A modern take on the iconic Claddagh Ring
The Claddagh ring is one of the most iconic things ever to come out of Galway, a simple yet elegant piece of jewellery that is known the world over.
The symbolism of hands clasping a crowned heart between them is an elegant display of friendship, love, and loyalty that surpasses any simple local meaning or language barrier.
Particularly popular among the Irish diaspora that helped spread it to all the corners of the world, the Claddagh Ring, while popular at weddings, is not simply pigeonholed into one meaning of romantic love. They are used as gifts for many relationships, bonds between friends, or parent and child.
Callaghan Jewellers, who have been making Claddagh Rings as a cornerstone of their business in Buncrana for more than half a century, have seen this slice of Irish culture enjoy a surge of popularity in recent years.
Kate Callaghan, the third generation of her family in the business, says that the enduring popularity of the Claddagh Ring compared to other jewellery is that it has a connection to our culture and history that they lack, “It’s the sentiment of Ireland, it’s like a little piece of Ireland,” she explains.
One of the more recent additions Callaghans have made to their lineup of jewellery is the line of Claddagh Birthstone Rings, taking gemstones that are traditionally associated with a specific month of the year, and embedding them as the glittering heart of the ring.
This is all about personalising your gift, Kate explains, as Claddagh rings are popular gifts for milestone birthdays that will stay with a person longer than another piece of jewellery, bought for its appearance alone, might do.
“It’s something that you’re always going to have, so when you get the birthstone added to it you’ll always remember the birthday when you got it.”
One of the great things about the birthstone range is that you read as much or as little as you like into the history of the stones themselves, which come packed with traditions and layered meanings from cultures around the world.
But for their part, Callaghan’s “try to keep it as simple as possible”, and focus on the already rich cultural message of the Claddagh Ring, which is so quintessentially Irish.
The most popular month stones, for people not buying a one that corresponds to a specific date, are the rings for April, with its glittering diamond set in silver, and the green emerald May ring. “Some people just like the colour of the Irish,” Kate explains.
Claddagh Ring
The history of the Claddagh Ring stretches back to the 18th century, in the fishing village which has long since become a part of Galway City, but retained that iconic name.
In the centuries since then they have been extremely popular with the Irish diaspora that stretches across America, the UK, and half the world. The clasped hands of friendship, and the crowned heart of love and loyalty calling to mind a taste of home.
But along with visiting tourists, notably fewer in the past year and a half, they have also enjoyed a resurgence in interest from people in Ireland, some of whom are looking for a somewhat trendier choice than the simple metal ring.
Today, the Claddagh Company sells a wide range of Claddagh jewellery, not just the ever popular rings, whether plain bands or jewelled, but also necklaces, bracelets, and earrings all based around the Claddagh motif, though rings remain the most popular choice.
Jewellery has always been a business heavily associated with the brick and mortar store. Pouring over the gleaming, glittering prizes beneath glass casings in a quiet store.
But in just a few short years the business has undergone a massive shift towards online retail. This was true even before COVID-19 forced a “complete 360” in running a store Kate says.
“People didn’t think that retail was going to change as much, so fast,” Kate says of the shift towards online retail. Fortunately for them the Claddagh Company was already a strong online business before the pandemic, when stores’ websites became their sole source of income.
Maintaining a strong social media presence has also been essential during the lockdowns Kate says, as “viewings went through the roof because nobody was doing anything”.
Kate would know well about the changes in people’s taste in jewellery in recent years, and the more sweeping ways in which retail itself has shifted dramatically, having been active in the family business since she was ten years old. “I was working every Christmas and holidays and all the rest, and I loved it from the get go,” Kate says, laughing.
As for the future of the family business, and its love of Claddagh jewellery? She’s firm that, “We’re not going anywhere.”
Meghan Markle wears new Logan Hollowell zodiac necklaces that pay tribute to Archie and Lilibet
Duchess Meghan’s new zodiac necklaces pay sweet tribute to Archie and Lilibet By Heather Cichowski
Duchess Meghan celebrated her 40th birthday on Aug. 4. In honour of the very special day, the Duchess of Sussex made a new virtual appearance in a video for Archewell featuring Melissa McCarthy. The mom of two looked as chic as ever as she sported two gorgeous zodiac necklaces that paid tribute to her and Prince Harry’s children, Archie and newborn Lilibet.
