Vintage Watches A 1956 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 6567, A 1960s Croton Nivada Grenchen Chronograph Aviator Sea Diver, And A 1960s Universal Genève Uni-Compax ‘Big Eye’
I’m particularly excited about the example we are offering today, because it’s from the first run of the Chronomaster that came out in the early 1960s, which featured the Venus 210 movement. These early ones say “Chronograph Aviator Sea Diver'' on the dial, yet the same model would later read “Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver,” so it’s pretty cool to play with the OG. The watch we have today is in overall beautiful, honest condition and has developed a great patina on the dial and bezel. I really love how the lume has aged on the dial and on the broad-arrow-style hands. However, the feature that sticks out to me the most is the bezel. It really looks like it lived a life – the once black bezel has gained to a greenish hue, depending on the light. Altogether, I’m a big fan of these Chronomasters; I like how they were marketed as basically a do-it-all watch, perfect for diving, flying, racing, etc. That’s where the “Aviator Sea Diver” comes into play on the dial and can come to play on your wrist if you head over to the Shop. Guillaume Laidet, a watch industry veteran, announced plans to revive the Nivada Grenchen brand last summer. Five modern Chronomasters are now available in the Shop.
Why I Bought It: Rolex Stella-Inspired Oyster Perpetual 41 With Turquoise Blue Dial
There aren’t that many rules that I apply to watch collecting, as is probably evident from the eclectic (or, less kindly, somewhat messy) assortment of watches I’ve amassed over the years and the variety of stories of how they came to be in my chosen set.
One rule that I’ve found critically important, though – and generally violated only to my regret – is that it’s crucial to handle a watch before buying it. Photos are nice, and friends’ eyewitness accounts can be helpful, but there’s nothing like building one’s own impressions of how a piece looks in the case and feels on the wrist.
Naturally, this story is about how I completely violated that rule and nonetheless came away happy with a watch that few people would have guessed I’d buy: the recently launched Oyster Perpetual 41 from Rolex with a bright turquoise blue dial.
Why – and how – I bought a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 and how it fits
In my friend Terry’s watch collection taxonomy, this one is a “fun” piece all the way – a watch that brings a smile anytime it’s on my wrist and whose price was sufficiently within my means so that I’m not constantly fretting about its value.
At the same time, it does have some aspects of a “foundational” watch as it’s a piece from a bedrock brand that can serve as a core element of a respectable collection for many years to come.
As regular readers might recall, my history with Rolex is pretty minimal; five years ago, I felt compelled to describe why I’d never owned one and then not that long thereafter why I’d bought my first, a GMT-Master II “Batman,” which I sold to a friend in early 2020. And I’d made pretty clear my concerns about the world of vintage Rolex collecting, including the popular frenzy associated with the Paul Newman Daytona model as well as my dislike for the phenomenon of false scarcity in the world of steel sport watches.
Along the way, though, I also spent a fair amount of time talking with my Rolex-loving friends about their interests in both contemporary and vintage Rolex pieces, and at auction previews had come across several examples of a whimsical line of Rolexes that really piqued my interest: the Stella lacquer-dial Day-Dates with their riotously colored dials.
One clear sign that you are falling in love with a watch is that you put it on, take it off, find an excuse to put it on again, and repeat the process until it becomes a bit embarrassing. I found myself doing this with some vintage Stellas but never quite got to the point of bidding on one as my level of ignorance of things vintage Rolex led me to be cautious.
That’s not to mention that the hammer prices for excellent examples were also fairly astronomical, especially for a “fun” watch: witness the CHF 200,000 price paid for a yellow gold, yellow dial Stella at Phillips last year.
Fast forward to September 1, 2020, when Rolex announced its new watches for 2020. My recollection, now backed up by reading articles and viewing YouTube posts from that day, was that the vast majority of attention was drawn to the re-launch of the slightly reprofiled Submariner, with much less notice (and, in many quarters, negative reactions) to the 36 mm and 41 mm Oyster Perpetual variants with brightly colored lacquered dials.
Where some self-professed Rolex authorities saw “imitation Nomos dials,” I saw what is now much more commonly accepted: a tip of the hat to the vintage Stella watches and an opportunity for fans of that look to get into the game in a much more affordable way.
After bouncing the idea off a couple of pals and asking for opinions on the 36-vs-41 debate, that night I wrote to a local Rolex authorized dealer asking for a 41 mm in turquoise blue – and found to my surprise that I was number one on the waiting list. The rest, as they say, is history.
Why I love my Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41
The core appeal of this watch to me is that it is similar and different at the same time. Similar enough to the vivid appearance of the vintage Stella pieces to be firmly rooted in the brand’s traditions, but at the same time different from both the vast sea of Rolex watches made every year and from other pieces in my collection.
