【新錶2021】Explorer II換機芯、Daytona隕石面！勞力士新錶速寫
【新錶2021】Explorer II換機芯、Daytona隕石面！勞力士新錶速寫
勞力士在官網釋出的影片，大家都已經猜出今年的重點會放Explorer II探險家二號上面，沒想到Explorer探險家一號也跟著推新款。Explorer出了半金並換上去年剛推的新機芯3230、Explorer II也一如預測換上3285機芯，Daytona則加入隕石面共推出三種材質，是發表之初的三大亮點。另外Datejust 36綠色棕櫚葉面盤、和以勞力士坑紋錶圈為圖樣的金色錶面，還有多彩滿鑽的Day-Date 36、以及Lady-Datejust全鑽版，也都是今年的新作。
- Oyster Perpetual Explorer
Oyster Perpetual Explorer｜錶徑36mm，建議售價NT$ 359,000
原本大家都鎖定在Explorer II探二，沒想到Explorer探一也改款推出半金款式，36mm的錶徑和1953年的原型款一樣尺寸，是比較小的錶徑。配上優化的Chromalight夜光顯示，而且還換上去年剛推出的3230機芯，除了半金之外當然也有不鏽鋼款式。
- Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
Oyster Perpetual Explorer II｜錶徑42mm，建議售價NT$ 282,000
今年是Explorer II探二的五十周年，一如之前大家所推測的，換上了3285型機芯，同樣具有優化的Chromalight夜光顯示時標，錶殼和錶帶也做了調整，依然有黑、白兩色面盤，尺寸一樣維持在42mm，細節做了調整，只是外型上看起來差異不大。
- Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona｜錶徑40mm，建議售價NT$ 1,452,000（左）、1,132,500（中）、1,362,500（右）
繼之前的GMT-Master II之後，Daytona今年也出了隕石面，材質則都是貴金屬，有白金、黃金和永恒玫瑰金三種材質，搭載的仍然是Daytona御用的4130機芯。
- Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36
Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36，建議售價NT$ 233,500（左）、386,500（右）
Datejust 36這次的面盤紋飾反而是滿有亮點的改款，三款棕櫚葉面盤分別是綠色、銀色和金色，還有一款是金色坑紋圖案的錶面。金屬面盤由鋅、鎳、鉻、鈦、矽等成分組成，再進行加工程序。而除了綠色棕櫚葉面版本是不鏽鋼之外，其他三款都是半金的組合，搭載的是2018年開始用在Datejust的3235機芯。
- Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36
Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36，建議售價電洽
Day-Date 36延續去年OP款大玩顏色的模式，推出酒紅色、綠松石藍和珊瑚橘三色琺瑯時標搭配同色錶帶，加上滿鑽的面盤和錶殼，雖然華麗但因為色澤很繽紛，褪去了成熟感反而有種年輕活力的調調。
- Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust
Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust｜錶徑28mm，建議售價電洽
Lady-Datejust這次是黃金材質搭上滿鑽的設計，連元首帶亦滿佈鑽石，經特殊黑色處理的黃金材質羅馬數字時標，質感也很加乘。搭載勞力士用在小尺寸錶徑的女錶機芯2236，具備專利Syloxi矽游絲，從2015年首次用在這個系列至今。
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勞力士ROLEX新品大公開！寶石、特殊面盤 探險啟程！
2021年「鐘表與奇蹟」表展於4月7日台北時間下午兩點「線上」開展，勞力士（ROLEX）後發制人選則在晚上六點以輕巧的十分鐘，輕快介紹完蠔式恒動探險家型I（Oyster Perpetual Explorer）、蠔式恒動探險家型II（Oyster Perpetual Explorer II）、日誌型36（Datejust 36）、宇宙計型迪通拿（Cosmograph Daytona）、鑲嵌寶石款的蠔式恒動星期日曆型36（Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36），以及一只新款蠔式恒動女裝日誌型（Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust）鑲鑽款。合計六個型號13款腕表，勞力士再將年度定調為「探險」、「設計表面」與「寶石女表」三大感性主軸，明快聚焦，也打破傳統的功能性導向分類思維。
一如本報日前根據勞力士官方instagram帳號預測，蠔式恒動探險家型I（Oyster Perpetual Explorer）與蠔式恒動探險家型II（Oyster Perpetual Explorer II）果然在今日現身，其中俗稱「探險家一號」的Oyster Perpetual Explorer腕表以黃金鋼搭配黑色表面，而Oyster Perpetual Explorer II則依循過往精鋼、白色面盤、橘色指針的醒目印象，共同聚焦於山岳冒險精神。
四款日誌型36（Datejust 36）腕表與三款宇宙計型迪通拿（Cosmograph Daytona）腕表，則罕見以「表面設計別具一格」的副標題「湊作伙」；前者以實戴取向、後者則反應勞力士與賽車、計時碼表的輝煌歷史與淵源，棕櫚葉、三角坑紋、金屬隕石，也紛紛「爬」上勞力士重要的時間舞台。勞力士在精密、複雜、可靠、新材質研發的造詣從未曾讓人懷疑，但如今品牌少見將「視覺」當表款訴求，或也反應新世代了對美、強調個性存在的直觀追求。
Rolex Explorer 36 Watch Returns To Its Original Size, Gets New Generation Movement
Today, Rolex is presenting its new-generation Rolex Explorer 36 – in its full name the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 36. With that reduced diameter it returns to the size of the original model launched in 1953 following the first ascent to the summit of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on 29 May that year. The retro-sized exterior comes in two versions while inside it all lives the latest generation Rolex 3230 caliber.