Meghan wore two versions of Logan Hollowell’s Constellation Necklaces ($1,785). She wore the Gemini version for Lili and the Taurus one for Archie! Lilibet was born on June 4, 2021 at Santa Barbara Cottage Hospital and the couple shared the news a few days later. Archie was born on May 6, 2019 in England.
Each one comes with an 18-inch chain. The necklaces are available in white sapphire and diamond as well as rose gold, yellow gold and white gold. They are part of a larger Constellation collection from the brand which also includes rings and earrings.
“The Zodiac necklaces in my collection are made here in Los Angeles with conflict-free diamonds and 100% recycled gold,” Logan Hollowell said in a statement. “Each is designed with the intention that its wearer feels more connected to their true self and reminded that they are on their divine path.”
PHOTOS: Happy birthday, Duchess Meghan! See her 40 greatest fashion moments in honour of her 40th birthday
The sentimental necklaces were on full display because the duchess wore her raven mane swept back into a bun. She was outfitted in a cream knitted dress and had a coordinating topper draped over her shoulders for warmth. She rounded out the look with what seems to be her copper Manolo Blahnik pumps.
It appears the video was shot in the Duke and Duchess of Sussex’s Montecito home because the desk is filled with personal photos. It was part of Archewell’s new 40x40 initiative which is a global project to encourage people around the world to commit to giving 40 minutes of their time to support women going back to work. Furthermore, the couple’s beagle, Guy, appears on a dog bed sound asleep next to her!
The now-40-year-old asked 40 people in her life to donate 40 minutes to help mentor women reentering the workforce.
MORE: Duchess Meghan makes her first appearance since welcoming baby Lilibet to encourage fans to get involved in special initiative
“With my 40th lap around the sun in mind, it made me wonder: what would happen if we all committed 40 minutes to helping someone else or to mentoring someone in need?” the Duchess of Sussex said in a post on the Archewell website about the concept. “And then what would happen if we asked our friends to do the same?”
Meghan has previously worn a Suetables zodiac necklace with Archie and Prince Harry’s star signs.
Duchess Kate is also a fan of jewelry that pays tribute to her and Prince William’s children, Prince George, Princess Charlotte and Prince Louis. The Duchess of Cambridge recently sported Daniella Draper’s Gold Fixed Alphabet Necklace ($875) during her and William’s tour of Scotland.
If you love zodiac jewelry, like Meghan and Kate, and are after similar constellation necklaces, there are a variety of options whether you want to get one in tribute to yourself, a partner, pet or little one.
Peoples Jewellers has a range of gold, silver, rose gold, diamond and cubic zirconia zodiac constellation necklaces. The 0.04 CT. T.W. Diamond Scorpio Constellation Bezel-Set Necklace in 10K Gold ($349) is an online exclusive that is just like Meghan’s!
No matter your zodiac sign, Sterling Forever has a necklace for you in silver or gold finishes with its ‘When Stars Align’ Constellation Necklace ($69). The affordable pick features cubic zirconia stones and a 16-inch chain with two-inch extender.
For those who love customized pieces, Etsy’s Potionnumber9 shop has the Constellation Necklace (from $43) featuring cubic zirconia. The local shop allows buyers to select from any star sign as well as multiple chain options beginning with a choker at 14 inches up to 26 inches.
Jewellery: how to make the most of ‘the new lipstick’
Magpie-like consumers have caused sales of costume jewellery to soar during the pandemic, as they shop for fun, spontaneous and inexpensive purchases.
And high street retailers are increasingly happy to provide this category by adding it to their offers. Best known for supplying Topshop’s Freedom range, independent jewellery supplier DCK Group partnered with Next in June to create the new Alea sub-brand, available online and in the retailer’s 500 UK stores. The 80-piece range retails from £6.50 for a silver-look chain ear cuff, to £35 for a 14 karat gold-plated charm necklace.