I’ve included links to a couple of in-depth articles on the vintage Stella line at the end of this article and won’t repeat its full history here, other than to note that (although different sources vary in their views) it appears that the Stella name was used in Rolex marketing materials at the time and that it most likely refers to the maker of the rich-colored lacquers used on the dials.
At least so far, Rolex is not formally using the Stella name for the new Oyster Perpetual collection, so I’ll refer to them as Stella inspired or “Stella” pieces.
For me, the variations on an historical theme really work as the modernization of the new pieces, which I’d call subtle but which some Rolex purists see as radical, gives an appeal that I think a literal re-edition of the original Stella pieces would have lacked.
To start, while I fully appreciate that some folks prefer the 36 mm size, I find the 41 mm works extremely well both physically and visually on my medium-sized wrist given the way the case band curves and the bracelet drops smoothly away from the lugs.
The fairly broad, curved bezel keeps the visual size of the colored dial from being overwhelming, and the choice of the smaller Twinlock crown (as opposed to the chunkier Triplock on the GMT-Master II) adds to the harmonious look without sacrificing water resistance unduly.
I also quite like another design element that caused no shortage of wailing and gnashing of teeth among the Rolescenti: the use of (wait for it) double batons at 3, 6, and 9.
I shouldn’t make too much fun as I’m sure there are visual cues on watches from my favorite brands that I’d complain about if changed; but then again, as friend and super watch sleuth Nick Gould pointed out in a post, double markers have appeared on certain Rolex models since the 1950s, including many examples of the Oyster Perpetual Reference 6567.
The double batons at 6 o’clock are visible in the image above along with a couple of other bits that I appreciate about this watch: the “secret” signature and the “Superlative Chronometer” indication of timekeeping performance.
Like the single-bar code on the winding crown that signifies a Twinlock steel case, the laser-etched Rolex crown you can just barely see between the batons and the printed black crown is one of those “inside baseball” items that makes learning about watches fun.
And as a fan of good timekeeping, I applaud that Rolex now specifies that its fully cased-up watches are certified to a tolerance of minus to plus two seconds per day, making the use of the term “Superlative” more than marketing fluff.
In everyday use with my personal wearing pattern, my watch has consistently run at plus three, which is well within my desired margin of being able to wear a watch from Monday through Friday without having to adjust the position of the hands.
The Oyster bracelet is both solid and comfortable, and (note to A. Lange & Söhne) the rounded link profiles don’t present any jarring edges to see as the bracelet curves around the wrist.
While the provided Oysterclasp lacks the Oysterlock safety device and Oysterglide micro-adjustment mechanism (somehow I’ve now lost my appetite for oysters, but that’s a different matter), it is extendable by 5 mm by using the Easylink incorporated into the clasp, which does help with fit on warm or cold days.
On the wrist, the Oyster Perpetual is as legible as it is striking; I really can’t fault the quality of the hands and indices in catching and throwing the light and presenting a crisp appearance.
The blue-hued Chromalight lume on hands and markers also passes muster, both in throwing a prodigious amount of light and complementing the blue color of the dial in dim light conditions when both are visible.
And perhaps some of the Rolex aficionados can enlighten me (pun intended): does the lume actually cast light from the underside of the hands as well or is that a reflection from the crystal?
My online searches didn’t yield any information and I quit waving my UV light around to test this question just prior to causing permanent vision damage.
Is it right for you?
For me and for my collection, this watch – purchased at its retail price – is a great addition. I also feel that it’s a winner for Rolex from a business perspective, enabling the brand to turn a somewhat unappreciated entry-level watch line into one of the hot commodities of the year. It might be just the thing for you if:
Like me, the lacquered “Stella” look and accompanying lore appeal to you.
Your personal style extends to wearing bright colors and accents.
This watch is at an accessible price point for you and you think it’s more fun than other “fun” watches you might buy.
You appreciate the robust quality and good timekeeping that is front and center with Rolex.
You have a good enough relationship with your authorized dealer to get an allocation at this point.
On the other hand, you might pass if:
You have a yacht moored off Capri or a mansion in the Hamptons and can full well afford an original vintage Stella.
Rolex tradition or no, you see these bright dials as a gimmick (remember, the original Stellas did not sell well at the time they were launched in the 1970s).
You just aren’t drawn to Rolex as a brand given its scale.
Parting thoughts
In my eclectic watch box, the Oyster Perpetual 41 fits right in: witness the quick shot below of my set of “steel sport” pieces, ranging across brands and decades.
I’m also not bashful about wearing bright colors, and for me the turquoise of the Oyster Perpetual 41 is a great complement for some of the pieces of Native jewelry that I wear on a daily basis (more about those, by the way, in an upcoming article).
And from a photographer’s perspective, this watch is a treat: its legibility to the eye translates into ease of shooting, and the combination of brushed finishes, lacquer dial, and curved bright surfaces reduce issues with blown-out highlights and unwanted reflections.
