如何一眼辨識別人戴哪款勞力士？看「 錶圈 」是最大關鍵
儘管全世界有無數A貨勞力士，但是從遠處判斷勞力士手錶相對簡單，也就是注意手錶最突出的元素之一：錶圈，將透明錶面固定在錶殼上並環繞錶盤的那一圈，它在Rolex的專業錶款中傳遞了美學和功能性。
1926 年，Hans Wilsdorf 創立的公司推出了蠔式腕錶，這是第一款防水腕錶，配備專利旋入式錶圈、底蓋和上鏈錶冠，從而保護了賦予腕錶生命的機芯。今天，表圈的存在不像過去那樣只是單一保護手錶內部功能，如今錶殼的封密性有其他的技術協助達成。
勞力士 裝飾有幾種不同類型的表圈。有些已停產，例如舊款Day-Date的樹皮表圈（Bark，其名稱來自其質地，類似樹皮），或是和以莫爾紋絲綢繪製的波浪為靈感的莫爾紋表圈 ( Moiré Bezel ) 。 以下是現在仍在生產和使用的所有表圈。這樣您就可以了解它們，並從遠處知道您是否看對了世界上最強大的製表品牌。
1.以錶圈材質區分
鋁金屬
鋁圈邊框自 1950 年代開始使用，當時它們是為了取代了電木，這種合成樹脂內部嵌入了半徑數字，重量較輕、相對耐用且易於成型，缺點是很脆弱具有放射性。相對之下，鋁對於日常使用來說足夠堅固，並且可以很容易地模製、塗色和替換，不會有甚麼後遺症。缺點是很容易磨傷，且在陽光、海水和汗水條件中會變色。所以現在幾乎看不到鋁圈Rolex存在。
陶瓷材料
勞力士 Sea-Dweller 腕錶(15.800 €)
勞力士運動錶使用最多的錶圈材質 。它們自 2005 年開始使用，在這一年，這個皇冠標章品牌推出了Cerachrom材料（陶土與鉻金屬燒製），首度使用在GMT-Master II ref 116718LN，這是一款帶有黑色錶圈的金錶。
由於高科技陶瓷非常堅硬，因此防刮、抗腐蝕，並能保持數十年不變。它的生產成本比鋁高，而且手錶從相當高的地方跌落會破裂，但不減其受歡迎度。Cerachrom 錶圈目前使用在Submariner、Sea-Dweller、Daytona和Yacht-Master 等系列中。
不銹鋼
勞力士 Milgauss （7,900 歐元）
雖然它會刮傷，但不像陶瓷那樣會摔裂。Milgauss 款錶圈就是不銹鋼材質。
2.以表圈裝飾區分
光滑的
Rolex 蠔式恆動Perpetual 41 腕錶(5.600 €)
這種樣式不是Rolex最典型特徵，出現在比較傳統的扁平或圓頂表款上。錶圈就只是一片無裝飾的拋光金屬，大多是不鏽鋼、金和鉑金。例如，Oyster Perpetual上的圓頂表圈，其他類似的還有Air-King、Day-Date、Datejust、Explorer和Milgauss。
寶石鑲嵌
勞力士 Cosmograph Daytona Rainbow
另一種平滑錶圈裝飾主要是寶石鑲嵌，尤其是鑽石和各種彩色寶石。就像C羅擁有一支的Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Rainbow，此外其它看得到的類似錶圈裝飾還出現在 31毫米和 36 毫米Datejust，以及 36 和 40 毫米的Day-Dates。
三角刻
Datejust 36 (11.400 €)
最初，這種設計是為了實用，容蠔式外圈的三角坑紋具備實際用途，有助將外圈旋緊固定在錶殼上，確保腕錶的防水性能。而底蓋的坑紋設計亦見基於相同的考量，並以特定的勞力士工具旋緊於錶殼位置。及後，三角坑紋成為一項美學設計元素，更是真正的勞力士特徵。華人喜歡稱這種錶圈為狼牙刻或狼牙圈。近年三角坑紋常用於金質錶圈，就像今年出的Datejust 36，少數例外如Sky-Dweller使用蠔式鋼。
3.以錶圈的功能區分
計時選轉功能
Rolex Submariner (7.700 €)
