時尚迷必看展覽！日本東京「LOUIS VUITTON＆」展期資訊、5大亮點一次看

時尚迷必看展覽！日本東京「LOUIS VUITTON＆」展期資訊、5大亮點一次看

「LOUIS VUITTON＆」亮點5. 手袋、行李箱變身藝術家的畫布

路易威登與藝術家合作的最精彩篇章絕對就是Artycapucines系列！將LV的包款化為可隨身攜帶的畫布，無論是村上隆的趣味漫畫人物、Jeff Koons重新演繹的《蒙娜麗莎的微笑》，還是路易威登的經典主題（例如代表性的1896年Monogram），全部都經過重新設計和改造，這個展區呈現橫跨超過25年歲月的當代頂尖藝術家合作計畫，迄今已邀請12位藝術家讓這款手袋脫胎換骨。

【巴黎時裝週】Louis Vuitton路易威登2021秋冬女裝系列 以當代手法重現希臘羅馬黃金年代

Louis Vuitton路易威登2021秋冬女裝系列，帶領著熱愛時尚的時空旅行者用想像力披星戴月地到達希臘羅馬黃金年代，那個美學發展最巔峰的時期。不只是一趟旅程，路易威登用2021年秋冬女裝系列展開了曲折漫長的探索。創意總監Nicolas Ghesquière認為：「恆久的原則持續著，不斷引導我們，正如對立平衡，這是首見於西元前六世紀的概念，也是這個概念帶給雕像像是動態般的魅力，從此之後無數高級時裝都在重現這種魅力，也依然代表時尚中特定的風格張力。」

2021秋冬Louis Vuitton路易威登的服裝有著許多亮點，其中一眼即見的是服裝設計上身型和輪廓都偏大，非常具有份量感，特別是幾款有著金屬布料在內襯或是翻領處點綴的戶外風格機能布料外套、機車夾克、燈籠袖具有份量的抓摺、披肩風衣等等。2021秋冬系列的服裝秀展演是在巴黎羅浮宮的米開朗基羅與達魯展廳的壯觀背景中揭幕，帶著Fornasetti古老的美學形象，與美術館令人讚嘆的一系列希臘、伊特拉斯坎、羅馬雕塑之間，構築了穿越時光的美學及創意對話。模特兒穿著這些服裝走在羅浮宮時裝週現場時，就像希臘羅馬雕像的現代真人版本。而這季服裝相信也會帶動一股秋冬防寒外套的超大輪廓熱潮。

但在路易威登女裝創意總監Nicolas Ghesquière的創意與美感呈現出的卻是種種讓人驚嘆的細節，無論是設計上的巧思或是搭配組合上的創意。服裝的前衛感與前瞻性除了來自於將極古典、手工極繁複的高級訂製風格，混搭現代感的戶外男裝設計，但卻刻意選用了高級用料例如緞面、手工繡珠、雪紡、當然還有引以為傲的皮革，重新組合出2021秋冬的黃金年代，和希臘羅馬黃金年代做了巧妙且完美的呼應。

路易威登x義大利藝術設計工坊Fornasetti

現代與古典的完美聯名

由路易威登女裝創意總監Nicolas Ghesquière發起，路易威登全新聯名商品系列，探索Fornasetti豐沛的多面向創意。展示了Fornasetti自1940年Piero創辦這家工坊以來，深受藝術與設計愛好者迷戀的經典手繪圖案。2021年秋冬系列將Fornasetti與眾不同的視覺宇宙整合到多款設計中。

路易威登秋冬系列的聯名設計，主打特定的Fornasetti主題與藝術作品，由Nicolas Ghesquière和Fornasetti工坊藝術總監Barnaba Fornasetti及其團隊對話後，從Fornasetti米蘭檔案庫的13,000件檔案中選出。這些服裝與飾品，使用了豐富的色彩、質地、傳統與先進技術的結合，包括緹花、刺繡、雷射印刷，交織著Fornasetti精美描繪的世界，與Nicolas Ghesquière令人驚艷的現代設計。重點包括絲絨洋裝、閃亮的印花運動衫，上面是Fornasetti的古希臘雕塑繪畫，疊加於高科技熱感相機成像上，搖粒絨連帽外套和訂做款也是如此。超大尺寸的外套單品，則是Fornasetti以壓印為靈感的彩色版，或是鍍金版。

時尚秀的系列因為做工繁複生產不易，Louis Vuitton日後將會再推出路易威登－Fornasetti膠囊系列，這個系列主打範圍更廣的精選路易威登商品，上面繪製經典的Fornasetti圖案，例如建築、鎖、鑰匙、人像等。這些商品包括了以變形皮革製作的迷人版本Cannes包，上面有Fornosetti黑白建築素描的美麗浮凸，讓人想起文藝復興時代翡冷翠的洗禮堂，並重新加工Petite Malle，看起來就像是膨脹後，蒙上了圓頂印刷金屬皮革，創造出驚人的光學幻影。