DCK Group is based in Billericay, Essex, and counts Asos, Zalando, Tesco, Boots and Matalan among its retail partners. A new range for womenswear brand Nobody’s Child launches in August. It includes 14 options of earrings, necklaces and bracelets made using recycled brass and freshwater pearls, at £20 or less, and will be stocked in the brand’s Carnaby pop-up shop and online. The business supplied Topshop’s Freedom jewellery range for more than 25 years, and has continued to do so since Asos bought the womenswear brand in February.
Kate Bryant, buying director at DCK, believes that the trend for costume jewellery has accelerated as a result of the pandemic: “When retail is tough, brands look to outsource their jewellery ranges, as jewellery is quite a specialist area to buy. It has a different supply base from clothing and a wide option count, which requires a large team to run.
“In terms of the market, more and more brands seem to be looking at a multi-branded strategy to broaden their customer base. I think retailers recognise the value in brands to drive footfall and it works where you can mix branded looks on social media. Customers want to be shown how to wear the whole look, the jewellery and accessories with their outfit.”
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Rebecca Jones is senior jewellery buyer at Oliver Bonas, which has its own in-house jewellery range. It retails from £9.50 for a pair of stud earrings, to £35 for statement necklaces. It also has an affordable luxury range, starting at £12 for a pair of silver or gold-plated studs and rising to around £59.50 for a gold-plated necklace.
Oliver Bonas also has an exclusively online jewellery offering, which sells at higher price points. It launched the Flower Moon gold-plated jewellery collection in collaboration with influencer Liv Purvis launched exclusively online in June, priced at £45 for a pack of three pairs of gold-plated earrings to £95 for a gold-plated pendant necklace. Oliver Bonas does monthly drops of fashion jewellery and releases finer jewellery once every two months.
Jones explains: “Customers are buying our fine jewellery much more strongly online.” Online sales of fine jewellery have risen from 17% of the total jewellery sales two years ago to 49% this year. “Before the pandemic, consumers would buy more jewellery in store because it was tactile. People’s shopping habits have changed now.” She adds that brightly coloured costume jewellery and statement pieces have been the success story of its online jewellery sales.
Victoria Claridge, buying manager for handbags, small leathers and soft accessories at Fenwick, says sales of jewellery have been strong as consumers emerged from lockdown. The department store stocks jewellery from brands including Ralph Lauren, Vivienne Westwood, Alighieri, Crystal Haze, Anna Beck and Loverocks. Prices range from around £22 for a pair of rainbow stars drop earrings from Loverocks to vintage pieces that sell for hundreds of pounds.
Claridge says: “Vintage and antique jewellery have been hugely popular, and vintage brands such as Jennifer Gibson Jewellery have experienced substantial growth, thanks to both trend-driven demand and an increase in sustainability awareness.”
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Claridge observes a renewed interest in jewellery in lockdown: “A lot of working people are having the vast majority of their meetings online and some have changed their buying habits. People can easily update their wardrobe with a new pair of earrings or a necklace instead of clothing.”
Nikki Gewirtz, founder of jewellery brand Lola Rose, says “Through conversations with my customers, they have suggested that they are purchasing less new clothing because of the lockdown and are instead looking to re-accessorise their existing looks from 2020.” The brand is stocked by John Lewis and Fenwick, and sells direct to consumer on its website. Retail prices start at £25 for bracelets and rise to £350 for more premium pieces.
Apee Bhutani, the co-founder of women’s and men’s wear store DAY in Peckham, south-east London, tells Drapers that jewellery was one its biggest sellers throughout all three national lockdowns, alongside lingerie. It currently stocks three jewellery brands: Dansk Copenhagen, Beho Studio and Enamel Copenhagen, which she added mid-July.
Bhutani explains: “People wanted to treat themselves when they were going out. Lots of people were gifting jewellery. The price points are a bit lower [than clothing] and, when stores reopened, shoppers would come in with friends and buy rings together – they’d wear them straight out of the shop. Jewellery makes up 20%-30% of our sales – sometimes we were selling more jewellery than clothes.”