有分雙向或單向轉轉，這主要出現在勞力士的專業手錶款式，使用在60分鐘內計時功能，而且在錶盤上顯示分鐘刻度。亦即以當時分針指向錶盤分鐘數為計時起點，再轉動符合錶圈預定分鐘數目，活動進行時要判斷持續時間數，就是看分針對著錶圈上哪個刻度。
Rolex家族中使用這種配置最有名的當屬潛水錶Submariner，可以用來監視潛水時間，特別是水肺潛水時要精確估算氧氣筒剩餘可用時間，而且專業深潛還需要緩步浮出水面，讓身體適應水壓，通常減壓時間約需要15分鐘，因此我們看到Submariner錶圈上只有0至15是有分鐘刻度，設想非常周全 。至於遊艇與帆船運動也是可以使用此功能，主要是計算兩個浮標間航行時間，甚至有救災時間計算的需要。
測速輔助
Cosmograph Daytona (12.500 €)
它用於計時碼錶錶 ( 記錄經過時間的手錶），並允許在一定距離內計算高達每小時分成 400 個單位 (每單位 9秒 )的平均速度，以公里或英里表示，主要是運用在賽車運動上。品牌勞力士而言，它唯一的計時碼表是 Cosmograph Daytona，自 2011 年以來一直使用 Cerachrom 陶瓷表圈。
24小時時區
GMT-Master II (9.200 €)
它標有 24 小時制以表示另一個時區。它可以是可旋轉的（如在GMT-Master型號中）或固定（如在Explorer和Explorer II 中）。在 GMT-Master II 的情況下，時針、分針和秒針指示另一時區的參考時間。
Ring Command
Reloj Sky-Dweller, de Rolex (14.100 €)
Ring Command 是品牌專利的設計，機械功能很複雜的錶款才會使用，最早出現於2007年Yacht-Master II上，功能是啟動錶圈與機芯內部結構的機械裝置，所以錶圈旋轉不是用於計時功能，而是透過轉圈搭配錶冠來決定使用到手錶哪個功能，例如日期，本地時間或雙時區等功能，程序複雜就不在此多做解釋，看起來有點難，但對主人來說算是玩錶的樂趣，也可以當成談資。
4.以錶圈顏色辨別款式
彩虹
Rolex Daytona White Gold Rainbow © Alain Costa
錶圈鑲滿各色寶石甚至鑽石，顯示這樣的錶非常昂貴，當它在你的手腕上閃亮時，玫瑰金版Cosmograph Daytona錶圈上就沒有刻度，而是36顆寶石，那就不是拿來測速，是測你的口袋深度了。
Pepsi
50年代中期，Rolex 為不鏽鋼材質的GMT-Master ref. 6542以錶圈顏色為區分的兩款錶，一種是酒紅色，一種是使用紅藍雙色膠木，類似百事可樂商標的兩種配色，就被錶迷暱稱為百事可樂，如今材質改成高科技陶瓷。
Coke
GMT-Master款後來也推出紅黑錶圈組合，有百事，當然就有可口可樂了。
Batman
2019 Rolex GMT-Master II EUR 8,500
這個品牌粉絲滿天下，愛亂取別人搞不懂的暱稱也就不奇怪，黑與藍組合錶圈首次出現在2014年的GMT -Master II。.
本文譯自西班牙版GQ
延伸閱讀
“A solid gold beast” - Conor McGregor flaunts his latest Rolex watch worth around $50,000 on social media
Never one to shy away from boasting about his possessions, Conor McGregor recently displayed one of his most prized assets - the full gold Rolex Yacht-Master II. The luxury watch possibly set him back by $50,000.