Is the Oyster Perpetual 41 a long-term keeper for me or will it move to another loving home at some point? Time will tell!
For more information on the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, please visit www.rolex.com/watches/oyster-perpetual.
For more on vintage Rolex Stella watches see www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/the-colourful-world-of-rolex-stella-dials and/or www.watchtime.me/life-style/vintage/article/1410/a-brief-history-of-rolex-stella-dial-timepieces.
Quick Facts Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41
Case: 41 mm, steel with monobloc middle case, screwed-down crown and solid case back; sapphire crystal front crystal; waterproof to 100 m
Dial: Stella-style lacquer dials in yellow, green, turquoise blue, and coral red; metallic dials in bright black, bright blue, and silver; applied gold batons and crown logo; printed indices and markings; batons, hour, and minute hands with luminous blue Chromalight
Movement: automatic Caliber 3230, 70-hour power reserve; 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency; precision +/- 2 seconds per day after casing
Functions: hours, minutes, (hacking) seconds
Price: $5,900 / €5,500
Remark: five-year warranty
You may also enjoy:
Great Rolex Experiment With The GMT Master II Or How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Love The Crown
Why I’ve Never Owned A Rolex – And Why I Might Yet (Update: I Do Now!)
Why I Pimped My Rolex
Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video: Warning, Don’t Try This At Home
Rolex 2020年新款手錶售價這裡看！勞力士水鬼Submariner全面升級與蠔式Oyster Perpetual彩色面盤，你選哪一款？
Rolex勞力士2020年新款報到！Oyster Perpetual 36mm一口氣推出五種粉嫩鮮豔面盤色，實用又時髦的 Submariner「水鬼」全面升級搭載新機芯、加大尺寸與全新配色，往下看要買哪一款！
by Kate Tu - 15 SEP 2020 更新
Text/Kate Poto/Kate、Rolex
手錶迷最期待的Rolex勞力士新款，因應新冠肺炎疫情防疫措施，在2020年破天荒跳過瑞士巴塞爾鐘錶展Baselworld發表會，直接於今年九月份於全球同步曝光/開賣。以下就直接來看今年Rolex勞力士重點新款手錶：
Rolex Oyster perpetual 勞力士蠔式恆動系列手錶
功能與設計特色與1926年問世的首款防水蠔式腕錶一脈相承，計時精確度與防水性不用多說之外，外觀呈現也延續品牌一貫的簡潔與實用，剛剛好的尺寸與中性的風格，也讓系列總為入手第一款勞力士的不出錯首選！2020年最新一代的Oyster Perpetual系列有兩種錶殼尺寸—41與36mm，41耐看優雅，36則推出寶寶藍、粉、珊瑚橘紅、鵝黃、勞力士綠五種色彩面盤。
價格：
勞力士蠔式恆動系列Oyster Perpetual 36mm，NT185,000
勞力士蠔式恆動系列Oyster Perpetual 41mm，NT195,500
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31勞力士蠔式恆動日誌型手錶
系列最初在1945年問世，是世上首款在「3點鐘位置設日曆窗的自動上鍊防水天文台認證」腕錶，集結勞力士當時的重要創新發明，表圈外圈也有多種變化，如拋光、三角坑紋、鑲鑽、圓拱形，是相當具有品牌精髓與風格的款式。2020年共推出四款新手錶：一款鑲嵌46顆圓鑽錶圈外圈、茄紫色太陽光線效果錶面及鑲鑽羅馬數字VI；其他三款分別搭配薄荷綠色太陽光線效果錶面、白色漆面錶面或深灰色太陽光線效果錶面，搭配三角坑紋錶圈外圈。指針、整點時標及羅馬數字均為白K金。
價格：
勞力士蠔式恆動日誌型手錶Datejust 31mm，NT258,000～NT533,000
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner勞力士蠔式恒動潛航者型手錶（搭載全新3230型機芯）
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date勞力士蠔式恒動潛航者日曆型手錶
魔鬼藏在細節裡，這一句老生常談的真理完全在勞力士手錶作品中得到印證！一點小小的更動，呈現的比例與效果就有所不同，如何決定都是功力所在，身為細節控、手錶控如你，一起來看2020年全新設計細節，首先要提到的是錶殼增大至41mm，錶耳錶鍊的曲線弧度與長寬厚薄接皆有所微調，配色與面盤上字體、品牌logo圖騰等細節變化也都是值得注意的重點。Submariner鋼款搭配黑色錶面，外圈配同色Cerachrom 陶質字圈。Submariner Date分別為鋼款搭配黑色錶面及綠色字圈、黃金鋼款搭配皇家藍色錶面及藍色字圈、白金款搭配黑色錶面及藍色字圈。
價格：
勞力士蠔式恒動潛航者型手錶，NT268,000
勞力士蠔式恒動潛航者日曆型手錶Submariner Date， NT317,000～NT1,317,000
延伸閱讀：