Club Kids Revisited With Peter Philips

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This feature appears in V131 now available for purchase

Makeup master Peter Philips came to play, reuniting with longtime collaborator, Willy Vanderperre with unrestrained gestures of color and animated lines with shades of Rouge Dior. This story comes alive with a familiar playfulness as seen the “The Fourth Sex” of V’s issue 0 which catapulted their careers in 1999. Nine personalities, nine looks in nine Rouge Dior reds—matte, satin, velvet, and metallic—inspire us to color outside the lines. Especially as we emerge from a COVID coma this summer with the urge to rave. And if you need convincing to let your freak flag fly, Philips is stern to “stay within the lines. When it’s time, you will know it.” After all, makeup should add to your character. You should always recognize yourself in your own reflection.

“It was such an honor to work with Peter Philips. Working with him felt like watching an artist at work, but you are the canvas and the muse at the same time. There were so many different, vibrant colors [used], which is not usually my thing, so that also made the experience special.” —Metta Irebe

See below for an exclusive interview with Peter Philips:

V Magazine: Hey Peter! How are you?

Peter Philips: I’m good. How are you?

V: I’m good. So nice to meet you.

PP: Nice to meet you too.

V: When I saw the story, I was like, “wow!” It kind of brought me back to issue 0. We’ve been in this sort of COVID coma and to see a [beauty] story like this…it was just a breath of fresh air. What was your inspiration for this story? What was the reference?

PP: Club Kids Revisited!

“I’ve worked with Peter [Philips] a few times and I always know he’s going to pull a major look. When you work with someone like him, who’s the best of the best, it makes my job super exciting because I get to see myself transformed into a character he’s dreamed up. And then I get to channel that on set.” —Lulu Tenney

V: Ah, Club Kids Revisited. I love it! Was there a hero product that you used throughout the story to create the looks?

PP: Throughout the whole story I [utilized] Rouge Dior lipstick. For me, the common thread was the Rouge Dior lipstick and [building from] that, I constructed the [looks] using each model’s personality as inspiration.

V: So many vibrant colors were used but the red lips in particular stood out for me. I have to ask what’s your favorite tone of Red?

PP: Because it’s one of our icons, automatically, I’m going to say Rouge 999. (Laughs)

V: I had a feeling you were going to say that. (Laughs)

PP: But honestly, every color of red that was made by nature is fantastic. Like a red feather of a bird, a red flower or even [red] sand. It’s so much more than just a color, it’s a texture and it’s created like that. There is no human involvement there, which kind of makes it amazing. Those natural reds are the best ones, and we always try to copy them, we always try to approach them to apply to ourselves, you know? [Whether] it’s fabric, lipstick or eye shadow. But in essence, nothing is as beautiful as the truly natural thing, because it comes from nature.

“Beauty is the way I am able to cherish myself, but also [it’s something] that can give an added boost of confidence. I definitely see makeup as an art form because it can be transformative and a form of expression.” —Kayako Higuchi

V: That’s very true. I love that! What’s your favorite story that you’ve done for us? From issue 0 to “Club Kids Revisited” in this issue?

PP: Now you’ve caught me by surprise with this one. I’m always very proud to work for the magazine because I think it’s an amazing platform. You can show your creativity and it’s always been very diverse. It’s a very beautiful platform, not just as a makeup artist but as a photographer, a hairdresser, a stylist, because it’s a playground.

V: V truly is a place where creatives from all corners of the industry can come together to make magic.

PP: Exactly! I once did an entire issue with Inez & Vinoodh. It was the alphabet [themed] issue, which was cut from three or four days of shooting. Models were coming in and out, then we shot a lot of still lifes combined with fashion. There was extreme makeup and also very simple makeup. That experience was so amazing. But the thrill of seeing my makeup in issue 0 is probably one of my favorite memories. The thrill, that excitement, it was just at the beginning of my career. It means a lot to have been a part of something that became huge. I didn’t know in those days that V was going to be this big, you know?

“I think makeup is an important way of self-expression these days. [Wearing makeup] in my daily life, is sometimes still a boundary for me in this heteronormative society. That’s also why makeup is so important these days, because it sends a message. As I looked in the mirror, I felt liberated and confident.” —Lennert de Lathauwer

V: When you were working on issue 0, and painting on that Mickey Mouse, in that moment, did you feel like, okay, this is going to be a big moment? Did you think; this will change everything for me?