‘The Notorious’ took to social media to share a picture of himself sporting the luxurious timepiece. He described the item in the caption, writing:
“The biggest Rolex there is. The yacht master 2. A 44mm size face. Full gold. A solid gold beast with a white face. This one takes me back. Timeless!”
The Yacht-Master II is not the most expensive watch Conor McGregor owns
One of the most eccentric individuals in the combat sports landscape, Conor McGregor has truly created a niche. Having amassed a tremendous amount of wealth owing to his success in the combat sports circuit and thriving businesses, Conor McGregor has a lot of disposable income.
History has seen people with the same affluence as ‘The Notorious’ splurging on countless items that exude luxury. Conor McGregor is no different.
Ahead of his return to the octagon against Dustin Poirier at UFC 257, the Dubliner unveiled another extravagant purchase. Conor McGregor shared the purchase with his fans on Instagram.
A Jacob & Co’s Astronomia Tourbillon Baguette, valued at over a million dollars, is perhaps one of his most prized possessions.
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McGregor accompanied his watch with a suit and a new car to complete his multi-million dollar look. While the Irishman has forever been in the headlines for his relative profligacy, fans tend to enjoy his excesses. It admittedly builds on the hype that has always surrounded Conor McGregor.
Khabib Nurmagomedov: “Send me location!”
Us: Right here!
Edited by Utathya Ghosh
The 16 Best Rolex Watches for Men in 2021
Buyers new to Rolex face mountains of information, which makes getting to know the brand intimidating and confusing, not to mention choosing a model to buy all the more difficult. Today, the catalog of Rolex watches is comprised of 941 individual references, each falling into one of 16 families:
Rolex Submariner
Rolex GMT Master II
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Rolex Sea-Dweller
Rolex Explorer
Rolex Explorer II
Rolex Milgauss
Rolex Air-King
Rolex Yacht-Master
Rolex Yachtmaster II
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Rolex Datejust
Rolex Day-Date
Rolex Pearlmaster
Rolex Sky-Dweller
Rolex Cellini
Here’s everything you need to know about each Rolex watch, including prices (both new and pre-owned), history and, for readers ready to make the leap, handy links to buy them.
This story is part I of a two-part series, The Complete Guide to Rolex. For an in-depth breakdown of every movement, bracelet, clasp and bezel currently offered by the brand, click here.
Submariner
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Current Variations: 8
8 Price: $8,100+
$8,100+ Pre-Owned Price: $9,100+
Rolex and Blancpain were neck in neck in releasing the first dive watches with rotating bezels. However, when in 1953 Rolex put an external diving bezel on a more robust version of their already famously water-resistant Oyster Perpetual, kept the automatic winding in place, and added a sturdy adjustable bracelet, the most iconic and important dive watch in history was born.
It wasn’t really until the 1980s, however, that the Sub became the fashionable item it is now, largely due to preppy folks sporting them as an assertion of an active lifestyle that, more likely, revolved around cocktails at the yacht club. Alas, tool watches became fashion items during this decade, and the rest is horological history.
Rolex understood that their Submariner had ascended from tool to jewel, and so gold, two-tone, and even diamond-encrusted versions cropped up during the decade of materialism. Today, however, it’s the plain steel models that are impossible to come by at retail, and which sell for as much as 25 percent above retail among enthusiasts, while gold models often sit in the display case awaiting adoption. It’s a strange phenomenon, but people around the world are clamoring for steel Subs.
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Shop Pre-Owned Rolex Submariners
GMT-Master II
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Current Variations: 8
8 Price: $9,500+
$9,500+ Pre-Owned Price: $10,000+
When Pan American Airlines ruled the trans-Atlantic skies in the 1950s, Rolex designed the GMT Master for their pilots, who needed to track multiple time zones simultaneously. In 1989, the Crown upgraded to the GMT Master II — a new movement and slimmer case turned out to be big hits as steel and gold models asserted a pitch-perfect jet setting attitude. Plenty of folks knew to rock a Rolex Submariner for maximum panache, but rocking a GMT Master II was a slyly stylish move that demonstrated the owner’s uniqueness. To this day, the GMT Master II emits a reserved eccentricity.