「透過這套系列，我想使用單品，喚起Fornasetti藝術世界的持續現代感。」Nicolas Ghesquière說。「Fornasetti作品的耐久體質，體現了令人讚嘆的手繪技巧和對世界的魔幻看法，我特別受到Fornasetti重新探索與加工經典主義與古羅馬傳承的方式，為歷史形象增加了新的參考。身為一直熱愛時尚同時召喚過往、現在、未來這種能力的設計師，我想要為這種多種創意交織的物事增添新的層次。探索Fornasetti檔案庫，可說和人類學挖掘一樣刺激，尋找並發現過往的圖畫，為路易威登賦予它們新生，無論是現在或未來。」

「家父是個創新者，相信手工，和路易威登一樣。」Piero Fornasetti之子，目前擔任品牌藝術總監的Barnaba Fornasetti說。「我們的願景，一直都是將Fornasetti的獨特藝術想像力，透過做工精美的物件帶給大家，而這次再加工的聯名商品，代表了擴大、探索視覺創意的新機會。

路易威登x Fornasetti聯名，體現了兩間公司共通的實驗傳統主義精神：混合路易威登的前瞻性創意與做工，以及Fornasetti對世界魔幻有遠見的描繪。

Despite expected troubles at Champions Retreat, Clarisse Louis still finds a smile

EVANS, Ga. – Clarisse Louis spotted this reporter waiting outside the scoring area and winced.

“Oh, no,” she groaned. “Why?”

Louis had just shot the worst score of anyone in the field here at the Augusta National Women’s Amateur, an opening 16-over 88 that left her with virtually no chance of making the top-30 cut and advancing to the third and final round Saturday at Augusta National.

And yet, throughout our interview, she spoke thoughtfully. She smiled. She even laughed at times.

“It was really tough – I just wasn’t in it, from even the first hole,” she said. “I was so stressed and paralyzed. But I hope tomorrow is going to be better. I’m having fun. That’s the least I can do at the moment.”

Augusta National Women’s Amateur: Full-field scores | Full coverage

In a field full of U.S. college stars and decorated juniors, Louis is an outlier. Whereas most players geared up for this premier event while competing in top-tier college tournaments, or practicing at a state-of-the-art facility, Louis, who lives in Brussels, has had to make do in less-than-ideal circumstances.

This is her first tournament in six months, since she tied for 77th at the European Ladies Amateur Championship last September. Women’s amateur events are hard to come by normally in Europe, and they’re even more scarce in these COVID times.

Practice time has been limited, too. Courses in Belgium were closed last spring because of the virus. Louis tried to stay sharp by hitting balls into a net in her backyard, but she went three months without seeing a ball in full flight. Even when the courses reopened last May, golfers – even the top amateurs in the country – were capped at one hour of practice time per day. Gearing up for this tournament, Louis braved a snowstorm and tried to log 15 hours of practice time a week, one hour at a time, hopping on the tram from one course a half-hour away to another 45 minutes down the road.

“It’s another world,” she said. “It makes it more difficult than a lot of these girls.”

It’s worth pointing out here that Louis wasn’t a special invitee; she qualified to be among the 82 competitors at Champions Retreat. She’s a highly accomplished player, once reaching the quarterfinals of the Girls’ British Amateur and tying for third in a professional event. She won four events in 2018 and then added six more top-10 finishes in 2019, peaking at No. 46 in the World Amateur Golf Ranking and earning her an invitation to the inaugural ANWA. Though she missed the cut in 2019, she felt as though she belonged. That she was one of them. She would have qualified again last year, but the event was canceled. Still, because of her lofty world ranking at the time, she was exempt into this year’s edition.

“I’m one of the players who shouldn’t be invited if it was this year only, so I don’t know …” she said, her voice tailing off. She currently sits at No. 186 in the world, based both on inactivity and poor play. “I felt like, OK, I’ve got to do my best, but my best maybe isn’t going to be good enough.”

Having played Champions Retreat before (she missed the 36-hole cut in 2019 after rounds of 79-75), she knew what to expect. So in her limited time on the range mats, she worked to hit the ball higher, wanting to stop the ball as quickly as possible. But there is no course in Europe that could adequately prepare her for the challenge on and around these greens, which are slick, grainy and undulating.

“It’s impossible to practice that at home,” she said, which is part of the reason why she carded 12 bogeys, a double and a triple with just one birdie in her opening round. “That’s just the kind of life we live in Europe.

“I felt like, OK, let’s see what’s going to happen. I’m not as prepared as I would hope, but let’s go. Let’s go do this. Let’s go see what comes. And unfortunately, it didn’t come out the right way.”

Of course, there are worse places to have a blowup tournament. All week players are treated like royalty, with glamorous dinners in the Augusta National clubhouse and Berckmans Place, and Louis is more comfortable in those settings having befriended a few of the French players, including one of the tournament favorites, Pauline Roussin-Bouchard. Everyone in the field – even those who miss the cut – play a practice round Friday at Augusta National. Two years ago, Louis took a photo of nearly every shot she hit in the practice round. When she flipped through her camera roll a few months later, she could only laugh.

“Like, what am I going to do with this?” she said.

Now, her competitive chances all but over, she wants to set new goals at Augusta: to beat her practice-round score of 75 … and to smile more.

“It’s still amazing and I’m so lucky, and I’m going to enjoy it anyway,” she said. “That’s why I play golf – to have a smile on my face. I’m going to enjoy tonight and see what tomorrow is bringing.”