PP: I don’t think we knew it was going to end up being V. But at some point, while on set, I said “Okay, guys I would like to [try] something.” I think we had an hour and a half of daylight left to shoot that day. So, I didn’t tell them I was going to paint the Mickey Mouse, because they would have said “Oh no, we’re going to lose time [for that].” I worked up [the nerve to do this] in the kitchen, and then I just took the [model] into the kitchen and locked [everyone] out. Once I finished everyone was like, “Oh, we didn’t expect that,” and they were like, “It’s kind of amazing, it’s cool.” Once we started shooting that was when I knew it was going to be a great image. I didn’t know it was going to be published. When I actually saw it for the first time, it was the most exciting thing.

V: Wow, such a beautiful story behind such an iconic image.

PP: The image took on a life of its own and It kind of became more important over the years. The moment itself, it was just a great experience. But over the years it became more important because the image is so powerful, it really stood for something.

“Makeup is definitely a form of artistic expression that’s not only very personal but also alive in a sense. There’s something really beautiful to be said about how a makeup look can both embody and influence one’s attitude and energy, yet at the end of the day or night it comes off. I think there’s a certain sense of comfort in the rebirth of that cycle.” —Sophie Koella

“At the beginning, I didn’t know what to expect but [once Peter finished], I really liked how the look turned out. It was a great experience to see it all come together. I didn’t recognize myself, but I liked that the look was completely different from my usual look.”—Jesse Spruit

‘This [beauty] look was right up my alley. I love to play around with theatre makeup. Especially over-the-top looks, like putting on white paint with fake blood or lots of glitter. The entire experience was magicial.” —Steinberg

This feature appears in V131 now available for purchase

Iris Law: ‘I’ve been brought up with morals for life’

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Iris Law has undergone a transformation. I arrive at the end of her ES Magazine beauty shoot with Dior in east London expecting to see the cherubically pretty, sweet-looking girl I follow on Instagram (along with about half a million others). Instead I’m greeted with a firm hug by a confident, no-nonsense woman with an icy blonde, freshly shaven head.

Hair, as we know, is everything and this metamorphosis is carefully planned. With her 21st birthday a few months away, the model is coming into her own. ‘I was super ready,’ she says about going under the clippers. ‘I’d been thinking about it for months and flattening my hair down to see the shape of my head. It felt really right and instantly like it was me. It was really liberating. My dad, my mum, my boyfriend… were like, “Do it, do it now, you’ll never do it again.”’

Her mum and dad, of course, are Jude Law and Sadie Frost, king and queen of the notorious Primrose Hill set of whose glamorous party lifestyles the tabloids couldn’t get enough in the 1990s. Growing up in a famously bohemian family and surrounded by creatives (the Gallaghers, Pearl Lowe, Jonny Lee Miller were all in the gang), it’s little wonder Law has followed her family into the limelight, but she is adamant it wasn’t an obvious choice. ‘No one pushed me into this [industry] because I was always very academic and focused on school,’ she says. ‘But I’m so lucky to have such amazing people to look up to who I know and can ask for advice. If there’s anything I’m doing that’s new, my parents have done before, they’re always a phone call away. It’s been really great to get some insight.’

Dior Forever Skin Glow Foundation, £39; Backstage Face and Body Glow, £28.50; Diorshow 24H Stylo Waterproof Eyeliner in Matte Green, £22.50; Mono Couleur Couture Eyeshadow in Denim, £27.50; Mono Couleur Couture Eyeshadow in Lucky Clover, £27.50; Stick Glow in Golden Haze, £30; Forever Natural Bronze Bronzing Powder in Soft Bronze, £40; Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil in Rosewood, £29.50; Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara in Black, £29 (all dior.com) DIOR jumpsuit, £6,400 (dior.com) / Aidan Zamiri

Law also goes to godmother Kate Moss for modelling tips (she gamely demonstrates one by pressing her tongue against the roof of her mouth for a more defined jawline — ‘Look! It works, but you can’t breathe’) and ‘talks a lot’ to Stella McCartney. ‘She’s amazing and has a lot of advice for me.’ Law is currently studying textiles at Central Saint Martins and has set her sights on one day designing a collection with McCartney. ‘Hopefully we’ll end up working together. There’s no one better at sustainability than her. She’s my dream girl boss.’