In 2007 Rolex put out an improved GMT Master II with ceramic bezel and a new movement that hosted a suite of modern updates. Since then, it’s been all about metal and color combos, which are judiciously and painfully released at a rate of about one a year, at best. And getting your hands on a steel GMT Master II at retail is nearly impossible. However, the “Batman” (blue and black), “Pepsi” (blue and red), and “Rootbeer” (brown and beige) have all been released to great applause. (Many of us fans are hoping for another “Coke” {black and red} sooner rather than later!)
LEARN MORE
Shop Pre-Owned Rolex GMT-Master IIs
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
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Current Variations: 14
14 Price: $13,150+
$13,150+ Pre-Owned Price: $17,000+
Before the 1960s, Rolex housed third-party chronograph movements in Oyster cases. Then the company upped the case size, redesigned the dial and put out the space-age sounding “Cosmograph.” Shortly thereafter, when the Crown sponsored races at Florida’s famous beach-side track and put its name on the dial, the legend of the Rolex Daytona was born. Though not to much fanfare … that would come later.
Paul Newman’s wife bought him one with a creamy Bauhaus-inspired dial — now called the “Newman” dial — and the famed actor casually gave it to his son-in-law sometime in the 1980s. He auctioned it off for $17.2-million dollars in 2017, making this once humble and unpopular Daytona variant the most expensive wrist watch ever sold.
The auction transformed what was already becoming an increasingly coveted watch into a crazed run on all Daytonas, old and new. Now you can hardly get one at retail, especially in all stainless steel, and the used market for Daytonas of any era in any style or metal with any dial has gone completely berserk. Like so many steel Professional models, the Daytona remains in-demand and sells above retail on the secondhand market — a remarkable result for what was initially an unremarkable watch.
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Shop Pre-Owned Rolex Daytonas
Rolex Sea-Dweller
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Current Variations: 4
4 Price: $11,700
$11,700 Pre-Owned Price: $9,800+
As SCUBA matured beyond surface-level military and recreational uses, commercial, research, and exploratory techniques were developed for going deeper for longer. The Sea-Dweller was Rolex’s answer to the demands for watches capable of withstanding the pressure of these deeper dives. In 1967 upon its initial release, the Sea-Dweller was rated to a depth of 4,000 feet (1,220 meters). In 2007 a newer Sea-Dweller was rated to 12,800 feet (3,900 meters), at the time a record-breaking figure.
The Sea-Dweller is essentially a beefed-up Submariner, but that beefing up shouldn’t be taken lightly: Rolex had to entirely re-engineer the case, the crystal, the case back and more to get this kind of water resistance, so while the Sea-Dweller resembles the Submariner on the outside, the guts are a different animal. Waterproofness in nano-scale wristwatches has turned out to provide useful tech that can be ported over to small submarines, cameras, and other scientific tools that are plumbing the depths of our largely unexplored oceans. Rolex often backs those scientific expeditions, linking the watch and the brand to the essence of professional SCUBA diving.
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Explorer
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Current Variations: 2
2 Price: $6,450+
$6,450+ Pre-Owned Price: $4,300+
This watch had already existed for over two decades as the Oyster Perpetual when Rolex sent one up Mt. Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary’s team for the first successful summiting in 1953. After that, Rolex rearranged the dial somewhat, printed “Explorer” on it, and sold it to a new wave of midcentury mountaineering enthusiasts. The Explorer went on to become an “entry-level” Rolex sport model, due only to price, and remains in that position to this day.
Like all Rolex models, the Explorer has gone through many permutations, including more modern iterations like the 14270 (1989-2001), now popular among vintage collectors because its tritium luminescence has finally turned beige. Rolex upped the case size with the 2002 release of the 39mm Explorer, though since 2021 the Explorer is back down to 36mm, indicating that the trend toward smaller watches is quite real today. In 2021, Rolex shocked us with a two-tone model, bringing gold to the lineup for the first time.
