Steal Vs. Splurge High-Climbing White-Dial Sport Watches From Rolex And Timex
While you could buy 34 – yes, thirty-four – examples of the Timex for the list price of the Explorer II, only one of these two watches has a waiting list, and demand for the Explorer II has arguably never been higher. Luxury watches are expensive, sure, but with Rolex, it’s a somewhat more complicated story. Yes, they are hard to buy and mass-produced, but the brand has become a short-hand for quality. Heck, you might even describe the product as … superlative.
You do get some tangible benefits – like the in-house 3285 movement with a true GMT complication, a much higher-end bracelet (with Easylink extension), and elements like Rolex’s Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring, and COSC certification – but a good slice of the price is wrapped up in everything that comes with being a Rolex, and history would suggest it’s not at all a terrible way to spend your money.
Reference Points A Comprehensive Collector’s Guide To The Rolex Explorer I
“A WATCH FOR THE NEW ELIZABETHAN AGE”
Nineteen fifty-three wasn’t just the year in which Rolex launched the Explorer, it was also the coronation year of Queen Elizabeth II, the monarch still reigning over the United Kingdom some 69 years later.
A Rolex advertisement from the time places the Explorer in this historical context while speaking of special Arctic oils used to lubricate the all-new go-anywhere watch. “The Rolex ‘Explorer’ will function perfectly under water to depths of at least 300 ft. and, in the air, to the fantastic height of 12 miles.” As if that wasn’t enough, the ad further boasts of the watch being up to the task of going to uranium mines and atomic energy plants.
Thanks to Ad Patina for sharing photographs of adverts with us for this Reference Points article and video.
Reference Points A Comprehensive Collector’s Guide To The Rolex Explorer I
“A WATCH FOR THE NEW ELIZABETHAN AGE”
Nineteen fifty-three wasn’t just the year in which Rolex launched the Explorer, it was also the coronation year of Queen Elizabeth II, the monarch still reigning over the United Kingdom some 69 years later.
A Rolex advertisement from the time places the Explorer in this historical context while speaking of special Arctic oils used to lubricate the all-new go-anywhere watch. “The Rolex ‘Explorer’ will function perfectly under water to depths of at least 300 ft. and, in the air, to the fantastic height of 12 miles.” As if that wasn’t enough, the ad further boasts of the watch being up to the task of going to uranium mines and atomic energy plants.
Thanks to Ad Patina for sharing photographs of adverts with us for this Reference Points article and video.
Hands-On The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570, In Both Polar And Black
The 226570 doesn’t see a diameter change like the Sub did and its lug-to-lug is also the same, but it does have a narrower tapering of the lugs (material was taken from the inside) and a slightly wider Oyster bracelet nestled in between. That bracelet is now 22mm at its widest points rather than 21mm. The relationship between the wider bracelet and narrower lugs provides what looks and feels like a more elegant transition, amplifying the fact that while the 42mm Explorer II has always been big, it’s certainly no bruiser. It rides low and stable on the wrist, delivering a legible interface befitting a watch intended to be used in low-light conditions for extended periods of time. Is it a supple cuff that invites sartorial comparisons a la the Bulgari Octo Finissimo? No. But it’s hardly bulky for 42mm.
Hands-On The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570, In Both Polar And Black
The 226570 doesn’t see a diameter change like the Sub did and its lug-to-lug is also the same, but it does have a narrower tapering of the lugs (material was taken from the inside) and a slightly wider Oyster bracelet nestled in between. That bracelet is now 22mm at its widest points rather than 21mm. The relationship between the wider bracelet and narrower lugs provides what looks and feels like a more elegant transition, amplifying the fact that while the 42mm Explorer II has always been big, it’s certainly no bruiser. It rides low and stable on the wrist, delivering a legible interface befitting a watch intended to be used in low-light conditions for extended periods of time. Is it a supple cuff that invites sartorial comparisons a la the Bulgari Octo Finissimo? No. But it’s hardly bulky for 42mm.
A Brief History of the Rolex Explorer II: How the Adventurer’s Watch Has Evolved
Rolex’s dedicated adventure watch, the Explorer, traces its origins back to mountain climbing in 1953. In 1971, however, another watch joined the collection with the name Explorer II and a quite different set of features, looks, size and purpose. Rather than for scaling peaks, the original Explorer II was intended for plumbing the depths of caves.
