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Dior make-up artist Peter Philips' ultimate guide to make-up for men
Today Kim Jones presented his Dior Autumn/Winter 2021 collection and while it was a lesson in how we should all be dressing this time next year, it was also a high-style guide to the new mood in male grooming.
Allowing the Peter Doig-inspired clothing on display do the talking, creative and image director of Christian Dior make-up Peter Philips opted for a muted look that he believes will work for any man, any time of the day, even if you’ve never worn make-up before.
We spoke to the Belgian make-up artist, who was formerly creative director of Chanel make-up before replacing Dame Pat McGrath at Dior in 2014, to find out how and why every man should be making the most of the manifold potions and paints that are on offer to them.
How did you decide on the make-up for the Dior Autumn/Winter 2021 show?
We decide the make-up based on the collection. Sometimes we’ll go conceptual, but sometimes we’ll go for a more simple palette. It’s all about a perfect balance between the clothing, make-up and hair. For this show, we wanted beautiful-looking young men with healthy complexions. We wanted great skin, plump lips with a good colour and a naturally groomed eyebrow. Once we saw Kim’s looks and silhouettes, we decided it was best to keep things natural and allow the clothing to speak.
The balance in the make-up worked with the hair, which was wet-look and at times stuck to the face. Meanwhile, a lot of the models wore berets or hats, so we thought it would be nice to have a calm point somewhere visually, rather than over-the-top conceptual make-up. It’s very simple and easy to achieve. Anyone can copy it for everyday wear.
What advice do you have for men who who would like to wear make-up, but don’t want it to be obvious?
Make-up shouldn’t be feared. It’s not a dangerous thing. The only danger is too much, which goes for both men and women, unless you want to make a statement. There are so many basic tricks that men can do to enhance their look. For me it’s about making what is already there even better. Every famous man wears make-up, whether you know it or not. That’s the power of it.
Firstly, you need to make sure your skincare regime is on fleek, that your skin is moisturised and well hydrated. If you have facial hair or sideburns make sure they’re well groomed, even if you want controlled scruff.
I like to work with the unisex Dior Backstage line, as it’s lightweight and not too intimidating. I would apply a good moisturiser, then a little primer if you’re up for it, then a little foundation in your actual skin tone. You can always build up your foundation, so you don’t need to apply too much at first.
With make-up, you can sightly enhance your eyebrows. Take a brow pencil, which you can easily control, and add some hairs somewhere lacking or give your brow a more intense look if desired.
Everybody loves a good kissable lip, so scrub your lips regularly so that the dead skin has gone and hydrate them with a balm. This alone feels good and looks fantastic.
Curling the eyelashes – not wearing mascara – to open up the eyes without looking made-up or overtly feminine is an easy trick too.
How would you suggest men use concealer?
Firstly, your skincare needs to be sorted. Use an under-eye cream to ensure the skin there is smooth. If you have dark circles from not sleeping enough or you smoke, use a concealer that is half a shade lighter than your skin tone and blend in with your fingers. I would not start straight away with colour-correcting products as this can be tricky and they can be visible in neon light or even sunlight, so tone-on-tone corrections is the best.
How do you tend to eyebrows?
The perfect shape for you depends on the natural shape of your eyebrows. This is rule number one. A lot of men go to salons and have their eyebrows plucked or bladed to get a new shape, which can sometimes work. But you need to be careful with arched eyebrows, as they teeter on the edge of being too feminine.
I always like to enhance the natural eyebrow shape. If you have fair eyebrows, just add a little dark colour, but follow that arch. If you have dark eyebrows, maybe pluck a little. I don’t think the unibrow is a problem, but some people pluck that away. Find the right balance and make them look groomed, but not too much.
How do you ensure make-up stays in place?
A good primer always helps. Your foundation should be long-lasting – Dior’s Forever Foundation is great. Apply it thinly and you’ll have a natural-looking effect that should last for up to 24 hours, which you’ll never actually require. And then set it with a little sheer powder with a brush. Not much, as you don’t want it to look powdery, but just a little, as this will help the make-up to set. There are of course fixing mist sprays, which help make-up to stay in place, but for me powder is fine.
What are your top three must-have products?
Dior Backstage Face & Body Foundation is an essential. It is easy to apply, buildable and there are 40 shades, so there’s something for almost everyone. Dior’s latest rouge lip balm has a new formula made with 95 per cent natural origin ingredients, which comes in refillable packaging, so it’s eco-friendly. I also recommend Dior’s 24-Hour Hydration Clay, as it’s not too shiny and has a beautiful satin finish. It works perfectly with the Face & Body Foundation.
What is your number one rule with regards to wearing make-up?
It’s important to know how to apply make-up, but also how to take it off. It’s vital for the condition of your skin and your lashes that your make-up removal routine is as controlled as your make-up application.
Black heads on your nose need to be taken care of before you wear make-up. Use a scrub or a mask and then wash your face with ice-cold water so the pores close. After this, give your skin time to rest so the natural oils become active again. It’s best to do this on a Sunday morning or in the evening when you don’t see anybody. This will enhance your complexion and make applying make-up easier.
Do you have any advice for men with skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema?
I recommend Dior’s Forever Skin Correct Concealer for anyone with irritated skin. It is a beautiful product with an elastic formula, which makes it feel like a second skin. You can apply it to the entire face, like a face filter, or sheer. It has more body than a foundation.
Psoriasis and eczema are dry skin conditions. When you apply foundation, one part of the skin may look darker is there’s a dry patch, so I would use tinted moisturisers that aren’t too thick and will keep the skin hydrated. Each skin condition reacts differently, so it’s a tricky one to use make-up with.
Below are the products you need.
Backstage Face & Body Foundation by Dior, £29.50. dior.com
Forever Skin Correct by Dior, £25. dior.com
Show Brow Styler by Dior, £22. dior.com
Lip balm by Dior, £32. dior.com
Backstage Face & Body Primer by Dior, £27.50. dior.com
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