Gucci成立100週年,佛羅倫斯《Gucci Garden Archetypes原典》展覽絕美登場!回顧創意總監Alessandro Michele的想像之旅
從東京到洛杉磯,從「北方靈魂樂」到「五月風暴」,神話中的方舟建造者、星際探險家、馬匹、舞者、天使和異形都在展覽上湧現,代表著Alessandro Michele萬花筒般的視野和浩瀚的探索之旅。《Gucci Garden Archetypes原典》展覽深入探究Gucci形象廣告中精采紛呈、來自音樂、藝術、旅行和流行文化的多元靈感。
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「我認為,這前六年的冒險十分精彩,我們邀請並陪伴人們穿越異想、敘事、驚喜、輝煌。因此,我創造了一個投射形象廣告中情緒的遊樂場,而它們正是通往我意象世界的捷徑,」擔任展覽策展人的Alessandro Michele說道。
原型是所有副本的原始形態,永遠都是獨一無二的;而每個Gucci形象廣告都在訴說獨特而不可複製的時刻,展現每個系列的精神,同時體現創意總監Alessandro Michele包容、自由、前衛的理念。
尖端技術、精製手工和創新的室內設計打造出各異的沉浸式空間。由Archivio Personale執行設計,該設計工作室將Alessandro Michele的願景轉化為敘事空間,投射並深化了他的獨特美學,回顧了Alessandro Michele上任以來,為GUCCI帶來的美學風格。
操控中心
參觀者通過一個類似幕後的操控中心進入,首先映入他們眼簾的是待參觀展覽的多屏螢幕即時畫面。步入其中,主題空間和過道組成網路結構,將15支Gucci形象廣告的繽紛世界帶入現實。
Gucci美妝系列
「大膽、明亮、美麗」的口紅廣告以多個螢幕炫麗呈現,參觀者可從多個角度觀賞龐克歌手Dani Miller著名的、顛覆美妝常規的微笑鏡頭。
Gucci Bloom
鮮花天堂,這是一座隱蔽的異想花園,三位主演形象廣告的演員在這裡擁抱自由,她們分別是演員Dakota Johnson,女性主義藝術家及攝影師Petra Collins以及跨性別模特兒Hari Nef。魅力非凡的三人掙脫了傳統,共同開啟了Alessandro Michele為現代女性美學設想的全新包容性願景。
致敬黑人文化
展覽其中一個房間,利用環形投影打造出身歷其境的氛圍,觀眾仿佛在「舞池」裡與2017年早秋時裝秀的舞者一同熱舞,舞池中心擺放了開創性的全黑人舞者模特兒,「以此致敬黑人文化的優雅」Alessandro Michele這麼說。這個形象廣告呼應了:黑人社群在時尚界能展現更好更強的聲量。
「五月風暴」50周年
2018年早秋系列恰逢「五月風暴」50周年,通過連接空間兩層的塗鴉樓梯致敬了巴黎青年。在2018年春夏,跨領域藝術家Ignasi Monreal通過將近900個小時的努力,創作了一幅覆蓋牆壁和天花板的巨大手繪壁畫。
東京之旅
另一處展覽空間,有超過150,000個閃耀亮片鋪滿牆壁,對2016年秋冬廣告進行了炫目重塑,開啟另一次東京之旅。
外太空之旅
博物館風格的透視畫則引領進入2017年秋冬形象廣告中的外太空之旅,與生物、異形和探險者相遇。
更多展區空間
1 2018年秋冬形象廣告的迷人元素佈滿整個空間,從地板到天花板,參觀者放眼望去皆是放置著數千隻蝴蝶標本、數百座咕咕鐘、彩色假髮和運動鞋的展示架。 2 參觀者可看到80年代風格的夜總會廁所,這是因為2016年春夏形象廣告是以柏林為背景;也可以看到2020年早春系列形象廣告中「世紀派對」展現的壯闊現代風格別墅。 3 參觀者還可以進入一個鏡面迷宮,進入像2016年早春系列形象廣告展現的莊嚴宅邸。或是體驗2019年早春系列形象廣告呈現的史詩般方舟建造,開啟令人歎為觀止的旅行。 4 或乘坐2015年秋冬系列形象廣告中呈現的洛杉磯地鐵,那是Alessandro Michele設計的第一個Gucci系列作品。
以下跟著VOGUE一起前往佛羅倫斯,透過這些美到像畫的展區空間美照,回顧創意總監Alessandro Michele上任後所帶來的絕美風暴,同時歡慶GUCCI的100週年到來。
Introducing Gucci Garden Archetypes, A Multimedia Exhibition Celebrating The House’s 100th Anniversary
Adding on to its 100th-anniversary festivities, Gucci unveiled the Gucci Garden Archetypes, an immersive multimedia experience at the Gucci Garden in Florence. This comes after the launch of the Aria collection last month and the announcement of its next fashion show in Los Angeles as part of its centennial celebrations. The exhibition features mythical ark-builders, intergalactic explorers, horses, dancers, angels and aliens all making an experience in this exploration of creative director Alessandro Michele’s kaleidoscopic vision.
This almost out-of-the-world experience shouldn’t come as a surprise as Michele has a knack for eccentricity which is recently seen when from the Gucci x Balenciaga “hacking lab”. And with the pandemic, fashion brands are thinking of much more creative ways to maintain or even draw in followers.
With Gucci Garden Archetypes, they present a recreation of 15 of the brand’s most impactful advertising campaigns under Michele’s wing during his six and a half year tenure at the Italian fashion house. It delves into the multifarious inspirations from the music, art, travel and pop culture spheres that resonate through Gucci’s campaigns.
See also: Gucci’s Next Fashion Show Will Be In Los Angeles As Part Of Centenary Celebrations
Inside the New Gucci Garden Archetypes Exhibition Celebrating the Brand’s 100th Birthday
A lavish birthday bash is in order for a brand turning 100, but don’t expect anything obvious from Gucci. Glossy coffee table tomes and lofty archival retrospectives are not of interest to Alessandro Michele. The Gucci creative director operates on obsessions and idiosyncrasies. To kick off the company’s centennial festivities, Michele released his Aria collection last month. It was a virtuosic display, merging updates of Tom Ford-era hits and reinterpretations of Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia looks via a new “hacking lab,” and tapping into both Gucci’s history and its knack for phoenix-like reinvention.
Now comes Archetypes, an immersive, rather wondrous multimedia experience opening today at Gucci Garden in Florence, which recreates the sets of 15 of the most conceptually adventurous and visually impactful advertising campaigns envisioned by Michele in his six and a half years at the helm of the Italian label.
At a socially-distanced press conference held on the Garden’s premises yesterday, Michele described the exhibition as “a playground of emotions.” Indeed, winding through the museum’s labyrinthine rooms, the cinematic installations give an entertaining aperçu of the designer’s unbridled imagination and narrative audacity.
As a sort of amuse-bouche, the stairs leading to the exhibition are wallpapered with hand-painted graffiti reminiscent of Michele’s pre-fall 2018 collection, “Gucci Dans Les Rues,” which was intended as an homage to the Paris riots of May 1968. Moving up to a floor-to-ceiling glass-shelved room, visitors are confronted with Michele’s many passions, represented via the fall 2018 “Gucci Collectors” campaign. A mind-spinning display features 1,400 cased butterflies, 110 period wigs on that would’ve made Marie Antoinette green with envy, 420 pairs of variously embellished sneakers, 182 cuckoo clocks, each one set to a different time, and an enormous number of stuffed toys.