 100 jewelers pledged to donate a portion of their proceeds to the hungry. A legend of mid­century jewelry design inspired a scholarship fund for young Black talent. And sales of sapphire rings helped doctors in their fight against the coronavirus. During our darkest hour, these individuals showed us the way.

Cynthia Erivo X Muse Loveland Foundation The actress edited a suite of charms for Muse’s Have a Heart collection and dedicated 10% of sales to the Loveland Foundation. HOLLY DYMENT FOR HAVE A HEART X MUSE ($4,050), musexmuse.com Have a Heart collection

Brent Neale No Kid Hungry In addition to donating 30% of her jewelry sales to feeding the needy, Brent Neale Winston also made a personal contribution to the nonprofit. ONE-OF-A-KIND GYPSY RING, net-a-porter.com NET-A-PORTER

Art Smith Memorial Scholarship Fund This $50,000 endowment at FIT for Black students, which was funded by a group of 50 brands, was named for the trailblazing 20th-century designer. LAVA BRACELET, c. 1946, brooklynmuseum.org ESTATE OF ARTHUR MONES/BROOKLYN MUSEUM

Ana Khouri Doctors Without Borders The Brazilian designer created a sapphire ring exclusively for pandemic relief—100% of sales went to the healthcare organization. BLUE SAPPHIRE MIRIAN RING ($7,074), anakhouri.com Ana Khouri

What Our Friends Loved

KEVIN KWAN, author: “The Paraiba tourmalines of the Zurich-based Doris Hangartner, whose designs are so captivating I featured one of her necklaces in a scene in my most recent novel, Sex and Vanity.” DORIS HANGARTNER MOUNTAIN OF LIGHT RING, DORISHANGARTNER.COM DEBRA MESSING, actress: “I immediately fell in love with the Bulgari Serpenti Collection, because it’s so wearable. The way it’s done here feels effortless, chic, and luxe.” BULGARI HIGH JEWELRY SERPENTI WATCH, 800-BULGARI LAW ROACH, stylist: “I am a huge fan of Matthew Harris of Mateo New York. His work is simple and perfect, a tough combination to pull off that he has come to master.” MATEO NEW YORK SPIRAL RING ($2,875), MATEONEWYORK.COM LYNN YAEGER, writer: “The brilliantly quirky Canadian-based designer Holly Dyment, who died last year, actually made one of her signature enamel brooches of my face surrounded by black diamonds!” HOLLY DYMENT BROOCH ($5,800), MUSEXMUSE.COM LAUREN SANTO DOMINGO, co-founder of Moda Operandi: “Sophie Buhai’s thoughtful designs couldn’t be more of the moment, as the style of fashion changes away from ruffles and florals toward simple lines and modern silhouettes.” SOPHIE BUHAI EARRINGS ($595), MODAOPERANDI.COM JORDAN ROTH, producer: “Kiff Slemmons’s handmade paper bracelets, crafted in collaboration with the Oaxacan artisans of Arte Papel, are a meditation on this moment, a way of connecting even though we’re so disconnected.” ARTE PAPEL VISTA HERMOSA, DESIGNS BY KIFF SLEMMONS (FROM $50), GALLERYLOUPE.COM LIZZIE TISCH, entrepreneur: ”Muse’s Have a Heart collaboration for Citymeals on Wheels. An indulgence right now needs to be personally meaningful and socially impactful.” HAVE A HEART X MUSE MULTICHARM NECKLACE ($57,805), MUSEXMUSE.COM LISA EISNER, designer: “Gold nuggets. The ones I love are from Australia or the Yukon. The best thing to do is let them shine on their own, like on a 22K necklace—untouched perfection straight out of the earth.” LISA EISNER JEWELRY NECKLACE ($42,895), LISAEISNERJEWELRY.COM MELANIE GRANT, author: “A cuff by Fawaz Gruosi in amber, a humble prehistoric material, and emeralds, amethyst, and gold. There is a certain purity to the bareness of the design. It’s a triumph of scale and artistry.” FAWAZ GRUOSI BRACELET ($157,800), FAWAZGRUOSI.COM

Now Streaming: Jewelry

By Erik Maza

Beyoncé’s Black Is King exalted major jewels, including work by Area (left) and Lisa Eisner, who made Jay-Z’s citrine and gold necklace. Andrew White / Parkwood Entertainment ; Disney+

“When they talk about the lights that guide the way, this is them!” Stylist Zerina Akers was referring to the image above, from ­Beyoncé’s visual album Black Is King, which indeed arrived like a supernova of beauty, talent, and vision during a dark summer. The Maryland-born costume designer could have said the same of all the jewelry she put on display: rope necklaces by Laurel DeWitt, armlets by L’Enchanteur, and earrings by Lorraine West, Sarah Diouf’s Tongoro, and A-Morir Studio. In doing so, the founder of the shopping directory Black Owned Everything also used her (and Bey’s) most ambitious canvas yet as a platform to lift up other creatives of color.