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Explorer II
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Current Variations: 2
2 Price: $8,550+
$8,550+ Pre-Owned Price: $8,000+
A spelunking watch? That’s right. The boldly luminescent 24-hour GMT hand was included to help those living in caves keep track of day and night. While spelunking isn’t exactly a popular sport, the Explorer II became a rather popular watch among those who love a cool design and GMT functionality.
Offered today with either a black or white (“polar”) dial, the Explorer II came out in 1971 in order to “perpetuate the privileged relationship Rolex shares with exploration,” according to current marketing materials. However, the spelunking history is largely forgotten as the watch increasingly serves as a tool for adventurers of all kinds. (The more recent editions — unlike the original — feature fully functional GMT movements, so the watches can be used for tracking second time zones.)
Though the Explorer II went from a tasty 40mm case up to a 42mm “maxi” case in 2011, the reference 216570 was intended to celebrate the original design of 1971, which amounts to an orange GMT hand in the “correct” shape. Those two extra millimeters don’t feel significant on the wrist, however, and only seem significant when compared directly with a 40mm model.
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Milgauss
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Current Variations: 2
2 Price: $8,300+
$8,300+ Pre-Owned Price: $8,700+
In 1956, when the Milgauss came out, the world was abuzz with nuclear research, especially at places like CERN, still the most advanced particle accelerator. Meanwhile, all the incredible technology developed during WWII was being ported to commercial uses, making electrical engineers one of the most important professional groups on the planet at the time. Rolex gave them what they needed, a watch able to withstand 1,000 (“mil”) gauss (a measure of electromagnetic fields).
Sadly, scientists and engineers aren’t the famous heroes they ought to be, and the Milgauss is the only current Rolex model to go out of production, from 1988 to 2007. However, when the watch returned in 2007, it was a rather exciting surprise for Rolex enthusiasts, and the lightning bolt seconds hand remains the most playful feature of any Rolex model to date. The modern version isn’t entirely impossible to get your hands on at retail, and more than any other Rolex model the Milgauss is the most likely to help you stand out in a crowd. It is, for sure, a watch for those in the know.
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Air-King
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Current Variations: 1
1 Price: $6,450
$6,450 Pre-Owned Price: $3,000+
Like The Explorer, the Air King had existed as the Oyster Perpetual for a long while before Rolex printed “Air King” on the dial and began marketing it to a new set of post-WWII jet setters — men who adored and imitated the former war pilots now flying jumbo jets across the Atlantic. Released in 1945, Rolex’s new model caught that wave of enthusiasm for the future, and nothing at that moment said “future” like beautiful commercial jets that turned a weekend jaunt across the ocean to Paris, New York, Rome, or London into a reality.
Interesting tid-bit: the 34mm case was considered large at the time, and that’s why it was called the King. Today’s model is 40mm across, and carries one of the most divisive dials in Rolex’s catalog (along with that of the Sky-Dweller). Admittedly, the intermittent hour and minute markers on the modern Air King are visually unique (for some, jarring), as are the touches of green and yellow, which have no discernable significance.
For today’s Rolex enthusiasts, the Air King is positioned at the bottom of the Professional series watches. However, you can get an Air King at retail relatively easily, and that’s almost impossible to say of any other all steel model on the Professional side of the catalog. A bird in hand beats two in the bush.
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Yacht-Master
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Current Variations: 12
12 Price: $11,250+
$11,250+ Pre-Owned Price: $5,500+
By the 1980s, the Rolex Submariner had come out in gold, and preppy folks around the world were rocking them as status symbols. Rolex kind of punched the preppy class on the nose with the all-gold Yacht Master of 1992. Interestingly, the Yacht Master’s evolution has been one of increased sportiness and reduced bling since its release — not the common direction for Rolex’s evolution. The toning down of glamor and upping of ruggedness has made the Yacht Master a bit of a sleeper model in the Rolex catalog, but it is every bit as capable as the Submariner, which it resembles.
