2021鐘錶與奇蹟 / Watches and Wonders Geneva 4月7日線上開展

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玩錶誌 00:00 2021鐘錶與奇蹟 / Watches and Wonders Geneva 4月7日線上開展文／KC 來源／Watches and Wonders Geneva

本年度鐘錶品牌參展數量最多、規模最大的「線上錶展」Watches and Wonders Geneva 2021（鐘錶與奇蹟日內瓦高級鐘錶展）即將在4月7日（瑞士時間7：00、台灣時間13：00）線上開展！

繼一月份路威酩軒集團（LVMH Group）舉辦之第二屆LVMH Watch Week成為本年度第一個線上錶展後，前身為日內瓦高級鐘錶展（SIHH），在2020年更名為Watches and Wonders Geneva（鐘錶與奇蹟），因疫情原因更為線上錶展，2021年在Rolex、Tudor、Chopard 、Chanel等眾多「聲明脫離」巴塞爾鐘錶展品牌後，如今在參展品牌數，蔚為歷年來最多——共計38個，展期相較往年也延長了，從4月7日至13日；緊跟在後是Watches and Wonders Shanghai將在上海舉辦的「實體」錶展，目前得知有19個品牌參加，主因是考量中國市場。不過若以全球性來看，4月7日首發的W&W 2021，是錶壇2021年最重要的大件事。

然而，錶展未開，各家暗自較勁，多個品牌（如BVLGARI、Hublot、Roger Dubuis、Vacheron Constantin）已透過實體鑑賞或台灣/亞太區、瑞士總部連線的方式，舉辦媒體預覽，搶先曝光數只錶款。

也有品牌在此錶展前後另覓日期，舉辦全球新品線上發表會，例如3月份的Omega、Audemars Piguet、比照去年時間舉辦的Seiko，即將在今日（台灣時間20：00、17：00）登場的Breitling與Swatch等等。

而從W&W Instagram所蒐集得到（已經可以曝光）的訊息，部分品牌已藉由官方釋出的影音，預告年度主題。

Vacheron Constantin，星際和海洋的探索

2021鐘錶與奇蹟首場「錶展」新品呈現由世界第二古老錶廠江詩丹頓開講。3月中瑞士總部與亞太區已進行媒體預覽，曝光的錶不多，然而重點之一必定包括年初就已預告、今年要過100周年慶的Historiques American 21。另外從預告片也能看出，本年度新品將是關於星際和海洋的探索，

Panerai，There Is No Planet B

以軍錶起家的沛納海，在官方Instagram已釋出多支以大海、游魚為拍攝主題的預告片，關鍵句如「Do you want to be part of the solution?」「There Is No Planet B」已經點出今年年度重點之一，與生態環境緊緊扣連！

Louis Vuitton

精品龍頭Louis Vuitton將在錶展推出Tambour Carpe Diem（拉丁語格言，活在當下），結合高級製錶和西方藝術史、宗教、美學、靜物畫探討的Vanitas（虛空）主題。

Ulysse Nardin，Vertical Odyssey

工程師性格的雅典表，每年錶展的策展都分外令人期待。與其說是新品發表，雅典表都將現場當作藝術策展一樣，從主題定調、裝置、錶款、關鍵字都操作得非常立體而鮮明。相當神祕的預告片，Odyssey（奧迪賽）扣連雅典表近年積極樹造、取經荷馬史詩「奧狄賽」，年度主題加了vertical字眼，場景從海洋、星球、寰宇，看來跟「探索」很有關係。

Louis Moinet，Eight Marvels of the World

創建年份相當年輕、實則名字相當有歷史紀念意義的Louis Moinet（法國製錶師，1768～1853，發明計時裝置），預告影片由Jean-Marie Schaller穿上太空裝出演預告片，錶展將推出〈世界八大奇觀〉為題的新作。

Swatch：Time is what you make of it

Swatch自3月25日在全球釋出的新形象廣告與標語，Time is what you make of it（時間由你造就）寓意人如其「時」，人們藉由時間創造回憶，讓生活變得充滿意義，是對這兩年疫情影響之下，人與自己、人與人之間建立關係的回應。

2021鐘錶與奇蹟（38個品牌）線上開展後，4月14日將移師到上海實體舉辦（19個品牌）。

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Watches and Wonders 2021 opens today – FHH Journal

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This was no small challenge and yet here it is. Today, watchesandwonders.com becomes reality for the 38 prestigious brands taking part and for fans of watchmaking excellence worldwide. Nor does it end there, as the organiser, Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), explains: “Watches and Wonders has evolved into a comprehensive hub that encompasses brands, retailers, end customers, media and strategic distribution partners such as Net-A-Porter, Mr Porter and Alibaba’s Tmall Luxury Pavilion in China,” adding that “special campaigns featuring exclusive content will coincide with the Geneva and Shanghai events to engage audiences beyond the traditional watchmaking sphere.”

This will be a packed week, for sure. Presentations by the brands of their newest releases will undoubtedly be one of the highlights, but not the only one. Chats with brand ambassadors, CEO keynotes, guided tours of the Manufactures and virtual parties are all on the agenda, either on watchesandwonders.com or by connecting to the different brand websites. The organisers have plenty of content lined up too, not least a Morning Show that goes out live every day with all the latest news from the fair, alongside panels where thought leaders and experts debate themes of interest to the industry.

All change Barely two years ago, who could have predicted that watch fairs would undergo such a radical transformation? Basel – the industry’s biggest showcase which in its heyday drew in excess of a thousand Swiss and international names – saw exhibitor numbers decline. Swatch Group and its brands were first to jump ship at a time when a large part of the industry was questioning whether trade fairs were still the most effective solution in a digital world ruled by social media. At the same time, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) was planning its next move. After welcoming independents within its walls, the Salon was preparing to test a new formula that would take the fair into Geneva. Rebranded Watches and Wonders, this was to be a convivial event, geared more towards the general public. Alas, the global pandemic drained the blood from Basel and pulled the rug on Geneva.

HODINKEE Radio Watches & Wonders 2021 First Look – Rolex & Tudor

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So for the first of our daily Watches & Wonders First Look podcasts, I got Ben and Jack into the virtual studio to hash out all the new releases from both Rolex and Tudor. We get into what we think about each of the big drops (like this and this), what we’ve learned about Rolex and Tudor as a result of today’s news, and what surprised us each the most. Did anyone have money on a two-tone Explorer I (and a 36mm version, no less)? Absolutely not. Who was betting on Tudor dropping a pair of precious metal dive watches with sapphire casebacks? Anyone?

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