Lorraine West jewelry abstract palette earrings in brass ($592), 1stdibs.com Courtesy Lorraine West Jewelry

The Real Wonder Woman

By Leena Kim

Elsa Peretti Horst P. Horst

For Wonder Woman, jewelry is essential for survival: Her tiara doubles as a weapon, and her bracelets shield her from enemy fire. But what of her off-duty hardware? In the new Wonder Woman 1984, her alter ego Diana Prince wears the Bone Cuff created in 1970 by Elsa Peretti. For the cuff’s 50th anniversary, Tiffany & Co. reissued the designer’s most coveted originals for the first time in nearly 20 years, cementing the now 80-year-old Peretti’s status as modern jewelry’s very own superhero.

Tifany & Co. Elsa Peretti mesh bib necklace in 18K gold with tumbled emerald bead ($35,000), Tiffany.com Courtesy Tiffany & Co.

The iconic Bone Cuff is in the spotlight again—on Gal Gadot’s wrist in Wonder Woman 1984. Warner Bros. Entertainment

The Other Small Screen Scene Stealers

By Erik Maza

Not the Oscar winner, the NBA MVP, or the Hulu heartthrob. It was the jewels they wore that we couldn’t stop binge-watching.

THE UNDOING By now we know who did “it.” But learn the name of the woman behind the rings and earrings worn by Nicole Kidman’s character: Rebecca Elbek. THE CROWN The Spencer tiara is almost as famous as Princess Di herself, and its turn in season 4 was as convincing as Emma Corrin’s acclaimed performance. NORMAL PEOPLE Paul Mescal’s Connell, in Hulu’s adaptation, became the internet’s boyfriend, but it was his chain necklace that had us panting. LEBRON JAMES The basketball great just won his fourth championship. Off the court he’s an MVP watch collector of Patek Philippe, Richard Mille, and Rolex. MICHELLE OBAMA The V-O-T-E necklace worn by the former first lady at the DNC was a gold-plated civics lesson, and it helped out an upstart label, LA’s ByChari.

We Might Have Dreamed About These

By Olivia Hosken

But they did happen, thanks to these technical wizards. Francesca Amfitheatrof brought us the stars in sapphires and diamonds, and Lucia Silvestri painted Baroque frescoes in sapphires and rubies. Reed Krakoff exalted colored gemstones, and Boucheron somehow pulled off feathers—in white gold and diamonds.

BOUCHERON Boucheron Contemplation Plume de Jour Question Mark necklace, us.boucheron.com BULGARI HIGH JEWELRY Bulgari High Jewelry Barocko earrings, 800-bulgari TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany & Co. 2021 Tiffany High jewelry collection colors of nature ring, tiffany.com LOUIS VUITTON Louis Vuitton Lune Bleue necklace, 866-vuitton

There’s a Cat in the White House

By Olivia Hosken

The Clintons’ cat Socks, one of the most recent felines to grace the Oval Office. Smith Collection/Gado

And maybe also on your wrist? Felines have been associated with power ever since they accompanied ancient Egyptian pharaohs, and one will join the Bidens in their DC domicile. But it wasn’t a house pet that caught Car­tier jewelry director Jeanne Toussaint’s eye: It was the panther. Now the figurehead of Cartier’s oeuvre, La Panthère made its first full appearance in 1917, on Toussaint’s personal cigarette case. Several trips to the Paris zoo and one panther fur coat later, Toussaint designed the Panthère emerald brooch for Wallis Simpson in 1948—and socialites all over the world pounced. Today the inimitable big cat appears in geometric white gold covered in diamonds, with glowing emerald eyes—an architectural triumph for the ­modern head of the pride.

Cartier Panthere De Cartier bracelet, 800-Cartier © Maxime Govet @ CARTIER

Our Great Protectors

By Olivia Hosken

This evil eye, an ancient symbol of protection, is from AD 2.

Any trinket can be a lucky charm, but a true amulet carries some serious mojo all its own, like Verdura’s Hayden Planetarium–­inspired Zodiac and Lito’s Pop Art evil eye.

SEWIT SIUM Coral Power Claw Necklace ($325), SewitSium.com VERDURA Gold and Diamond Zodiac Pendant necklace–leo ($7,950), Verdura.com MONICA RICH KOSANN 18k Yellow Gold Queen Bee Charm with Diamonds ($950), MonicaRichKosann.com L ITO Grand Vert bracelet in 14k Yellow Gold and Enamel with Diamonds ($4,600), LitoFineJewelry.com

This story appears in the February 2021 issue of Town & Country.

A Valentine’s Gift Guide For The Romantics And The Clueless

This Valentine’s Day gift guide serves as a general idea on what to get for your loved ones. Of course, you should know your lover best, and therefore be able to know if your partner is even into the whole commercial idea of Valentine’s Day, and needing a gift guide to begin with.

For some, Valentine’s Day is every day, and, Valentine’s Day need not only be celebrated among lovers, it can be an extension for love between other individuals in your life as well – like a close friend, or even a pet.