In 1999 Rolex offered the Yacht Master in platinum and steel (reference 16622), and from there it’s been an endless riffing on precious metal combinations (though never has an all-stainless steel model emerged). Todays' Yacht Master is 42mm or smaller, and the watch carries all the latest Rolex technology inside and out. Distinguishing features include the “relief” ceramic bezel, and the Oysterflex rubber strap, which is surprisingly luxurious and durable on the wrist.
What has always seemed lacking, however, is a timing mechanism specific to racing a sailboat, usually a 10-minute timer of some kind that’s activated when the starting gun goes off. However, given the watch’s roots as a schmancy timepiece for hanging around the docks in style, the less utilitarian design makes sense.
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Yachtmaster II
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Current Variations: 4
4 Price: $18,750+
$18,750+ Pre-Owned Price: $18,000+
Now we’re talking serious sailboat racing technology, with one of Rolex’s more sophisticated movements featuring a ten-minute countdown stopwatch complication, running seconds on a traditionally placed subdial above 6-o’clock, a large 42mm case, a ceramic bezel, 300m of water resistance and more yachting style than any other sailing watch on the market.
The Ring Command bezel allows one to select between one to ten minutes to be timed. (However, as a sailor who used to race on pretty big boats, I can attest that the two-handed moves required by this mechanism are entirely unsuited to the dangerous scenarios of crewing in a race, especially during the start when things are truly hectic.) Nonetheless, this is one of Rolex’s coolest and most complicated mechanisms (along with that of the Sky-Dweller), and most people aren’t actually crewing on real racing boats — or climbing mountains, or flying jets, or SCUBA diving, though those watches all sell out fast, too.
Released in 2010, the Yacht Master II is the latest new model from Rolex, and it has yet to gain historical significance. As such, they’re more readily available at retail, and for those who dig the maritime vibe and the cool movement, the Yacht Master II is a hit.
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Oyster Perpetual
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Current Variations: 32
32 Price: $5,100+
$5,100+ Pre-Owned Price: $2,000+
In many ways, this is the watch that launched Rolex as the king of industrial watchmaking. The “OP” was, upon its release in 1950, both highly water-resistant and automatically wound, a first-time combo. “Perpetual” refers not to it being always wound, but to its rotor swinging 360 degrees around a central axis — so, perpetually winding (despite it only winding in one direction). But none of that matters much to end users, who adore these waterproof watches for their durability and midcentury, function-forward appearance.
The Oyster Perpetual has perpetually been in production since then, and this model formed the basis for most other Rolex models, including the famous Submariner, the Explorer, the Air King, the Datejust and the Day-Date. Today’s Oyster Perpetual comes in many sizes, many colors, and is one of the few all-steel models readily available (except in new colorways, which seem to sell out fast for about a year after release).
With no date, no cyclops, no complications, no fluted gold bezel, and a sleek case polished to a high mirror finish, the “OP” is a pure expression of the Rolex brand, one that’s instantly recognizable despite it lacking some key iconic visual cues.
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Datejust
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Current Variations: 650
650 Price: $6,600+
$6,600+ Pre-Owned Price: $2,100+
Rolex took their Oyster models (first released in the 1920s) and in 1945 added the first date complication that changed “just before” midnight, rather than taking hours to turn over. (Or was “just,” as in “accurate,” depending on your interpretation.) Sounds like a simple thing, but in the 1940s, and even now, that feature was unique and convenient. The “cyclops” date magnifier was also a first on the Datejust of 1945.
The most iconic modern Datejust retains the fluted bezel of the early Oyster models, though it serves no function now. (Originally that bezel was the receiving end of a tool that unscrewed the bezel ring to release the crystal from the mid-case. Today, that bezel is integrated into the mid case, and the fluting is purely decorative.) Combined with the cyclops, these visual cues say “Rolex” more loudly than any other features on any other model, including the Submariner and the Daytona.