A 24-hour hand and bezel were meant to keep the likes of spelunkers or arctic explorers oriented when it might be easy to lose track of whether it’s day or night. Although it looked like a GMT watch with its prominent, arrow-shaped fourth hand and the steel bezel, it functioned differently: Unlike, say, on the Rolex GMT Master, the bezel was fixed (non-rotating) and the 24-hour hand couldn’t be set separately from the main time (though this changed in later versions).
There have been five Explorer II iterations to date. The very first reference looked and functioned a bit differently than the modern variation, but the Rolex Explorer II that’s well known today was more or less established in 1985. The differences between the models have sometimes been subtle and other times significant, so here’s a breakdown of how this iconic watch has evolved over the decades.
1971: Reference 1655
Courtesy
The first Explorer II established several of the key features that have shown continuity through the variations, but it’s also the most distinct compared to later versions. The steel 24-hour bezel and brightly colored 24-hour hand have characterized the line, but the reference 1655 had a blocky hands and indices with a kind of military look that would later be replaced by more familiar Rolex design elements.
Bonus trivia: Though this model is sometimes called “the Steve McQueen,” there’s no known connection between this watch and the actor better known for wearing certain other watches.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Cal. 1575 automatic
Lume: Tritium
SHOP PRE-OWNED
1985: Reference 16550
Courtesy
Suddenly, in 1985, something much closer to the Rolex Explorer II we know today was born: Its size increased from 39mm to 40mm, it was outfitted with the unmistakably Rolex Mercedes hand set and dial, it received a sapphire crystal — and it got a new movement and a white-dial version. With changes big and small, this was a totally new watch in multiple ways.
The new movement made the 24-hour hand separately adjustable from the main time — meaning it could be set to display a second time zone (or used for the current time zone as originally intended, of course). That made it a true GMT watch, though the bezel remained fixed (as it still does). This helped differentiate it functionally from the GMT Master II within Rolex’s lineup, and the white dial version did the same. The black and white (“Polar”) dials have remained the available options to this day.
It’s also notable that the bright orange 24-hour hand was toned down: now it only featured a red stem — but don’t worry, the fully orange hand would come back in a later generation. A wider bezel further added to the watch’s bolder size and presence.
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Cal. 3085 automatic GMT
Lume: Tritium
SHOP PRE-OWNED
1989: Reference 16570
Courtesy
1989 saw the Explorer II get a new reference number and only very slight updates. It received a new movement, the cal. 3185, though later models of the same reference used the very similar cal. 3186. On the white dial “Polar Explorer,” the hour markers were now outlined in starkly contrasting black rather than white gold as was the case previously — and the result is visually pretty striking.
The lume used on this reference was also updated over time — first it used tritium, followed by LumiNova and finally, Super-LumiNova.
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Cal. 3185 automatic GMT; cal. 3186 automatic GMT
Lume: Tritium; LumiNova; Super-LumiNova
SHOP PRE-OWNED
2011: Reference 216570
Courtesy
This is essentially the Rolex Explorer II we have today. Its case size now measured 42mm, and the all-orange 24-hour hand of the original 1971 model was back. It looks refined all around, but the increase in size was always going to be controversial. The dial was now illuminated with Rolex’s own Chromalight material, providing a minty blue glow, and the watch’s rehaut engraved with a repeating “ROLEX.”
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Cal. 3187 automatic GMT
Lume: Chromalight
SHOP PRE-OWNED
2021: Reference 226570
Courtesy
For the watch’s 50th birthday in 2021, the brand stuck to its winning formula and gave the current-generation Explorer II a new reference number and some general upgrades. The size, the functionality and the look are all more or less unchanged. What’s new are the latest Rolex movement, the latest Rolex lume (an “optimized Chromalight display”) and bracelet, and a marginally thinner case. Rolex changed only what it felt could be improved upon, because that’s how the company rolls.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Cal. 3285 automatic GMT
Lume: Chromalight
LEARN MORE
This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io
A Brief History of the Rolex Explorer II: How the Adventurer’s Watch Has Evolved
Rolex’s dedicated adventure watch, the Explorer, traces its origins back to mountain climbing in 1953. In 1971, however, another watch joined the collection with the name Explorer II and a quite different set of features, looks, size and purpose. Rather than for scaling peaks, the original Explorer II was intended for plumbing the depths of caves.