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At 20, Law’s list of achievements in the fashion world is impressive. Bagging her first modelling gig in 2015 for east London-based label Illustrated People, she has gone on to front campaigns for Marc Jacobs, Loewe, Stella McCartney and La Perla, and is now thrilled to be a Dior beauty ambassador. ‘I’ve always loved expressing myself. At first with fashion when I was younger because I didn’t wear make-up and then as I got older I found make-up as a new way. I enjoy doing things not to be beautiful but as a form of expression. With my make-up and my clothes, I love clashing colours and being boisterous.’ Her cosmetics-bag favourite is Dior’s Lip Glow. ‘I’ve bought one for all my friends. It’s so glossy and smells delicious.’

Dior Forever Skin Glow Foundation, £39; Forever Skin Correct Concealer, £27; Forever Cushion Powder in Lavender, £45; Backstage Rosy Glow in Pink, £29.50; Forever Natural Bronze Bronzing Powder in Soft Bronze, £40; Mono Couleur Couture Eyeshadow in Pearl Star, £27.50; Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil in Raspberry, £29.50; Rouge Dior Lipstick in Rouge Orange Matte finish, £32 (all dior.com) JW ANDERSON dress, £1,350 (jwanderson.com) / Aidan Zamiri

Just before the pandemic took hold, Law made her runway debut for Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week AW20 alongside her friend and fellow celebrity progeny, Kaia Gerber (daughter of Cindy Crawford). She texted Gerber for advice on how to master a catwalk strut — not that it helped steady her nerves. ‘I swear to God, everything I practised went out the window,’ she laughs. ‘My legs were buckling as my feet hit the floor. I was so nervous. My legs were actually shivering, but it was so amazing and I felt great. That was my dream come true.’

Dior Forever Skin Glow Foundation, £39; Forever Skin Correct Concealer, £27; Backstage Face and Body Powder-No-Powder, £29.50; Forever Cushion Powder in Lavender, £45; Forever Natural Bronze Bronzing Powder in Soft Bronze, £40; Stick Glow in Golden Haze, £30; Diorshow 24H Stylo Waterproof Eyeliner in Matte Purple, £22.50; Dior Addict Stellar Shine in Bohémienne, £31; Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil in Raspberry, £29.50; Mono Couleur Couture Eyeshadow in Pearl Star, £27.50; Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow in Power, £27.50 (all dior.com). 16 ARLINGTON top, £448, at matchesfashion.com / Aidan Zamiri

Next, Law will turn her focus to acting. She is in the middle of filming Pistol, a six-part series directed by Danny Boyle about the punk scene based on Steve Jones’ 2018 memoir Lonely Boy: Tales From A Sex Pistol. Starring alongside a cast of bright young things — Talulah Riley as Vivienne Westwood, Louis Partridge as Sid Vicious and Maisie Williams as model Jordan Mooney — Law plays punk rock icon Soo Catwoman. The experience has ‘definitely changed my life’, she says, and is the reason she went for the chop. ‘I was so in awe of those women who pioneered female punk and it made me want to shave my head.’

Known among her friends (Moss’s daughter Lila is her best mate) as being hyper-sensible (‘I’m a homebody’ and ‘a Scrooge with money’), Law relished the chance to behave badly. ‘Having to do justice to the movement and being rowdy pushed me to places I never would have gone before.’ The day before our interview she was filming, she says, and had a taste of what it’s like to be on the outside. ‘We were all in our costumes and people looked offended. People looked like they were going to call the police because we looked so rowdy and aggressive. It’s interesting,’ she muses, ‘for once in my life having people looking at me going, “What the f*** is she wearing?”’

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD dress, £990 (viviennewestwood.com). BULGARI earrings, £4,940 (bulgari.com) / Aidan Zamiri

Law is determined to continue with acting and is taking classes, but it is her dad she goes to for help. ‘I tape [auditions] with my dad. He gives me great tips. But more generally I’ve been brought up with morals, not necessarily to do with acting but for life. I’ve always been told to be polite, to be on time, to be attentive, to work really hard.’

What’s the ultimate goal? ‘I know that at the rate I’m working, I’m going to need to narrow it down at some point because I want to be the best at whatever I decide. But I’m only 20, so right now I’m going to carry on doing it all.’

Photographs by Aidan Zamiri

Beauty Direction by Joanna Taylor

Make-up by Anne Sophie Costa

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