Bhutani says that getting the right mix of jewellery styles is crucial. DAY stocks Scandinavian brands such as Samsøe Samsøe and Coster Copenhagen, and so found jewellery brands to fit a similar aesthetic. Dansk pieces are minimalist, with sleek, simple designs such as drop earrings and chunky chain bracelets. Pieces are gold plated and retail prices range from £17 for a pair of earrings to £50 for necklaces.
Beho Studio is a local designer also based in Peckham, retailing at between £40 for a pair of sterling silver, gold-plated earrings to £70 for a sterling silver pendant necklace.
Bhutani brought in Enamel Copenhagen to add a touch of colour to the store’s jewellery offer, after noticing the trend. The brand offers pastel-coloured beads on minimal pieces such as fine chain necklaces, bracelets and charm earrings. Retail prices range from £35 for a pair of sterling silver, gold-plated drop earrings to £115 for a sterling silver, 18k gold-plated necklace.
Bhutani says the store has hit a “sweet spot” price-wise, but can understand other retailers’ fears about selling more expensive pieces: “If you’re selling jewellery that’s priced in the hundreds, it could get stolen – there’s a tension of how far you want to go. As long as it matches the style of your clothing, it’s fine. When people lock away jewellery [in display cases] shoppers don’t go for it. We tried both, but we keep it out and right next to us, but I can understand that its nerve wracking to have out on display.”
Estella Bartlett, an independent brand founded in 2011, is stocked in store and online by John Lewis, Liberty and Urban Outfitters, and online only at Next. Retail prices range from £20 for a mixed gold-plated and silver-plated bracelet to £50 for a gold-plated necklace.
The brand says sales for key accounts and larger retailers have risen by up to 20% in May 2021 (following the opening of “non-essential” retail in April 2021 in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland, followed by the Republic of Ireland in May), compared with the same weeks in May 2019.
Managing director Roger Latham explains: “In 2020, we only saw a small dip in sales of jewellery to retailers that had an online presence (10%-15%.)” He says gold-plated pieces dominate sales, but demand for multi-coloured pieces has also increased.
Latham believes jewellery is a good add-on for fashion retailers because it takes up very little physical space, but has strong sales and margins are good. He adds that it is also largely non-seasonal, and so does not need to be marked down for Sale periods. Estella Bartlett provides retailers with displays for the jewellery, including T-bars for necklaces. He believes that the brand’s retail price is a big selling point.
Perennial upsell
Olivia Burton, which was founded by Lesa Bennett and Jemma Fennings, in 2012 and acquired by the watch group Movodo in 2017, says that current jewellery sales have more than doubled compared with 2019 and are tracking at more than 34% compared with 2020. Stocked by John Lewis and Fenwick, it retails at between £35 for a silver ring and £85 for a silver locket necklace, although it is developing a luxury range – Olivia Burton Boutique – made from recycled silver, which will retail from £85 for a statement ring up to £140 for an interchangeable charm bracelet.
Head of creative Jane Hebden believes “jewellery is the new lipstick” – referring to the lipstick effect during economic downturns, when consumers treat themselves to smaller luxuries rather than more expensive items. During the pandemic, however, the use of face coverings has led jewellery to replace lipstick as an inexpensive and often colourful purchase, she explains: “Wearing jewellery does a lot for your mood – putting on a pair of earrings makes you feel lifted. People are still wearing sports luxe even now we are returning to socialising, but jewellery elevates the look.”
For Jan Shutt, founder of Sunday Best, a womenswear independent in Lancashire, jewellery is an obvious add-on. The store will be launching its own jewellery brand this month, and she also sells jewellery from Vivienne Westwood and Spanish brand Uno de 50.
On the day Shutt speaks to Drapers in July, she had sold five pieces retailing between £89 and £100: “The margins are great. You can find nickel-free jewellery pieces for £5 and sell them for £20. If I find something unique in Paris or Milan, I can price it however I want.” She says that the average mark-up for clothing is 2.75, while for jewellery the average is 3 to 5.
Costume jewellery is an efficient way to boost revenues, as customers browse and look for quick pick-me-ups. Retailers looking to invest in jewellery can have their pick of a growing range of brands, or invest in developing their own, whether the business is a multiple or independent. But getting the pricing and trend right is essential to capture demand for all that glitters.