A 24-hour hand and bezel were meant to keep the likes of spelunkers or arctic explorers oriented when it might be easy to lose track of whether it’s day or night. Although it looked like a GMT watch with its prominent, arrow-shaped fourth hand and the steel bezel, it functioned differently: Unlike, say, on the Rolex GMT Master, the bezel was fixed (non-rotating) and the 24-hour hand couldn’t be set separately from the main time (though this changed in later versions).
There have been five Explorer II iterations to date. The very first reference looked and functioned a bit differently than the modern variation, but the Rolex Explorer II that’s well known today was more or less established in 1985. The differences between the models have sometimes been subtle and other times significant, so here’s a breakdown of how this iconic watch has evolved over the decades.
1971: Reference 1655
Courtesy
The first Explorer II established several of the key features that have shown continuity through the variations, but it’s also the most distinct compared to later versions. The steel 24-hour bezel and brightly colored 24-hour hand have characterized the line, but the reference 1655 had a blocky hands and indices with a kind of military look that would later be replaced by more familiar Rolex design elements.
Bonus trivia: Though this model is sometimes called “the Steve McQueen,” there’s no known connection between this watch and the actor better known for wearing certain other watches.
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Cal. 1575 automatic
Lume: Tritium
SHOP PRE-OWNED
1985: Reference 16550
Courtesy
Suddenly, in 1985, something much closer to the Rolex Explorer II we know today was born: Its size increased from 39mm to 40mm, it was outfitted with the unmistakably Rolex Mercedes hand set and dial, it received a sapphire crystal — and it got a new movement and a white-dial version. With changes big and small, this was a totally new watch in multiple ways.
The new movement made the 24-hour hand separately adjustable from the main time — meaning it could be set to display a second time zone (or used for the current time zone as originally intended, of course). That made it a true GMT watch, though the bezel remained fixed (as it still does). This helped differentiate it functionally from the GMT Master II within Rolex’s lineup, and the white dial version did the same. The black and white (“Polar”) dials have remained the available options to this day.
It’s also notable that the bright orange 24-hour hand was toned down: now it only featured a red stem — but don’t worry, the fully orange hand would come back in a later generation. A wider bezel further added to the watch’s bolder size and presence.
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Cal. 3085 automatic GMT
Lume: Tritium
SHOP PRE-OWNED
1989: Reference 16570
Courtesy
1989 saw the Explorer II get a new reference number and only very slight updates. It received a new movement, the cal. 3185, though later models of the same reference used the very similar cal. 3186. On the white dial “Polar Explorer,” the hour markers were now outlined in starkly contrasting black rather than white gold as was the case previously — and the result is visually pretty striking.
The lume used on this reference was also updated over time — first it used tritium, followed by LumiNova and finally, Super-LumiNova.
Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Cal. 3185 automatic GMT; cal. 3186 automatic GMT
Lume: Tritium; LumiNova; Super-LumiNova
SHOP PRE-OWNED
2011: Reference 216570
Courtesy
This is essentially the Rolex Explorer II we have today. Its case size now measured 42mm, and the all-orange 24-hour hand of the original 1971 model was back. It looks refined all around, but the increase in size was always going to be controversial. The dial was now illuminated with Rolex’s own Chromalight material, providing a minty blue glow, and the watch’s rehaut engraved with a repeating “ROLEX.”
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Cal. 3187 automatic GMT
Lume: Chromalight
SHOP PRE-OWNED
2021: Reference 226570
Courtesy
For the watch’s 50th birthday in 2021, the brand stuck to its winning formula and gave the current-generation Explorer II a new reference number and some general upgrades. The size, the functionality and the look are all more or less unchanged. What’s new are the latest Rolex movement, the latest Rolex lume (an “optimized Chromalight display”) and bracelet, and a marginally thinner case. Rolex changed only what it felt could be improved upon, because that’s how the company rolls.