That being said, we begin this Valentine’s Day gift guide with gifts which would be deemed a cliche. But remember, cliches are such for a reason, and for some it works as a base gift, a must-have on top of other pampering sessions or gifts.

Flowers

It’s a time where we usually see the prices for florals hike, but that won’t stop us from getting these lovely bouquets for those we really cherish. Thankfully, even with the MCO in place – if you’re staying more than 10KM away from your intended recipient – you can still get flowers delivered to your loved ones via Happy Bunch.

With prices starting from RM89, RM129 and RM169 respectively, choose between 3 classic luxe arrangements of premium Red Roses – ​Cupid Bunch​, ​Aphrodite Bunch​ and ​Valentine Bunch​. Plus, you can also include a gift box for your loved ones as well, and not to mention, each purchase also comes with a complimentary sample size perfume spray. lingerie (or underwear) This one, we’ll leave to your imagination, and try not to get in trouble by posting pictures. Although it might be slightly difficult to purchase at the moment – unless you don’t mind using a personal shopper service (and letting them know exactly what you’re buying.) One of our favourite brands would be Calvin Klein, which caters for both men and women. A romantic meal Obviously a home-cooked meal would be the most ideal. However, if you’re far away (read: more than 10KM) from your lover, or you just had enough of cooking and want to pamper your loved one (or even yourself) then you would want to check out the many food options made available, especially for Valentines. Maria’s SteakCafe is one such restaurant that is offering a delectable spread for this Valentine’s. So if you’re in the mood for some Western, check out their menu. chocolates (or other sweet treats) I Heart You Chocolates by Marks & Spencer Loved Up Lollies by Marks & Spencer 1 2 While more commonly associated as a gift for the ladies, chocolates work well for a rather large number of people, you almost can’t go wrong, almost. As the disclaimer above stated, you should know your partner best – he/she might have a preference for dark chocolate instead of white (which is essentially not chocolate), or he or she might even be allergic to chocolate (what a miserable life.) What ever the sweet treat your other half desires, we’re pretty sure there’s be something available from the Marks & Spencer food hall. On top of that, you can also make full use of the brand’s personal shopper, so you can stay safe at home while your purchases are delivered to your partner. fragrances Nina Ricci - Nina Rouge (for her) Carolina Herrera - 212 Heroes (for him) Gucci - Guilty (for him and her) BOSS - The Scent (for her) BOSS - The Scent (for him) 1 2 3 4 5 This one can be rather tricky, depending how long you two have known each other. Are you absolutely sure of the scent you’re about to pick? Is it something you want to smell, or something your partner enjoys? Well if you’ve no idea, or are willing to take a chance, the above choices are relatively safe bets to go on. If you’re looking for something similar for the both of you, we’d suggest going for either Gucci Guilty, or The Scent by Boss, as those are complementary perfumes for both him and her. Meanwhile, if you’re looking just to give one scent to your lover, then opt for the whimsical designs of Nina Ricci or Carolina Herrera. Clothing (or accessories)

Dior, Fall Winter 2021-22, menswear Louis Vuitton clutch Gucci earrings Salvatore Ferragamo pumps Burberry scarf Versace necklace 1 2 3 4 5 6

Depending on your budget, and what exactly your partner needs, or wants, clothing and accessories can be a good gift, as it lasts long and would remind the other person of you, when he or she wears the item.

from a full look by Dior, or a Burberry scarf, or perhaps a Versace chain for him; to a clutch, earrings, or maybe even shoes, from Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo for her. these are some of the suggestions that can work.

Watches

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Passion Lily by Garmin 1 2

Whether digital or analog, there are a number of brands out there to be looked at. You should know which one works best for your partner. Our suggestions are the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Passion, which is a dashing mechanical watch for him. For the lady, Garmin’s latest smartwatch, Lily, even sports a pregnancy tracking function.

An experience (or something Positive)

Although difficult during a time like this, there are plenty of online classes, or even a staycation (if there’s a nearby enough hotel or Airbnb) might do the trick.

Speaking of Airbnb, the platform recently partnered with dating app Bumble to provide a list of curated experiences from a sensual night of Tango to wining and dining Italian style to a day filled with Pasta and Chocolate, there’s an experience worth trying for people of all relationship statuses!

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Zoo Negara Malaysia (Official) (@zoonegara_malaysia)

Otherwise, maybe do something noble, like adopting a pet which helps Zoo Negara reduce the cost of the animal’s upkeep. Or even volunteer together to feed the homeless?

alcohol

Hey, it’s been a tough year so far, so we’re not going to judge. Plus gin works well for both men and women. Swap the conventional rose bouquet with a limited-edition Hendrick’s bloom box, a luxurious bloom box of roses with a bottle of Hendrick’s Gin.

With only 10 bloom boxes up for grabs, be first to get your hands on a box at Boozeat and TheGoodstuff. There you have it, some of the best from this Valentine’s gift guide.