Neither too sporty, nor too dressy, the Datejust is the perfect solution for the person seeking one watch to do it all. Robust, ready for water and shocks and all kinds of abuse, but dressy enough to go to a wedding or funeral, the Datejust is a midcentury classic that remains the centerpiece of Rolex’s catalog. Essential, iconic, perpetually in vogue, a Datejust might be the only watch you’ll ever require.
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Day-Date
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Current Variations: 168
168 Price: $33,150+
$33,150+ Pre-Owned Price: $8,900+
In 1965, Rolex offered a version of their Datejust with the day of the week boldly displayed in an arced aperture at the top of the dial. It also came on a newly designed five-link bracelet that glimmered in the lowest of lighting. Few would have expected these slight modifications to a 20-year-old model to have become the chosen watch of multiple presidents of the USA — JFK and Regan among them — but that’s what happened.
Now nicknamed “The President,” the Day-Date is the other most recognizable Rolex after the Datejust, and no dressy Celini or any other model seems capable of outshining it, literally and figuratively. As such, the Day-Date is always on offer in an array of sizes and with enough precious metals and diamonds to cross that thin line into gaudiness. (Indeed, it’s only available in precious metals.) But a stock, unadorned Day-Date remains one of the classiest watches on the market, a sign of sophistication and good taste.
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Pearlmaster
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Current Variations: 4
4 Price: On request
On request Pre-Owned Price: $11,000+
These are Datejusts with lots of jewels on them, and often with mother of pearl dials. It’s hard to know why Rolex decided to separate the Pearlmaster out from the Datejust, but we sense that this was an archaic gendering move meant to set aside a sector of Datejusts for women only. Released along with the all-gold Yachtmaster in 1992, the Pearlmaster saw Rolex serving up watches to an increasingly ostentatious world community that wanted to signal its wealth in an international language. (Rolex spoke that language quite clearly.) As such, there’s not too much to say about the Pearlmaster, other than that they’re typically very schmancy and pretty easy to find at retail.
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Sky-Dweller
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Current Variations: 24
24 Price: $14,800+
$14,800+ Pre-Owned Price: $18,500+
The year 2012 saw Rolex release the Sky-Dweller to a very mixed response. Some hate how it looks quite vehemently, which makes it a bit of a rebel choice, while others applauded the mechanical accomplishment.
What distinguishes the Sky-Dweller is, indeed, the brilliant movement inside. This is a full-on annual calendar (displaying months, but not years), and it uses a truly clever mechanism and display: The months are indicated by a tiny aperture that turns red at each of the 12 markers around the dial, while the date is in the traditional position at 3-o’clock. A 24-hour GMT indicator is located on the ring above 6-o’clock, which is the most divisive visual feature of the Sky-Dweller.
But what truly distinguishes this movement is that the bezel works as a selector for whatever function you’re looking to set via the crown: One rotates the bezel to any of seven positions and uses the crown to adjust the affiliated function. Sounds tricky, but after one try it’s entirely intuitive. A brilliant design, and quite unique.
It’s also 42mm across, which is on the larger side for a Rolex, but for those who want their watch to leap off their wrist, the Sky-Dweller is a perfect choice.
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Cellini
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Current Variations: 20
20 Price: $15,200+
$15,200+ Pre-Owned Price: $2,200+
Historically, Rolex hasn’t been a big dress watch company, but, ironically, it’s in their dressy Cellini collection that the brand has been the most daring stylistically. It’s almost as if the Cellini line exists as an aesthetic playground for Rolex, though that was more true during the 1970s when seemingly every shape known to geometry was tried and abandoned on an annual basis.
Today’s Cellinis are lovely dress watches, styled in that 1930s way that still marks the main offerings from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. What sets the Cellini collection apart from those high rolling Swiss brands, however, is the decidedly lower prices of these watches. Rolex makes no pretense to hand-building their watches, and as such the Cellini line represents a reasonable entry point into the world of high-end Swiss dress watches.
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