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Cal. 3285 automatic GMT
Lume: Chromalight
LEARN MORE
This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io
Vintage Watches The 1970s Lead The Way With Rolex Sport Icons, A Lip Chronograph, and A Chopard Dual Time
This Chopard Dual Time watch is an amazing object, period. “Restrained opulence” would be the right words to describe this piece. It’s gold, it’s big, and it’s heavy (almost 100 grams!), but somehow it appears understated at the same time because of its soft, matte golden glow. I’ve talked about integrated bracelet watches from this period in the past, but the construction of this one is a direct reflection of the strengths that come from a long line of expertise in jewelry. The meticulous fine bark textured finish found throughout the case and bracelet truly come together as one; it’s so smooth and so comfortable. When the bracelet is laid out on a flat surface, it reminds me of the famous yellow brick road from The Wizard of Oz. One of the common issues with these types of bracelets is that the can become warped or small sections can slightly lift up to resembles fish scales – but this example is in pristine condition. The bracelet also appears to have remained in its entire, full length which is certainly a plus.
Introducing The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570
That would be the in-house caliber 3285, the same movement currently found in the GMT-Master II. The Explorer II and GMT-Master II used to share a movement (3186) before the brand increased the former’s size to 42mm in the last generation (resulting in the creation of the 3187 to compensate for the larger case). This movement features the best that Rolex currently offers: Chronergy escapement, 70 hours of power reserve, blue Parachrom balance spring and Paraflex shock absorbers. In short, this movement is more efficient, more accurate, more robust, and lasts longer without the need for winding.
Introducing The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570
That would be the in-house caliber 3285, the same movement currently found in the GMT-Master II. The Explorer II and GMT-Master II used to share a movement (3186) before the brand increased the former’s size to 42mm in the last generation (resulting in the creation of the 3187 to compensate for the larger case). This movement features the best that Rolex currently offers: Chronergy escapement, 70 hours of power reserve, blue Parachrom balance spring and Paraflex shock absorbers. In short, this movement is more efficient, more accurate, more robust, and lasts longer without the need for winding.
Rolex gives its iconic Explorer II a supremely confident update
Did we expect more? Progress at Rolex comes in either giant leaps or in barely perceptible steps – and usually the latter. And so it is this year. Today’s news from the giant of Swiss watchmaking, delivered at the Watches And Wonders online fair, is another case of slow and steady wins the race: the new Explorer and Explorer II models barely move the needle, but there’s no question they make sense and no question they’ll prove hugely popular.
A bit of background. The Explorer is one of Rolex’s more established models. It was introduced in 1953 and designed with input from the expedition that took Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay to the top of Mount Everest. Its function and aesthetic were all about utility, as were those of the Explorer II, which was designed for speleologists and polar explorers and followed in 1971. These were hardy, legible, reassuring watches.
In the intervening years, the form of the original Explorer has been largely consistent, right up to this latest expression, which is 36mm in diameter, just like the watch of almost seven decades ago.
The new Rolex Explorer
What isn’t the same is the new yellow Rolesor model, which merges steel and yellow gold elements to create a watch with a bigger personality than the modest case proportions would suggest. The dial is a modern confection too, black lacquered and finished with what Rolex calls a “Chromalight display”: lume-filled details that glow bright and blue in the dark. The sister model in all-steel, also 36mm (the current 39mm model is being discontinued), is the quieter of the two. Both are powered by Rolex’s class-leading Calibre 3230 automatic.
Rolex gives its iconic Explorer II a supremely confident update
Did we expect more? Progress at Rolex comes in either giant leaps or in barely perceptible steps – and usually the latter. And so it is this year. Today’s news from the giant of Swiss watchmaking, delivered at the Watches And Wonders online fair, is another case of slow and steady wins the race: the new Explorer and Explorer II models barely move the needle, but there’s no question they make sense and no question they’ll prove hugely popular.
A bit of background. The Explorer is one of Rolex’s more established models. It was introduced in 1953 and designed with input from the expedition that took Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay to the top of Mount Everest. Its function and aesthetic were all about utility, as were those of the Explorer II, which was designed for speleologists and polar explorers and followed in 1971. These were hardy, legible, reassuring watches.
In the intervening years, the form of the original Explorer has been largely consistent, right up to this latest expression, which is 36mm in diameter, just like the watch of almost seven decades ago.
The new Rolex Explorer
What isn’t the same is the new yellow Rolesor model, which merges steel and yellow gold elements to create a watch with a bigger personality than the modest case proportions would suggest. The dial is a modern confection too, black lacquered and finished with what Rolex calls a “Chromalight display”: lume-filled details that glow bright and blue in the dark. The sister model in all-steel, also 36mm (the current 39mm model is being discontinued), is the quieter of the two. Both are powered by Rolex’s class-leading Calibre 3230 automatic.