Currently only two versions are available of the Rolex Explorer 36, one in all-steel that Rolex neglected to share at least one image of in its press debut – but it exists on the brand’s website –, and another in Yellow Rolesor, which is Rolex-speak for a two-tone mix of stainless steel and 18kt yellow gold. Although a watch that has “mastered the extreme frontiers of exploration,” Rolex has recently doubled down on offering its rugged watches in this arguably more brittle combination of steel and gold. Just think of the Sea-Dweller 43 Rolesor that we reviewed here, that sure has caused a bit of a squabble among fellow watch enthusiasts.
Advertising Message
As the tiny crown between SWISS and MADE at 6 o’clock on the dial indicates, 2021’s Rolex Explorer 36 has the latest, 32xx-generation movement inside. Watches with 31xx-generation movements do not have the small crown there. The 3230 is the movement that powers the Oyster Perpetual models that we debuted last year here, as well as the new “No Date” Submariner. The Rolex Manufacture Calibre 3230 is a self-winding movement that brings 70 hours of power reserve to the Explorer 36, combined with Rolex’s -2/+2 second accuracy rating, as well as an official COSC chronometer certification.
The case is the typical Oyster case affair with polished, steep case profiles, combined with brushed upper surfaces – a pattern that continues onto the three-link Oyster bracelet, the only bracelet option currently available for the Explorer 36. The bezel, crown and bracelet center links are in 18kt yellow gold, as are the hands and applied hour markers. The clasp is a folding Oysterlock with the 5mm Easylink comfort extension link built in – we do wish it came with the Glidelock system instead that allows for a more gradual adjustment of the bracelet length.
For many years now we have been saying the end of the large watch trend is near and that more of the major brands will begin to offer “downsized,” i.e. more classically proportioned variations of their models. While Rolex wasn’t exactly spearheading the large watch trend – talk about an understatement –, they seem to be more on the ball this time. The Rolex Explorer 39mm was updated back in 2016 and we reviewed it here, but now the Explorer goes back to its roots and is offered as a 36mm option.
Advertising Message
The dial can only be black on either the all-steel or the Yellow Rolesor version of the Explorer 36. The luminous paint applied to the hour markers and hands is Rolex’s blue Chromalight – an update that debuted on the Explorer 39mm when it received the properly sized minute hand in 2016, which we linked to above. The Explorer, and especially in its original size, is certainly not the ideal canvas for getting too creative with colors and patterns… But it would have been nice to see some other options right from the debut of this Rolex Explorer 36.
Price for the 2021 Rolex Explorer 36 in steel is $6,450 USD, while price for the two-tone Rolex Explorer 36 Yellow Rolesor is $10,800 USD. References are Rolex 124270 and Rolex 124273 respectively. You can learn more at the brand’s website here.